ITEQ 5 Pcs Automotive Oxygen Sensor Socket Wrench Remover Tool and Thread Chaser Set
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There is a 2010 Mini Cooper that can be fitted with this.
It is my pleasure to answer. There is no problem with it fitting for the
Unless your oxygen sensor is smaller than 17 mm or larger than 22 mm, it should
It is my pleasure to answer. There is no problem with fitting it to a 2002 Audi Tt Roadster.
Selected User Reviews For ITEQ 5 Pcs Automotive Oxygen Sensor Socket Wrench Remover Tool and Thread Chaser Set
The ambient air sample appears to be collected by the sensors through the air traveling under the wire insulation. It seems UFB, but my saving grace is that I only applied DG to the face of the O2 sensor connector. I have posted two extra images showing the proper high/low voltage swing of my two new upstream sensors based on the data gathered by the OBD2 reader. show a similar high voltage - You are rich, you should be richer There was no dip below * on the low voltage swing. This is the sixth point. It is connected to a 7-volt battery While staying rich for most of the time. When I purchased the LAUNCH 529 Code Reader from Amazon - I was able to keep my money. The ASIN can be found here As in B0811JXH3M , I checked the output signal of my O2 sensors (nice, dynamic output design! I so ordered/received 4 Bosch 15510 O2 sensors delivered for 110 bucks at the "rocky place" after I had driven about 50K miles past the recommended change interval. I have an 08 RAM 1500 model 5 and it runs great. In the VIN number of the 2007 HEMI 2WD Quad Cab, there was the "2" vehicle build descriptor and not the "D" descriptor, that This is the OEM Dodge MOPAR PN used at all four locations for my truck, which is 56029049AA. I knew I was in for a very difficult time in removing these 149K-mile original OEM sensors from the vehicle due to what I had read and seen in videos on YouTube. pictures show that the old sensors were in almost extinct condition). In order to prepare, I bought a socket kit since I was aware of not relying on the 22mm Craftsman OE side of the combination box wrench as the primary tool for the job. . Others suggested a SS band clamp on the slotted socket to prevent it from expanding when torque is applied to it for removal, and some suggested a longer chrome slotted socket would open up under the torque. I didn't like the idea (so I didn't do it). As well, the long slotted socket wouldn't let the sensor wires go over it and seat fully on the hex portion of the sensor. Heavy crows had a bit longer slot - The foot has a preferred 1/2 inch drive, but has much thinner sidewalls than the shorter slotted crows. There was a 3/8 drive in the foot (see photo). The reason I thought of using the heavier crows-foot screws was that I wanted to remove ALL sensors intact, without cutting the wires, and I did not want to remove them with the 22mm DW socket. As I was ready with the socket adapters, I took the 9 foot even though it was for a 3/8 drive The 1/2 ratchet will work well with the 1/4 ratchet of choice in order to muscle through any tight sensor. As a sheet of paper, I tried my Craftsman 22mm OE wrench. Yeah, you're not supposed to, but I was able to loosen three of the four sensors with this wrench since access to the sensors was open. I'm glad I did this. - and a fourth sensor for determining the depth of the water The sensor shown in the picture has a short heavy slotted socket By using a 1/2 ratchet and the 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, the control panel could be easily removed. I was able to loosen and tighten in considerably smaller increments by using a 1/2 ratchet, rather than having to use a square 1/2 drive breaker bar with little throw because there is no ratcheting action. *FYI - I had to run my truck a few minutes to get it from the carport to my flat(er) driveway since it was mostly cold. When I began working on the exhaust system, it was just warm, not hot. To provide a reference, the picture of the short heavy crow's foot on the upstream side is from bank 2, passenger side. As an illustration, the very open sensor in the fourth picture is of the driver's side of bank 1. The plan was available at the time, but it was not used since all sensors only required a 20-second battery charge It took 25 ft lbs of torque to remove them and was done easily with a 22mm OE wrench on three of them. This wiring solution was required for bank 2 upstream - shown in images - because the crows foot socket required a short heavy pin. (The new "pounds feet" designation is BS due to a few sobs wanting to be "politically correct. In that case, I answer STFU . . . . . . . . . . . For me it's always ft lbs . . . A good suggestion would be to ensure you can loosen ALL of your sensors at the same time, preferably at the same time, and then continue. The first thing you should do is NOT disconnect any connectors before changing any sensors, because this is the hardest part, and IF you are unable to remove the sensors yourself, you will likely only need to retighten them for your drive to the shop for removal. It is all downhill from there, easy peasy. . . . Since my back had been operated on two years ago, and because I didn't have a creeper, my work time was roughly two hours or so. . . . Dielectric grease should always be used on electrical connectors and plugs to prevent moisture from getting in. It costs just a few cents to squeeze a small bit of it onto the “face” of the new sensor connectors as shown in the pix with a small amount pushed into the “holes” of the connector. Here we go.
