DS18 DB1030 Distribution Ground Block - 1 x 0GA in/ 3 x 0GA Out, Nickle Plated Internal Materials, High-Strength Heat Resistant Plastic Housing, Oversized Screws for Secure Connections (1 in 3 Out)
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This model splits (reduces) from 0ga to 4ga by having one 0ga input and two 4ga outputs. It's never a good idea to split power between two 4ga devices. Always use a larger to smaller ratio to avoid overheating the main line and melting the protective wrap, resulting in a fire.
Yes, you can, but it would not be correct, and I would not do it myself. Whether you're using power or ground, distributing A single 4 gauge wire into 2) 4-gauge wires would be correct. The wire gauge is incorrect.
The screws will keep the smaller wires in place, just as you've requested. However, using the 1 gauge wire with the two 4 gauge wires going out is never a bad idea. The Alpime recommendation, in my opinion, is based on the smallest size gauge for best performance. Using larger wires will ensure that it receives enough power and will make future upgrades easier.
Get 4 g, I'm running 0 g, and it's more powerful.
Selected User Reviews For DS18 DB1030 Distribution Ground Block - 1 x 0GA in/ 3 x 0GA Out, Nickle Plated Internal Materials, High-Strength Heat Resistant Plastic Housing, Oversized Screws for Secure Connections (1 in 3 Out)
This distribution block's ports are accurate in size, which is a relief because this is something that frequently gets lost in translation. The block is actually protected by a clear plastic top with four tabs that snap into place. The tabs aren't easy to work with, so I had to pry them off with a thin screwdriver while being careful not to break them. The clear plastic base is screwed to the distribution block and has four holes through which it can be tightened. The screws used to secure the cables have a beveled end with slight serrations on the edges, which could be beneficial or detrimental. Those serrations will chew into your cable, improving the connection, especially if you have a 10,000-strand monster cable. The contrary is that once you disconnect that cable, some of the strands will fall off and you will need to chop a half inch off the cable to recover 100% of the conductors Each strand is thicker and less likely to be broken by the serrations if you're using a 110 strand 2 gauge starter cable like I am. Although not as flexible as speaker cable, starter cable can still be used for car audio because it has enough flex to resist road vibrations over short distances. Overall, this piece was a good fit, did the job well, and is attractive.
The single 1/0 in/dual 1/0 out block is being reviewed. br>The positive: br>Well-made, with tight set screws and a thread stripping point of over 105 foot pounds. You won't be able to go over that limit. Two small phillips screws hold the cover in place firmly - This is a nice addition. Castings that are both metal and plastic are very clean. br>Contrary to popular belief, the following is a list of flaws in this br>Because the metal distribution block still has raw machining marks and minor scratches in the finish, I wouldn't use it for visible pieces in a "show quality" installation where close-up photos of wiring are frequently taken. But at this price, you're not going to buy it for that reason.
- br>In general, I would not hesitate to purchase again if the need arose.
Reducers are not needed. In my car, which has all 1/0 gauge running through it, I installed two of these. the whole vehicle I've got three Orion amplifiers that need a lot of juice. I was able to divide the power from my battery into three parts. (1) 1/0 in, (1) 1/0 to my amp, and (1) 1/0 to the back for my other two amps as well as my capacitor In the back of the car, it's the same story. I had no trouble fitting my stripped wire into the fittings at all. Normally, businesses will state 1/0, but this will not work. These shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've seen some reviews that criticize the covers. You will have no problems putting them on if you know how to do it correctly. Both of my covers were a breeze to put on and stay in place. Put one side in first, then squeeze a little more to get the other side to snap into place. They're one of my favorite things in the world. IMO.
To make 1/0G with ferrule fit, I had to enlarge the holes. br>However, if you're just installing wire bare, you're good to go.
gauge to amplifiers, they take up very little extra space in the build, and they don't appear to be easy to break unless you try really hard. I like how the covers completely enclose all metal surfaces, ensuring that nothing is shorted. Fitting 1/0 gauge welding wire in was a piece of cake.
On one side of the plastic cover, the screws were stripped, making it difficult to remove. This appears to be the only flaw with the product; everything else appears to be in good working order. Higher-quality screws may solve the problem, or I may have simply received an over-sized package. they stripped the screws from a tightened ground block.
Ferrules are essential for having a good time. I tried Kicker, NVX, Skar Audio, Down4Sound, and Sky High wires, but none of the 8 gauge or 4-gauge wires fit on this. Be cautious if you aren't familiar with true spec wires. Don't throw your money away on any of it. The quality is good, and the material is durable, but the holes are far too small.
It appears to be of sufficient quality; One corner of the plastic refused to come off, so I had to pry it free; SMH is usually produced in China. br>br>Apart from that, it feels solid, and the metal doesn't seem to be prone to stripping screws or anything. I'd buy it again if I had the opportunity.
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