Andonstar 5 inch Screen 1080P Digital Microscope HDMI Microscope for Circuit Board Repair Soldering Tool ADSM302

When you are , the viewing screen will turn off. In a nutshell, The book was received this week and I have enjoyed it so far. Because it was completely assembled when delivered, all I had to do was connect the cables after pulling it out of the box. My first thought was that I had received a used microscope, as it appeared that the viewing screen had scratches, but this actually turned out to just be a film protector, and once I removed it, I discovered that the screen was Additionally, you can use the microscope with the included viewing screen, or connect it to a computer with the supplied USB cable. Or, you can use the included HDMI cable to connect it to a monitor or TV via HDMI. You must download the Andonstar software if you connect the player to a PC via USB. I followed the instructions on the website to switch the language to English from my own, which was written in Chinese. If there's a future upgrade they can make it so that even upon installing the software it allows you to pick between English and Spanish. Typically, I don't find the USB software very useful because, aside from the measuring capability, it doesn't help me much. When you are connected to the computer via USB, the viewing screen turns off, which means you have to play around with the microscope while you are looking at the screen, which can be an inconvenience if you don't have the room to position the microscope close to the Furthermore, the biggest disadvantage to the USB software mode is that the resolution is limited to 720p. This limits your ability to enlarge the image if you want to enlarge it in the future. In addition, if you for some reason want to record video with this program, you need to set the resolution to 640 x 480. It was not even worth my time to try My 60" HDTV can be connected to HDMI. I recently tested this connection method and it was indeed interesting, although it had the same problem of not displaying the viewing screen In other words, while using a microscope, you will have to look up at the TV or monitor while analyzing a specimen. When viewing through the included viewing screen, it just doesn't feel as comfortable as when using As you can see in the features list, you can work with a micro-computer There is an SD card up to 32 GB in size and a microSD card I was able to use the SDHC 16gb card with this microscope without any problems. If I am looking at specimens, I can easily take photos or video in 1080p, and when I am done, I can connect the microscope to the PC via the USB cable and enter Mass Storage mode, which basically allows me to transfer the photos and videos from the microscope to the PC. Your computer needs to be connected to your SD card. The one tip I can give you is that you can change the resolution when in picture mode if you hit the menu button on the controller. It's set to 12 megapixels by default, but I prefer it set It is also very important to change the quality to Fine, in particular if you wish to enlarge any of the There is no option to save your preferences, so every time you power up the microscope you must set them again. Maybe a future update can make it so that your preferences will be preserved. You should not go overboard with the 560x magnification My computer monitor has just measured (with a ruler) a table salt cube produced by the microscope at maximum magnification that I took from one of my photos, and what I got was a cube with a length of a little over 2 inches, so about 50mm. There are eight millimeters among those eight totems. Salt cubes, which are commonly 0 grams in size, are usually 0 grams. The length of the thread was 3 millimeters. Simply divide 44 by 8. The dimensions are 45 mm by 0 mm. The optical zoom is about 170x in my case, with a 3 mm lens. Using a 4x digital zoom, I'd be able to magnify everything up to about 680x in my 24 inch monitor, but I much prefer the 170x optical zoom. Here are some images I took during my demo, so you can get an idea of what this amazing microscope is capable of.