The oxygen sensor will round off when it is still in the exhaust system, which isn't a good thing on its own. However, they also tend to open up under load, so rounding off your oxygen sensor while it is in the exhaust system is likely. With a 22mm box wrench I checked the fit on the brand new sensor, and it fit perfectly, so I know it is definitely not In a situation where it is easy to reach sensors, they will work fine, but I wouldn't use them on remote sensors. This shallow offset one was dangerously close to a totally rounding off of a very hard to reach sensor that I used it on. By using a trick my dad taught me, I was able to remove it. When the car was fully warmed up, I put the oversized tool in the deep freezer to shrink it and ran it until it was fully cooled in the process. No other sensor will be used to test these tools.
The metal has too much weakness. A pair of sockets spreads out. There are too many flaws in this product. If torque was applied to any socket, it would spread. It was my adjustable wrench that saved the day. My luck was that there was just enough room for me.
It is mostly the 3/8 socket with a thread cleaning tap that I use. In general, I put some penetrating lubricant on the old sensors before I attempt to work on them
Nevertheless, the heavy metal alloy is not easily damaged. I think it would be an immense benefit if the makers machined the tolerances instead of using rough tolerances made Would it be possible to use a CNC milling machine for a finish run and improve the I would prefer if the 1/2 drive 22mm O2 socket was not shaped like a star so more points of wear can occur However, a square can grab anvils or hand ratchets because of its large surface area.
I had to let the engine run for about five minutes before it worked. After liberally spraying plenty of PB Blaster on the old sensor, I let it sit for about ten minutes, and then applied a little force until the 18 year old 170,000 os sensor broke free. The set is the ideal tool for removing and replacing any O2 sensor on a It took me no time to install the new one.
It was easy to remove the old sensors with the chrome split socket. My next attempt required 45 minutes of fumbling with one of the new sensors, including checking the pitch and size. It finally occurred to me to use the thread chaser, which did a great job of cleaning things out, after which the new sensor just glided easily in place. We decided the new sensors were too fat to use the chrome split socket, so the Crow's Foot worked great. I like that I have a 3/8 Crow's Foot for fitting into tight places, and a 1/2 Crow's Foot if the situation calls for it. It was well worth it for me to purchase this kit.
It's made from a soft material, which makes low-profile sockets. The only kind of socket that would work is an extra deep socket, even then it can only be used for a limited number of applications due to its length of over 3". My personal opinion is that low profile sockets are worth nothing. The sensors are soft, but when used with significant force, they bend, open up, and round off the hexagonal shape of your sensor There is not a design flaw oxygen sockets must be cut out on one side, but the material in which they are made is poor. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
Liquid wrench was sprayed on the oxygen sensor to help it loosen. I had no issues with the tools. It probably didn't need to be cleaned with a thread cutter, but it certainly wasn't necessary. In any case. This product is strong and durable.
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