0 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 0 Ga Installation Cables 5000W
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You don't have a true 7500-watt amp if you have to ask. That's a $2000 amp; for true OFC 0 gauge, you'll need to spend much more.
It will work, but I recommend using OFC wire instead of this wire, which is CCA and therefore not very good.
Yes, I have a 15-inch comp sub with a 2000-watt jy amp that has never given me any trouble.
Selected User Reviews For 0 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 0 Ga Installation Cables 5000W
and check out the price of these cables. Check the prices of these cables at any car audio store, such as Car Toys or Best Buy. I'm sure you'll be back on Amazon in a matter of minutes to complete your purchase. br>br>Do yourself a favor and read it. You won't get that time back, so save it. You're only reading this review because you're in desperate need of some cables! Dude! Stop procrastinating and go out and purchase them! They're well worth it, and they'll help you avoid the headache that will inevitably follow if you don't add them to your virtual cart right now!.
It's exactly what you'd expect, and it comes with everything you need for a full amp installation. However, I recommend getting an extra set of 0 gauge ring terminals and a spare fuse block. Although only one fuse block is required near the battery on the power wire, it is recommended that another be installed just before the amp power connection. br>br>By the way, this is NOT OFC (copper wire), but CCA (aluminum wire). This is perfect for 90 of people (including myself). If you're pulling anything more than 2k, you're doing something wrong. However, at 3000 watts, I recommend investing in OFC wire instead.
So, unless you really, really want 0 gauge, I advise you not to buy. Instead of having to fiddle with the clamp to get it over the copper like it should have if it was truly 0 gauge, it just slid right on. Smh. I adore Amazon, but with this product, they took a risk.
It appeared, and it was exactly what they had imagined. However, there aren't enough connection pieces included. One red eyelet connector for the positive battery terminal, two for the fuse, and one for the amp side (depending on the project) are all required. br>br>The red and black sleeves for those connections should be heat shrinkable, but they are not in the provided material. Because I used a heat gun, I didn't have to worry about execution. br>br>Because I have not yet turned on the system, I will have to update this later.
One of the positive connectors is missing, as is the case with a lot of other things. To connect to the battery and either side of the fuse, you'll need three connectors. The amp should be connected to a fourth connection, which is pictured but not included. No- One sells the connector separately, requiring you to purchase a separate kit to obtain it. br>Because the RCA and cable protector are useless, they should not have been included in the kit at all. I was unable to complete the installation due to a minor stumbling block. a connector that is missing The connectors are extremely difficult to crimp, and it takes a lot of effort to keep them in place. You must over-complicate the situation. they should be crimped I should have paid attention to the reviews and ordered a different brand; the only reason they get two stars is because the 0 gauge is actually 0 gauge, despite the fact that it is not pure copper and contains aluminum.
It's exactly what you'd expect, and it comes with everything you need for a full amp installation. However, I recommend getting an extra set of 0 gauge ring terminals and a spare fuse. Technically, only one fuse is required, but it's better to be safe than sorry. br>br>By the way, this is NOT OFC (copper wire), but CCA (aluminum wire). This is perfect for 90 of people (including myself). If you're pulling anything more than 2k, you're doing something wrong. However, at 3000 watts, I recommend investing in OFC wire instead.
It isn't bad value for the money. CCA stands for copper-coated aluminum, as opposed to OFC for oxygen-free copper. OFC is a better option, but it's also more expensive, and the connectors are a little flimsy, but they'll do the job. The fuse holder is functional, but for added security, I recommend zip-tying the cover on. My fuel pump caused a constant whine through the amp, so I had to replace the rca cable. I have a high-volume racing fuel pump, but that isn't likely to help. However, this is a low-cost kit that will suffice for the vast majority of people who aren't looking for the lowest possible decibel level.
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