Emmett Macias

| Jan 02, 2021

A good piece of software with excellent functionality. Software for the PC that is useless. Digital micro/macroscopes are available at this price point for as low as $250. It's much better than the others I've tried so far, but I've had experience with only a few I was even more happy than I expected to be. The scope of this project has a lot to recommend it. To begin with, it's delivered with exceptionally effective padding, and what's more, it came with a fully functioning charger. The above-listed items There are a lot of cables & wires We provided all the necessary connectors (except for the two AAA batteries for the remote control). Power is provided by a 5V USB cable and a 2-amp wall adapter There is a USB wall wart provided with it, but I can run it without power (in standalone mode) on an unpowered USB hub, complete with LCD, LED lights, and all that. This is the ultimate It is (for me) much more preferable to have the black finish rather than the older Despite the stand and the assembly as a whole being solid and vibration-free, the stand still wobbles and wiggles. However, it is when I am actually using it where I am most impressed with With its long barrel and smooth (and necessary) viscous dampening, the long lens is extremely easy to hold and focus. Even when zooming in all the way, it's easy to get a sharp focus and there is Furthermore, due to its length, the color LCD is positioned at a good height and the long focus distance keeps the lens away from solder smoke and other contaminants. **** Vertical adjustment is in two stages. There is an Allen screw located on the mounting bracket that can be removed, which can be used to lower the whole assembly (it arrived at the top position), but I doubt anyone will use the supplied lens since its closest focus is about 2 inches, which is roughly the lowest position you can get. It is possible to solder SMD components at a distance of just under 0 (which still leaves enough room for SMD soldering). On the built-in LCD, there is a viewing area of 3 inches wide. An image with excellent contrast and clarity can be seen. There is a maximum distance of about 4 feet between the end of the arm and the machine. With a field of view exceeding 5", this lens has an extremely wide field of view. On the LCD, there is a display of 6". Hence, it is ideal for SMD work as it gives a significant amount of space over the stage. Here I would like to point out the only obvious defect. After adjusting from the lowest position to about 60% of full height, the vertical adjustment becomes tighter and stiffer. After more than 80% of full height, I am unable to adjust, as the knobs require too much force. Possibly, there could be a way to alleviate the gradual binding near the top position, but I have not taken the time to look into it. It's a great feature, but I'm unable to use maximum height often enough, and the feel of the mechanism binding tighter and tighter is a bit annoying for something that is so smooth and easy to adjust in all its other aspects. It appears that the vertical adjustment is not rack & pinion It could involve a steel tape mechanism and a pinion, but we'll see how it goes. In the meantime, I have contacted Andonstar for assistance as well as updated this review. The scope initially defaults to maximum sharpening, which results in a poor image when connected directly to a 50" UHD panel (without a PC). Users should be aware that the scope tends to default to maximum sharpening by default. On the remote control, the sharpness can be set in three modes low, medium, or high. I find that low is quite adequate. The medium quality can provide some helpful sharpness when the chip markings are faint. While there are a few operational refinements I would like (turn off the lights in stand-alone mode without turning off the camera, for one), this won't be something I need to do very often. The main reasons for my enthusiasm have to do with the design and rigidity of the lens, the level of focus, and the clarity of the image. I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase, especially if I'm able to resolve the vertical adjustment issue, which I'm pretty sure is going to be a very simple task. Although, there are other factors at play here the software. If you search for the needed app, you will find links to websites that look as if they can help, but these links are mostly broken. The manual, however, contains a Dropbox link It is provided in a shortened goo format. It is clearly spelled out, and also in gl form. Despite this, Dropbox does not appear to have anything else to offer The software is all that's needed. The USB connection to a PC has difficulties going through a hub as well. have not tried it with a powered hub yet, however with a passive hub the camera is recognized and a screen appears, There is no indication of what the problem might be if this is your first time using the software. In the manual, after explaining how to use the software, there is a section on how to hook up the scope, mentioning that you must connect with a USB cable with sufficient power, although this is described as 5V, which gives us no information about the required power. Whenever possible, I suggest starting with a direct connection to the PC and, if a hub is required, it will be able to draw power from the PC. There is no mention of the camera's required choice during the camera's startup process, in which the Camera Mode must be selected. Although it is fairly obvious, do you know if your PC can also access the memory card (if any) you placed Despite not having tried it myself, it is indicative of the somewhat sketchy implementation of the software. It is then that the scope's LCD displays a bright blue background with "PC Camera" centered in the middle, and this will persist for as long as the computer is connected to it. I hate how the backlight is wasted, and how the LCD gets burned- In the end, the software is sufficiently serviceable once everything is in place and you have some time to get used to it. Since the scope in standalone mode is so well suited to my needs, I am not anticipating a lot of use of the software. In addition to elaborate counting and measurement tools, there are many other features that can help a biologist count bacteria in a petri dish, or assess the mesh or denier when working with textiles. There might be occasions when I will need to double check the hole spacing on the circuit board, but this is icing on the cake that is already under-implemented It is ready. It is important that you follow the calibration method when using an on-site calibration kit Screen measurements must make sense in order for this to work. As far as video capture on the PC is concerned, it is a disappointment, although I"m not likely to need to use it that It appears that the video setting for 1920 x 1080 is set by default, but when I click Take a Video, a popup tells me to choose 640 x 480 as the video size. In File >, you will find this setting Click on 'Video' to change the settings A video capture pin brings up a dialog where you can downgrade from HD to this old PC VGA mode from the 1980s. Neither this nor the previous mode does anything. In fact, I haven't yet been able to record, although after a few settings, the app begins displaying a blank grey image, though the zoom control window still shows a cursor with the image at the location As a result, the signal from the camera is coming in, but it isn't reaching It doesn't seem that closing the camera instance and reopening it will have any effect, but it is clear that the app crashed without warning. The moment I expect to be able to capture video is currently not in the cards. Moreover, the app doesn't remember the size you set by default in Windows, so it won't wake up in that size My 49" UHD monitor wakes up full screen whenever it is turned on, a considerable nuisance. The scope's memory card may require capturing video, so I may have to forego the entire PC software disaster and capture video using the scope directly. My PC did not allow me to calibrate when I attempted to do so, instead giving me a message that read, "Can not be empty". Since the process is so straightforward, I can't imagine what the "empty" part could be. A few more attempts later, they crashed again. For now, I am going to rate the HARDWARE as 4 stars with some reservations, as long as it is resolved that the vertical adjustment issue can be fixed. ***** ***** If I had the option to give the software an individual rating, I'd give it a 1, but I don't want to drag down the rating for the hardware, which is what I was actually As for the software, I wasn't expecting much since these video products are ALWAYS delivered with poor software, although they need to, but it could have been a lot better. I find the microscope to be great as a standalone display, and it I would have preferred a simple app that only does one thing very well, rather than a complex one that crashes all the time. Fortunately, you can run this without any PC or software, or you can use HDMI directly plugged into your TV, which would also produce excellent It's possible that the PC app would never be missed if I was successful in snapping and recording videos with a RAM card. However, the promised capability fails to live up to its promise.

