Thermalright Thermal Pad 12.8 W/mK, 85x45x1mm, Non Conductive Heat Resistance, Extreme Odyssey Silicone Thermal Pads for PC Laptop Heatsink/GPU/CPU/LED Cooler (1mm)
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This would result in an air gap, which would make heat transfer more difficult. Simply purchase pads with a thickness of 2 mm.
The thickness of the original pads must be measured. Get a digital caliper to help you with this. A cheap plastic one will suffice, and I believe you should use thermal paste rather than a pad for your CPU.
Yes, a variety of sizes, ranging from 1mm to 2mm, will be required. Opening up a card and measuring the existing pads is a great way to find out, as I've seen manufacturers change the pad specs for the exact same model of card. Sooner or later, you must bite the bullet. Simply keep track of where each screw and plug goes, and proceed with caution.
85x45mm is the size of the pad. You cut it down to your desired size.
Selected User Reviews For Thermalright Thermal Pad 12.8 W/mK, 85x45x1mm, Non Conductive Heat Resistance, Extreme Odyssey Silicone Thermal Pads for PC Laptop Heatsink/GPU/CPU/LED Cooler (1mm)
For more information on the RTX 3080 FE re-release, see the images below. pad/re- br>br>RESULTS: br>br>paste. br>br>br>br>br br>PRIOR TO: 195W, -, -, -, -, -, -, -, - AFTER (conservative and cool): 1000 mem, 50c core, 96c mem, 79 MH/sbr>AFTER (conservative and cool): 1000 mem, 50c core, 96c mem, 79 MH/sbr> br>FRONT (core GPU die) SIDE: 195W, 1000 mem, 50c core, 82c mem, 86 MH/sbr>AFTER (aggressive, less cool)br>208W, 1000 mem, 55c core, 88c mem, 97 MH/sbr>br>AFTER (aggressive, less cool)br>208W, 1000 mem, 55c core, 88c br>Use one 2mm pack. You only have room for one mistake if you cut carefully. This side's AFTER image was left out, but I literally just did a 1: There will only be one replacement of the stock pads, no more and no less. For this side, place the pads directly on the plate, where they will rest as you lower the board onto them. Squish them down a little more evenly so they're safe inside. It's in the right spot and won't move. A 5-point scale was used. Dot thermal grease pattern on the die, leftover Kryonaut maybe 6 months old, did NOT spread, though I might recommend it for others because the way you lower the board onto the pads is angled, which may push more compound towards one side of the die. Having said that, I'm happy with my 5-star results. make a dot in the middle and at the corners. BACK SIDE: br>br>FRONT SIDE: br>br>BACK SIDE: br>b br>Use one 3mm pack. Cut carefully; if you run out, it's not a big deal; just make sure you've covered all of the stock pad replacement areas before moving on to the extra/optional areas. This side is less important in general because there are so few ICs and, I believe, no memory ICs, but the more heat-generating components you cover, the better. Instead of using the plate on this side, you'll place the pads directly on the board components. This is done again to ensure that the part you're lowering doesn't have any floating pads that could move or fall during installation. br>br>GENERAL INFORMATION: br>To safely scrape off the old thermal pads, I used a thermal paste spreader/spudger. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol along with paper tower pieces to wipe off old thermal paste. I didn't bother removing adhesive from the old thermal pads themselves. Sorry for not taking an AFTER picture of the front/core side, but if you're confused, remember that I replaced the stock pad coverage EXACTLY, so look at the stock photo and imagine the gray pads there instead of the crummy white stock stuff. On the back, I think 2mm would be fine, but I went with 3mm and smushed them down like others had suggested. If you want to try 2mm for front and back, there is a much larger sheet of this product available. For the same price, you can get nearly double the material, but it's all 2mm. Make sure to include a review with your results if you do this. br>br>Good luck, and buy with confidence; if you're diligent and do it right, these will work for you. It took me about 2 hours to complete. 3 hours, the majority of which was spent carefully cutting down the pads to size.
I installed them on a MSI Trio 3080 because it was pinning the ram at 110C (83MH/s while mining) when doing anything, but especially mining, which I'm doing to help recoup some of the card's costs. Before, it was pinning the ram at 110C (83MH/s while mining) with a negative 500 MHz on the memory and full fan speed. This is unacceptably bad. My temperatures dropped to 80C after about 15 minutes of mining with the fan speed at 70% following the reapplication with the fan speed at 70% following the reapplication with the fan speed at 70%% And this is with a core speed of 1500 MHz and a mining rate of 102 MH/s. The vram thermal pads are mounted on a metal plate that is screwed to the cold plate on this card. Thermal compound is applied to the underside of the metal plate to aid in heat transfer to the heat sink, but four of the chips did not have any. As a result, it's possible that's why my temperatures plummeted. Regardless, I am extremely pleased with the results and would recommend them to anyone. Just make sure you get enough, as it is quite small, but it was more than enough for my 3080 with a little extra.
The MSI RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio now has less RAM overheating. This was purchased to help cool the GDDR6X memory on my MSI RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio, which was reaching 110 degrees Celsius (WAY TOO HOT). br>br>Installation went smoothly, and my RAM temperatures have dropped to 96-degrees Fahrenheit. 98C Max. It was well worth the money, and it will undoubtedly help to extend the life of my prized graphics card!!.
I wasn't expecting this much cooling from a simple thermal pad replacement, to be honest. After replacing the front side pads with 2mm (stacked 1mm pads), the VRAM temperatures on my RTX 3080 Founders Edition dropped from 104 to 78 degrees Celsius. I believe the factory pads were not making good contact, which would explain the significant temperature drop. It was necessary to have 1 on the backplate side. To be honest, I'm not sure if the 5mm pads made any difference.
Within 10 minutes, the memory on my Gigabyte 3080 Xtreme would reach 110 degrees Celsius. br>I made two of these to replace the 2mm pad I had removed from the card, which fit perfectly. The temperature dropped from 110 degrees Fahrenheit to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. br>br>I have no idea what these companies are thinking when they put these low-quality pads in their products.
I only had one pack of 3mm and one pack of 2mm, which was insufficient to cover both the front and back. If you plan out the shapes ahead of time, two packs should suffice; otherwise, I recommend getting two thicker pad packs. br>br>In addition, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you get 2mm and 1. I saw some videos where people were using Gelid with these thicknesses, but these are different brands, and this gel is much harder and less squishy than what I bought. br> Just pay attention to the YouTube tutorials and you'll be fine. br>br>Both of mine were a tad too thick to fit in the cooler. Make sure the thin pad is on the side with the GPU die, where thermal paste must be applied, because if the pads are too thick on that side, a gap will form between the cooler and the GPU core, resulting in extremely high "hotspot" temperatures. If you bought 2mm like me, make sure you use something to press the pads down really hard until they're thin and uniform, allowing enough pressure to push the GPU core, thermal paste, and cooler together. Results: br>br> br>Before, my temperatures ranged from 104 to 106 degrees Fahrenheit. When it's 106 degrees outside and you're having a - 300 memory clockbr>Now it's 1200 memory clock and 86 degrees outside!.
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