Time-Sert M14x1.5 Oil pan Thread Repair kit

My 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 had stripped oil pan threads. I used this to repair them. There's one thing you should know, and that is which inserts you need, which is There is no information provided in the item description about the 7mm depth (part #14155). Choose the correct deep insert for your application or order them separately. There are different depth inserts, so be sure you order the correct kit or inserts. It was fortunate that the insert depth worked for my needs because I didn't give it much consideration prior to ordering. In order to drill and tap, check to make sure you have the appropriate socket adapters before you begin. I repaired my oil pan while the truck was still mounted, removal and replacement would have taken between four and six hours overall, the removal and crossmounting kit would have been more economical. This member is. There is an 11mm square groove for the drill bit drive, so if you plan on using a drill, you'll need one with a large chuck, perhaps 3/4". With a 3/8" ratchet and a 1/2" 12 point socket, I tightened the nut. Drilling with a ratchet is very difficult because you cannot place pressure on the center bore of the bit, which makes it very difficult to keep the bit square to the surface of the metal. While you cannot use the drill bit guide provided (it should), you can use the tap guide provided, even though it is Five millimeters) longer For drilling, I used the tap guide as much as possible to make sure I was square. I cut the hole quickly with the bit because it is sharp. The chips and flakes need to be cleaned. Using a ratchet, the next step was to counterbore the newly drilled hole to the tool depth (the counterbore drive square is 9mm). This was not easy as I could not achieve enough pressure to get a clean cut that would continue to depth. In order to perform this task, I had to jack up the truck and use a large speed adjustable drill with a 1/2" chuck. By using the drill, this became a piece of cake, and a groove in the hole was quickly cut for the insert to fit into. Remove the dust and chips. After tapping the new threads (the tap drive square is 9mm), next step is to rivet the new threads. The step-by-step process of cutting new threads was made easier by using a large die tool for tapping and the included tap guide. Keeping the guide square to the surface, I cut the new threads fairly easily. Ensure that the tap guide is seated evenly all the way around the hole as you tap the threads. Look at it from all angles as you tap. It is absolutely imperative that you do not tap your threads at an angle. Remove the chips and flakes from the oven and clean them. A piece of hanger wire is put into the new bolt hole with a 90 degree bend at one end to catch any debris inside the pan and pull it down,. Then, I thread a blue paper towel up through the hole and make a few turns to fully clean the *The last step is to install the insert (the drive square of the insert tool You will need to oil the insert tool prior to using it. The insert can either be screwed into the hole with your fingers or you can thread it partially onto the tool and then screw it in You can thread your tool either way, but only thread 3/4 of the way onto the tool if you are threading onto the The tool should free up when you turn it into the insert in the hole. At first, you may experience resistance, but just keep going. Here is the tool used for rolling out the threads on the bottom of the insert in order to lock it in. it a few more times to ensure the tool is turning freely, then remove the tool. It was a little concerning to me that the insert was not flush with the surface, but after looking at Time-Sert's site, I found that this was perfectly Put your drain plug back on with a new copper washer, put the old oil back into the engine, and let it sit for a few minutes to make sure the repair is square and there are no leaks (DO NOT STARTED IT). After the drain plug is removed, simply allow it to drain back into your drain pan, which should wash out any debris left behind You will have to let the oil drain away, then install your plug again and tighten it with a new copper washer, and then add Starting the engine and checking for leaks for the next few days is a good idea. Overall, the repair was fairly easy, and would not have gone so smoothly without the drill with a 1/2" chuck. Most people do not have a drill with this size chuck, so some kind of socket adapter for a 1/4" chuck could have helped. If I have any issues, I will update this review. I am extremely pleased with the repair and expect that it will hold up well. The only reason I gave four stars was due to the difficulty with the counterbore tool, and the lack of a bit guide included in the kit to ensure the new hole is square to the surface given the cost.

