PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller
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Yes, I did it. I drilled a hole in the glovebox and mounted the knob after busting open the plastic housing and pulling out the circuitry. That way, I could open the glovebox and make any necessary adjustments to the levels.
Yes, there are two RCA jacks on the device. One set is for "In," and the other is for "Out." Each of them is a lady.
There are IR-controlled volume boxes available; search for the MCM CUSTOM AUDIO 50-IR. 8394
It's painted on, but the lettering is raised, so it shouldn't be difficult to remove. I don't have a remote, so it's not an issue for me, but I understand the desire for it to be clean!
Selected User Reviews For PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller
Except for the audio taper, everything went as planned. It's an inverse log taper, which means the majority of the volume control occurs in the first quarter turn of the pot. The 50k Ohm potentiometer is reading 40k ohm on the output rca jacks at the 50% position of the output rca jacks at the output rca jacks at the output rca jack It should read closer to 10k ohms at the midpoint if it's a proper audio taper. As a result, it's extremely sensitive at low volumes and practically useless at high volumes. When I opened the case, I discovered that the pot was a C50K, rather than an A50K. If they're going to sell reverse taper audio pots, they'd better be good. They should at the very least issue a warning to the buyer.
I looked for a way to contact the manufacturer, but there was no way to do so. I have a subwoofer that is amplified but does not have a volume control. The AVR to which it is connected was unable to reduce the output to a level that I considered acceptable. I connected this device to the sub and it works but the control knob goes from zero to 100% in about 1/10th of the knob rotation of the knob rotation of the rotation of To put it another way, there doesn't appear to be a linear adjustment with equal gradations between the knob's two extremes. It's a little more difficult to get the right adjustment as a result of this. I'm not sure if this is how it's supposed to work or if there's a flaw, but I couldn't find a way to contact the manufacturer to inquire.
I've been using these PAC level controllers for a long time. For a variety of reasons, I prefer to use them on a subwoofer amplifier rather than the level controllers that come with some amplifiers and plug directly into the amp. The first reason is that these PAC controllers are housed in a plastic case that can be easily removed without causing damage to the circuitry. This allows you to use only the working circuitry, which consists of a potentiometer and a small chip, inside the casing. This makes mounting the controller much easier and nicer, as you can simply mount the much smaller potentiometer in a small hole on the dash or other compartment in the vehicle, hiding the potentiometer behind the dash so that only the knob is visible. (Controller mounted in my Tacoma) "I apologize for not photographing the controller after removing the case. " Because of the bulky case that surrounds it, you're forced to mount the level controller using two small screws on the outside of the dash, which is an unsightly sight. "Well, wouldn't level controllers that plug directly into the amp be a better option than this PAC controller?" some might ask. In most cases, the answer is no, as I'll explain. This LC-PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC The RCA from the head unit to the amplifier is connected to one controller inline. As a result, it has direct control over the signal to the amplifier. Because it is in charge of the signal going to the amp, it has the ability to turn the amp signal completely off, ensuring that no signal reaches the amp. As a result, no sound will come from the woofers because there will be no output to them. This is useful for when you don't want all of the bass in your music. The level controllers that plug directly into the amp now control the amp's output gain, so they can only reduce the gain as far as the amp allows. Even if the gain on an amplifier is turned all the way down, it will still send voltage to the subwoofers, causing sound to be produced. The woofer's sound will be muffled, but it will still be audible. To put it another way, if you want to be able to control the volume of your subwoofer from full mute to full gain, you'll need this. This LC-PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC PAC The best option is to use just one controller. They're well-made, simple to operate, and efficient. Another benefit is that they control the signal entering the amplifier rather than the gain exiting the amplifier. Because signal input from head units is typically less than 5 volts, they can be used with any size amplifer. This controller is capable of handling it.
I'm using it to monitor and control two Rockville locations. This controller is fantastic. In my truck, it's used to control two Rockville powered subs. The only limit to how you can hide this thing is your imagination. Mine was hidden behind my dash as a cigarette lighter.
Simple pad/attenuator that can be adjusted. I was planning on making my own, but the price of this small stereo attenuator was more cost and time effective; the build quality is lower than I expected, but I can't complain for $7 shipped to my door. I'm not too concerned with robustness because I'm using this to reduce the input signal from my retro game consoles to my studio monitors. If you're going to use it in a car, as it was intended, I'd recommend getting something a little more durable. The body is made of very cheap plastic, and the RCA cables exiting the back housing through a rubber grommet keep it together. The knob action, on the other hand, is extremely smooth.
My truck has a vintage Memphis mono amp that I recently installed. It works perfectly, but it is missing the original Memphis remote. Because not all RJ11 remote controls are compatible, I began looking for a universal gain control knob and came across this. It costs less than $10 and performs identically to most proprietary gain knobs that cost five times as much. I decided to hook it up in my truck before pulling out of the driveway today because it was delivered during my lunch break. I simply grabbed an extra RCA cable pair that ran from the output connectors to my amplifier and connected it to the existing pre-amp. It has RCA inputs that can be amplified. It works great and allows me to turn down the bass a little more quickly when I pull into the office parking lot each morning. I'm sure it's appreciated by my coworkers.
I ordered one but didn't put it in until after the return period had passed. When I first noticed static at high volumes, I assumed it was due to a defective unit. So I ordered a new one, which produced the same results and was returnable. I've tried increasing the gain on other parts of the system (source and amp) to reduce the need to turn the knob all the way down, but I still get distortion once the system gets loud. This will not work for me because my goal is to have a system that is reasonably loud. I'm giving it three stars because it could be used for a smaller group. a lot of noise Plus, it's only $9, so if you keep your expectations in check, it's not a bad buy. So, three out of five.
I used it with a Raspberry Pi USB sound card and Logitech desktop amplified speakers in an arcade cabinet. Because the Logitech speakers are mounted inside the cabinet and their volume control is inaccessible, it gave me a volume control that I could mount in a convenient location. There is no static or hissing. br>br> The adjustment range is excellent and fluid. There is no deterioration in sound quality.
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