Sage Lara

| Sep 16, 2020

A digital microscope of this quality is actually pretty good. Unfortunately, there is a rather glaring fault in the delivered document. As far as I was concerned, the first one was not in focus from left to right and the stand was crooked. In addition to that problem, I would prefer using a microscope made like this one to a conventional one because one does not need to look into the eyepiece(s) for long periods. Being able to enjoy the screen without being in a headlock is much more convenient than looking through the eyes. Fixing a vise Describe your role. As it turned out, the 2nd unit was also affected by the same problem as the first. My first thought was to see if I could fix the problem. A metal hoops that holds the microscope lens and display assembly was out of alignment, which led to the problem. Evidently, the screw holes are designed with a bit of slop in them so that it can be adjusted, but either the factory adjusts it incorrectly or the container moves it around during transportation. On the up and down adjustment stage, the hoop assembly is attached to the stage with four screws. Furthermore, with these screws, the microscope lens can be positioned vertically so that the axis aligns with the in/out axis of the optical axis. By removing the assembly, four additional screws can be seen inside that adjust the tilt of the hoop on the left and right sides, thus adjusting the tilt of the microscope lens and display. In order to adjust the tilt, the screws need to be loosened, the tilt positioned in the applicable axis, then the screws are tightened. I found a . I used this as the in/out axis. It was easy to align the up/down stage while tightening the screws using a 0. 39" (1mm) feeler gauge between the hoop bracket and the stage. To adjust the left/right position, I held the bracket and hoop against a flat surface and tightened the screws in that position. This is good enough for It looks fine to me for my purposes even though there is still a little difference in focal point between the center of the image and the outer edges.

Aziel Ware

| Jul 26, 2020