OEMTOOLS 25202 Ball Joint Separator
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Thank you for your inquiry. We regret that the OEMTools 25202 does not have a specific vehicle application. You also didn't specify which component you want to get rid of. I don't think this will work on your Chevy Cruise because none of your steering or suspension components have a 15/16" tapered shaft. This is the standard size for full-size PU trucks. If you're replacing a Tie Rod, check the tapered shaft size of your replacement component and order one of our other sizes by searching for OEMTools Tie Rod End Puller on Amazon. To avoid damaging your steering knuckle when removing the Ball Joint, use our OEMTOOLS 27234 Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool. I hope this has provided you with a satisfactory response to your query.
To remove the pedals from a bicycle, you do not use force. The bore's flats are accessed with a 13mm wrench. A hex key may be required if you have a nicer road bike.
It has a diameter of about 1/2 inch and I use it for a variety of purposes.
It's tapered enough at the point to fit under almost any ball joint, so I'm sure it will. It's also a reliable heavy tool. I'm running it on a 1996 Isuzu Trooper that's mostly GM.
Selected User Reviews For OEMTOOLS 25202 Ball Joint Separator
It works perfectly, and it's not even close to being soft. Mine has a tuning fork-like ring to it. One small sledge, a pickle fork, and no intention of being gentle with the old ball joint's rubber boot. It's a wonderful life. br>br>Did your pickle fork bend while you were eating it? You're doing it incorrectly if this is the case. This isn't a pry bar, a crow bar, or a lever. br>br> It's a chisel, to be precise. It's a hardened chisel that has been heat treated. A chisel cannot be bent by hammering it straight on, but it can be bent by hammering it in and then pushing it sideways in an attempt to pry the ball joint out of its high-tension position. It will bend if you use a friction tapered socket. To be a cheater, put a pipe on it. It is going to flex. Are you willing to take a chance? Yep: bend. It's known as tool abuse if yours is bent. Just like a bent screwdriver, it's bent because you used it in a way it wasn't meant to be used. This is pounded inwards with a hammer. Only. That's the only thing it does. If you don't know how to use a tool, don't blame it on it.
if you receive the exact item that was described. This is a good last-minute substitute for the heavier-duty tool, which usually costs a lot more. I was in the middle of removing a frozen ball joint from my truck's knuckle, and I had no choice but to abuse this tool until I realized it was smaller than the description stated. This tool is marketed as being 14 years old. 8" x 2. The item I received is 12 x 1, rather than 75" X 1". 75 x . The tool eventually worked, but the fork began to bend slightly as a result of the repeated application of pressure from the touch job I was doing. I decided to keep it because the smaller size is convenient for tool boxes. The following is a lesson learned: On Amazon, don't put your faith in the descriptions or measurements. Before you use something, double-check it. even if you're as occupied as we are.
My control arm and lower ball joint were not separated as a result of this. It wasn't thick enough to put enough pressure on them to separate them. br>br> br>br>I'm sure it works fine on easy-to-remove ball joints, but it won't work on frozen ones. br>br>It's a good deal and a useful tool for $11. However, don't expect it to separate anything that is even slightly "frozen. " The ball joint separating tool with a "screw type" is your best bet. br>br>We tried a few different approaches with this fork for about 2 hours and failed. br>br>I was successful after three minutes of using the screw type separator.
With a two- or three-pound sledge, this tool is perfectly adequate for use on cars and light trucks. The tool will remain wedged in the joint because the surface deforms slightly. When parts do not separate with normal levels of force, you can use this to your advantage. br>br>Drive the fork into the joint with a half-dozen blows on a particularly tight joint. Apply more penetrating oil to the seam between the ball joint and the A-frame once the tool is securely wedged in the joint. If you leave the fork in the joint for a while, the new oil will penetrate further than before because the fork is applying a load to the joint. br>br>When you return in a half-hour or so, the parts should be easier to separate.
Without bending this product, I couldn't even get my ball bearing out of the housing. I'd like to be refunded my funds. DISCLAIMER: DO NOT PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT. It's made of the world's most affordable metal. It was particularly aggravating because I had planned to work on my project over the weekend. br>YET AGAIN, DO NOT PURCHASE IT!.
I despise how people refer to this as a "ball joint separator" when it's actually a pickle fork that can separate ball joints. If you're trying to carefully remove them, you'll need to find another tool because you're not asking it to separate with this one. You're squeezing the life out of the joint by separating it. If you're replacing ball joints and don't want to reuse them, this is useful.
My upper joints popped right out, but the lowers were a real struggle. I pounded this thing with a hammer for a long time trying to get them out before finally prying a little with a breaker bar. Although the prying worked, I could see how the fork could be damaged because it isn't designed to pry but rather to hammer. I was working in a small space, so a longer hammer range or an air hammer would have gotten the job done just fine. Overall, it's fine for the price, and you won't be able to break it easily.
This tool is available at a reasonable price, and it is well-made. I used this to separate two ball joints (one on each side), and it worked flawlessly. I've also used it to separate other stuck joints, and the metal hasn't been dented or bent. This is the best place to buy your own pickle fork if you're tired of renting one from the auto parts store.
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