Meredith Pollard

| Aug 09, 2021

When I changed the oil for the first time since I bought the car last year, I saw a note written on the oil pan in paint marker to the effect that the oil drain had been repaired using According to the stain on the garage floor, there are two to four drops of oil leaking from the plug each day. Having no time to do anything other than put the plug back in, tighten it gently, and pray that it wouldn't leak or fall out while I was driving, I just put it back in. The leak continued to occur a few drops at a time. After checking YouTube to see how others had fixed this problem, I decided to try to fix this myself. Cars with aluminum oil pans are often found to have stripped oil plugs, especially when the oil is changed at a Jiffy Lube or similar It is very common for technicians at these types of facilities to use power tools to remove and tighten oil drain plugs, which results in overtightening In what followed, I thought I would find various ways to fix the issue, ranging from rubber plugs that would only last for one or two oil changes, an oddly shaped magnetic plug, JB Weld, and oversized plugs that would start new threads once The South Main Garage video described a time-sert repair on a vehicle that was similar to mine. Several videos suggested replacing the stripped portion of the oil pan with a longer tube made of a bolt with the correct thread configuration. Because of my inexperience with previous repairs and the oversized plug used in those repairs, I chose the plan described here. A few trips to local hardware shops and a bit of research on the web led me to find a bolt that fits. In accordance with the video advice, I prepared it and set it aside for future oil changes. After I had drained the oil, I installed the longer bolt that I prepared. It didn't work. When I next changed the oil, I installed the longer bolt that I had prepared. Someone had removed the previous oil pan repair and used an oversized drain plug, causing the oil pan threads to increase in size to such an extent that a standard sized plug could not I believe that the oversized plug repair was a make-do repair Since I could only do the shift at best, I bit the bullet and ordered a Time-sert kit off of Several days later, the kit arrived in the mail. In the meantime, I checked the Time-sert site for more information and specifications about the kit while I awaited it. Using the drill bit provided in the kit, I discovered that the oil plug must have a smaller opening than the drill bit provided in the kit. A digital caliper was used to measure the oversized plug and compare that measurement with the Time-Sert website's drill specification. The oversized plug had reamed the oil plug opening out seven thousandths of an inch smaller than the Time-Sert In the event that the oversized plug had been bigger, the time-sert repair would not have worked, and I would have been required to replace the oil pan. In YouTube videos, you can see the installer drill, thread and otherwise prepare the plug opening using a standard ratchet, while other videos use Because my car had a tight configuration, I could not use a ratchet or a power drill to work on it. For a minute, I couldn't think of how to proceed but then remembered that the ratcheting wrenches that were in my tool box might be helpful. Instructions for a Time-sert listed which size 12-inch was to be used The sockets on the Time-sert tools would work with all of the implements - drill, tap, reamer, etc. ** * Using the ratcheting wrenches provided ample access to operate the time-sert For the drill and reamer to cut, however, pressure was needed. As there were only 7 thousandths of an inch to remove, I only needed to use my finger on the drill's end in order to exert pressure. The seat for the inserts required more pressure than usual to cut. I could not apply the necessary pressure to the tool with my finger because the tool's end was sharp. However, it kept sliding off the end of the reamer when I used the ratchet handle. Taking a minute to contemplate, I grabbed one of my ratcheting wrenches that was large enough to cover my reamer shaft, yet small enough to rest on top of the collar of my reamer. It took some time but I was able to apply enough pressure to prepare the insert seat with the help of this wrench. It took a long time to cut the seat for the insert, even with the wrench on the collar. I was tempted to stop before the tool indicated a full cut, but there was a risk that there would be a leak or some The last thing I wanted to do was to do this again, so I made sure I fully cut the seat. Tapping threads requires the use of a sleeve included in the kit for alignment purposes. With such a sharp tap, it would have been easy to damage the installation if it had been used incorrectly. To catch any shavings that arose from this process, I used grease on the drill and both the tap and drill. To flush out any sand particles that remained in the engine after drilling, threading, and preparing the insert for installation, I poured a couple of quarts of oil through it. Using my fingers, I threaded the new insert in. In order to verify that the insert was properly set, I threaded the installation tool all the way in until I could get the insert into place with my fingers. Despite being a member of thread locker, I didn't use it. Lastly, to prevent the possibility of thread damage or insert back-out, I installed a Fumoto valve so that future oil changes will be a worry-free experience. The leaks have not yet occurred, and there are no estimates that they will occur.

Nathalia Knight

| Sep 20, 2020

product is covered pretty well in the other reviews, but I only have one complaint I would expect each of the tools to fit in one standard chuck for cordless drills at $130. In general, you need a different attachment for each one, which is frustrating, since these repairs are more or less precise, and not being able to insert the tools (namely the drill bit) into a cordless drill chuck makes it very difficult to perform an accurate repair. We will repair it for free). In this case, this would not have been an issue if the drill bit was designed to fit directly into my chuck. It might be a good idea for buyers to invest in some screws Increasing the size of the oversize chuck adapter will mitigate this issue, but you're still going to be drilling with much more distance between the chuck and the hole than necessary. After that wobble was resolved, reaming into the bushing and inserting it in place was not much of an issue after the hole was created. Sealing the outer threads required the use of Time-Sert's thread locker (which appears to be a rebranded Loctite). It feels like the repair is very solid, despite the crookedness, and is almost certainly not going anywhere anytime Fortunately, I added an oil drain valve, so I will never have to move a bolt through those threads again.

Maia NORTH

| Jun 14, 2021