CZH-LABS Electronics-Salon 4X Prototype Breakout PCB Shield Board Kit for Raspberry Pi 3 2 B+ A+, Breadboard DIY.
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If the heatsink height is the same as yours, that is fine
Having mounted the board on the PI, this board fit into a number of standard enclosures for the PI. Nevertheless, you need to be attentive to the height of components that you place on this board - it will determine whether the board will fit or not
The board would not be a good match for the zero, in my opinion. As far as I can tell, the description is accurate According to the company, the raspberries should be compatible with the Raspberry Pi 1 Model B+, Pi 2 Model B, Pi 3 Model B, and Pi 1 Model A+ that it may be different from the mounting configuration and the DIY board width is wider than 0mm. Although I suspect a hack focused on the pins might make it work, it is clearly not designed to be used with the Zero.
Selected User Reviews For CZH-LABS Electronics-Salon 4X Prototype Breakout PCB Shield Board Kit for Raspberry Pi 3 2 B+ A+, Breadboard DIY.
The boards themselves are made out of a nice, thick FRN, and the headers, screws, and standoffs are of decent My only wish is for the screws to be two I like the layout of the board, with the rails for both 3 sets. The length of the screws is long but they still fasten well. For safety reasons, 3 and 5v are on the other side of the board and the ground rail is on the opposite side. There is only one real problem with the pads they aren't very durable if you want to remove components or wires once they've been attached. As a result, I was able to pull up two of the four pad connections on a piece of header I had put in the wrong place while my iron was set at 400C. The pads came up easily for me, despite my age and experience in soldering. Considering how much heat I was expecting to use, I used a much smaller amount of force then I anticipated. However, if you hang on to your components the first time, you should have no problems with these boards as long as you get them positioned correctly. In addition, I can confirm that they fit perfectly when mounted on the Raspberry Pi Zero and Zero W. Additionally, the screw holes in the Zero's mounting bracket line up with the standoffs nearest to the GPIO header.
It uses the 1 AMP linear fixed regulator part. These are nice boards, but the AMS1117 part ( for the three linear fixed regulators ) makes them less efficient. There is only 1 AMP capacity for both 3 and 5 volt outputs. You can definitely pull more current from the Raspberry Pi than that, especially if you're connecting other peripherals to the USB port. Please exercise caution when using the Raspberry Pi. There needs to be more clarity on the listing regarding the seller's rating.
There's a lot of good quality on these The layout is ideal, the through holes are carefully plated, and practical design considerations are taken into account. It does have a couple of negative aspects, however. A couple of things stand out. First, the GP24 is not attached to the 40 contact connector (I presume there was not enough room for another attach It may be necessary to use a jumper wire in some cases. However, I am most concerned about the poor grounding of the system. On the 40-contact connection, there are eight ground connections (there is only one ground on the 40-contact The noise could have been stabilized with stronger grounds. Traces could have been added. (A more expensive solution might be to have a groundplane layer on the PCB. 3) Also, an additional three. There could have been a 3V trace The boards can be very useful when installed with jumper wires and with some care.
It would be even better if the 40 pin connectors came already soldered, but there would be a price increase. In any case, you like to solder, so you got these boards. Featured on the boards are standoffs for added stability. The boards are sturdy and have standoffs for more support. It was not easy to remove the traces with a soldering iron (on junky boards, they can come It is important that you make purchases because you will use all four one day.
The boards have clear silk screened labeling and are of good quality. It's easy to solder the connectors to the board because they penetrate right through it. All of the following is included in the package A board, a set of offsets, a connector.
I make controllers with the raspberry pi 3 and I used to use jumper wires before I discovered Each hole on the boards is through-bolted, so that they are very well suited to the design The board has been completely soldered and is With this little board, all relays, pH, ORP, TDS and others are connected from the Pi by jumper wires. This allows for easy maintenance, including replacement of the Pi. Because it was so easy to do, I built the other controller with it This is the only thing I will ever use in a Raspberry Pi project. Despite the lack of soldering on the connectors, the product is so well designed and so easy to solder that it is a piece of cake.
It's great to have these things! There are labels on all the pins, and it is easy to assemble. This is how I built an OpenHab system 3d hat for my Pi, soldering on a superheterodyne RF radio TX/RX module to control devices on the 433mhz band. One of them was used to control some ws2811 LED chains using a hat. I have no complaints about either one. Mounting hardware is included too so it has a good connection to your This is how the GPIO / Power is I found working with him very easy. There are 2 more in my possession, but I would buy more if I needed more.
No problems with the shipment and delivery from the supplier. The quality is very high, but the surface area of use is very small, and their scope of applications is quite limited. The prototyping industry has improved over the years. Some of the applications they are used for work well.
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