Hoya NXT Plus 37mm 10-Layer HMC Multi-Coated Circular Polarizer Lens Filter, Low-Profile Aluminum Frame
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A one-year warranty is included with Hoya filters.
I believe that filters are determined by your lens's filter threads rather than the type of lens. For the record, I used it with my Fuji X-T1 camera. T2 lenses do not have a mirror.
This lens requires a 55mm focal length.
Thank you for your time; this filter is manufactured in the Philippines, as per your request.
Selected User Reviews For Hoya NXT Plus 37mm 10-Layer HMC Multi-Coated Circular Polarizer Lens Filter, Low-Profile Aluminum Frame
I'm tired of trying to sort through conflicting reviews on things, and choosing a new circular polarizer for my new Sony rx10 Mark 4 was proving to be a challenge. I finally decided on this unit because of its low profile and dual-side threads. It will fit on the Sony lens while allowing you to keep the factory lens hood and cap. Yes, you can reach in around the lens Hood and rotate this polarizer by pressing on the grippy ridges on the front edge without leaving a fingerprint on the filter if you are careful with your finger. Yes, you must exercise caution, but it does work well. br>br> I've been a photographer since the early 1980s and have used a variety of cameras with various polarizers. I chose not to use a 'warming' polarizer because, with digital photography, color adjustments can now be made after the fact in software; the polarization effect is lovely and noticeable, and I don't notice any additional lens flare artifacts. It appears that the multicoating is doing its job. When the Sony rx10 Mark 4's lens magnification is set to its widest setting, there is no vignetting. Finally, the front of this filter has enough threads to accommodate the factory pinch grip lens cap. br>br>I don't use a UV filter with this. That, in my opinion, is superfluous. When necessary, I place the polarizer directly on the front of the lens. br>br> Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of this polarizer: br>br> 1) Do not screw this on too tightly to your lens, as this will cause it to jam. With screw-drivers, you'll see this happen to people all the time. with regard to filters It's very straightforward: Screw it on lightly until it comes to a complete stop. Don't squeez it any more! There's no need to be concerned after that. Because of the nice grooving on the outside diameter, it always comes off easily. 2) Locate the white triangle index mark on the outside diameter of the camera while the filter is removed. Grind away a small portion of the black finish on the rotating polarizer's front facing part, adjacent to the index mark, with a small file (see photo). Tip: The index mark is the point on the polarizer effect that indicates which way it is oriented. When looking 90 degrees away from the sun, you point this toward the sun to darken the sky. To block reflections from horizontal objects such as water, you can set the index point to top center. Alternatively, you can simply rotate it and look through your viewfinder until you get the effect you want for foliage, clouds, or other compositions. The trick is to be able to see the index mark from the front while still wearing the lens hood, which prevents you from gripping the filter's rotating portion normally. The visible serrations on the front of this filter allow you to turn it by touching it with your finger from the front, and with your new shiny index mark visible from the front, you're good to go and won't need to remove your lens hood to make adjustments. It's very handy!.
I recently purchased the Coated Slim Frame Glass Filter. There are filters that are significantly less expensive and filters that are significantly more expensive. br>br>There are filters that are significantly less expensive and filters that are significantly more expensive. You may not want to spend this much on a UV filter if you have a low-quality lens, but you definitely do not want to put a low-quality filter on a good piece of glass. br>br>I don't believe I've ever owned a better UV filter, so I'm willing to pay a little more for it. After using the new NXT Plus model for a while, I was so impressed that I immediately purchased another for another lens. Because of the high multi-pass nature of this filter, I've seen no distortion or colorization, and there's almost no ghosting. They use a coating. It's also easy to keep clean because of the waterproof top coat. br>br>These UV filters come highly recommended.
Only recently did I realize that my inexpensive (under $10) UV filters could catch a light at a specific angle, causing flare in my images. I still believe in using a protective glass lens, so rather than leaving my lens unprotected, I decided to try a better, user-recommended filter. br>br>While this Hoya was a significant improvement, I was still able to find situations where my images had flare. I could not see any flare after removing the UV filter, indicating that the issue was not with the lens. br>br>I have two 67mm filter size lenses, and the Hoya produced the results mentioned above on the 85mm lens. With or without the filter, there was no flare on the 16mm lens. This is a contentious subject. br>br> A UV filter, in my opinion, can aid in the prevention of dust and moisture entering the lens. It also serves as a scratch guard for the lens. UV filters will continue to be used by me. My lenses flare only under specific lighting conditions. If I see flare in one of those cases, I can simply shift angles to eliminate it, or remove the filter entirely in critical situations. My lenses range in price from $500 to $1000, so I'm very concerned about keeping them in good condition.
It's obvious that this is a high-quality product. I use it with a Fujifilm medium format lens and a Fujifilm GFX 100 camera (100 MP), so any flaws would be obvious right away. But I don't see any flaws, and the increased color depth and reduced "popping" of hot spots caused by bright sunlight are immediately noticeable in the form of far more appealing outdoor photos. Many of the photos I've taken with this filter include water (mostly rivers), and the reduced glare is an added bonus. Only because these aren't cheap do I give them a lower value rating.
Filters are an essential part of your camera bag if you're a serious photographer. UV filters are "just a thing to cover your front lens element," according to the majority of people. They are, however, much more. Because polarizers and neutral density filters are frequently used in front of them, they must be of the highest possible quality. On my Canon L lenses, I only use Hoya NXT Plus filters. The product is of excellent quality and is reasonably priced.
This is a fantastic filter that performs admirably in the field. Glass quality is excellent--it's thinner than most and fits in the case better than standard--it's thinner than most and fits in the case better than standard. There have never been any problems or anomalies with this manufacturer. You pay a little more than others, but the quality is well worth the money.
To protect the ends of a few of my lenses, I bought a few of these UV filters. To protect the end of the lens from being scratched or damaged, I usually install UV filters on all of my lenses permanently. These were replacements for the Gobe UV filters I bought a while back because I wasn't impressed with the clarity of the Gobe UV filters; I don't have any complaints about their ND or CPL filters, only their UV filters. These appear to be far superior to the Gobes, and I'm hoping they will last a long time.
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