InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
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@13 volts, 30 amps dc Anything over 30 amps continuous for this 8awg wire gets too hot at 8 volts MAX. I've been there and done it!
The first and most obvious response is: You can find the diameter, weight, and rating for any wire size on the AWG website; in this case, you're looking at aluminum wire, not copper, which is more important than size; this wire says "Soft Touch," and this company makes it with aluminum. Aluminum wire should be handled with caution, as it can be hazardous.
All electronics should be made out of ofc (oxygen-free copper). This isn't something you should buy. If you need power, it corrodes quickly in normal air and carries 40% less current than the same awg copper wire! Copper is the way to go.
I believe you are capable. The cost, as well as the inability to confine the wires (you'd need four wires, two for carrying the load, one for neutral, and one for ground), would be a concern. I believe an 8 gage 3 with ground shielded cable would be preferable. The only benefit I can see is how adaptable it is.
Selected User Reviews For InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
They're trying to pass this off as copper wire, but it's just cheap aluminum wire. The wire was delivered after I was duped by the product description. The material of the jacket appears to be soft and well-made. However, for my radio setup, I needed copper 8 gauge wire. Pay attention to what you're reading and make the appropriate purchase.
The wire is made of ALUMINUM rather than copper, as the product description implies. After two years, it disintegrated due to horrendous galvanic corrosion. The wire appears to be copper colored, but it is actually made of aluminum. br>br>I hadn't seen aluminum wire for decades, so I wasn't expecting anything other than copper. br>br>Fortunately, my truck didn't catch fire.
All car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps, which is a good dealbr>Just want to help a bit with the size of wire actually neededbr>all car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps, which is a good deal. And I did initially install 4 gauge and found it to be difficult to install and conceal, but the wires were always ice cold, so I knew they were not being put under any load. After that, I did some more research on the gauge size required for the amount of watts being used, and discovered by reading two different engineers' works - the true geeks who know what they're talking about and aren't out to upsell or overprotect a product - That 8 gauge is more than adequate for my needs - The proof is in the fact that nothing, including the wires and connections, gets hot. This is due to the fact that not all charts account for the wire's length or the actual wattage. br>Measuring the wire length is a simple way to determine its length. And you can figure out how many watts your amp is using by looking at the size of the fuses it uses - One of my amps, for example, has 2 - 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms on the label. fuses rated at 25 amps That's a total of 50 amps. multiply this by 12 (the volts your vehicle's system operates at) to get the absolute maximum watts my amp can produce before the fuses blow. In my case, the amp is rated at 600 watts. Now we can work with a real (maximum) number of watts. But don't forget how you listen to your music; in my case, I never listen to it at maximum volume. I'm sure I'm only using 500 watts at most, and much less for a true rms. br>At this point, my rant is nearly over. My other amp has a maximum output of 2400 watts and a minimum output of 1200 watts. There are two of them. fuses with a rating of 40 amps Giving it a true max watts of 9600 and my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never go above 85% max volume due to distortion at max levels Once again, this reduces the true rms to a fraction of the 800 watts that the wires would be subjected to while listening to music for any extended period of time. I hope this has been of assistance. If anyone has any doubts, please let me know. Run your system at its maximum volume for a few minutes, then inspect the wires and connections near the battery and amplifier. If any part of your amp is hot to the touch, you're not getting the maximum wattage from it and should use thicker wires. Not to mention the fact that any potential dangers must be avoided.
Within a few months, the copper wires inside the cable corrode completely and simply break apart. This is complete nonsense. It'll work fine for a few months, but then it'll suddenly fall apart. Junk. I would not purchase this item again, and I would not recommend it to others.
I'm using a Soundqubed HDS3. 1 15" with a power rating of 2400WMax/1200WRMS. Originally, I was using an Orion Cobalt 2500 to push it. 1D, which is wired at 1 ohm and rated at 1200 RMS. I began with KnuKoncepts Kollosus OFC 4ga wire, which, despite my admiration for KnuKoncepts, appeared to be underpowered for my Sub. After a clamp test, I discovered that I was only getting low 700s at best. With Cobalt being Orion's low-cost amplifier brand, I figured my 2500 would be fine. 1D was probably overrated, but it had a 120amp internal fuse rating, which is calculated by multiplying the fuse rating by the voltage output, so let's say 12V, which my car always produces 13. When it's turned on, it's 9 volts, but at 12 volts, it's still 1440 volts, so I assumed it was underpowered due to a lack of gauged 12 volts. Due to a lack of funds, I had to make do with what I had, but after 7 months, my 2500 arrived. 1D ceased to function properly and began to kick in. protection mode is no longer active When it wasn't in protective mode, it sounded terrible. When I realized this meant it was shot, I upgraded to the Cobalt 3500. 1D However, after only a month, this amplifier developed the same issue. So, despite the fact that it's CCA rather than OFC, I decided to try this 1/0 wire in the hopes of stopping the failures I was having with my Cobalts. I've always been a believer in OFC or nothing, but anyone who knows wire prices knows the significant difference in price for 20' of 1/0ga OFC compared to CCA wire. I finally got it installed, haven't gotten it hooked up to a properly sized Amp for my sub yet because my Cobalts both shot craps already, but the Power Acoustiks RZR Amp I'm temporarily using, til I can afford a larger amp again I found putting up a firewall to be a lot less difficult than I had anticipated. Despite the fact that I haven't officially measured it, it appears to be legitimate or very close to the correct gauge. It's wrapped in thick insulation, but it doesn't appear to be a(use insulation to compensate for insufficient wire) situation where 2 gauge appears to be 1/0ga. When you consider what you get, it's definitely worth every penny. what you pay for it. Regardless of the fact that it is not OFC, I am satisfied enough to purchase it again. Thank you for providing such a high-quality wire at such a low cost!.
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