Titan 85510 Automatic Brake Line Cutter, 3/16-Inch Brake Line Cutter

A 5 stars rating would have been given, but "OP1" was laser marked to point to the second end of the operation While I was scrambling for hours to figure out what I was doing wrong, I lost a few hours screwing around. Whenever I learn something the hard way, I learn the lesson Thanks for reading! I hope to help someone else with my knowledge!.

Callum Collier

| Dec 13, 2020

Submitted and approved! The following review is for Titan's 3/16 tube flaring tool. I got it while at a show and grabbed some of my favorite copper clad steel/nickel tubing to see how well it worked. Let me start by spoiling the bottom line first. Worked like a charm! I am very pleased with the quality of the parts. A forged or cast main clamp gives an impression of being of very high quality. There are no crappy looking threads. It is rather uncommon to see female threads which pull the die in as they are solid one piece designs that you will not see on the other hand-held have tested it a dozen times, preparing the tube in different ways and using a double flare and a bubble flare as well. As a first step, I cut the tube with a tubing cutter and formed a double flare I did not file or deburr the tube end. I love the way it looks. Following the filing of the end and deburring of the I, I tried it again. I think it looks even better now. After just deburring the I, I made a double flare, and the bubble flare had been a pleasant surprise. After looking over them and inspecting them for wear, I found they all appeared to be in good condition. In the pictures, you can see that the black oxide on the forming has wear off a little bit, but otherwise it's in perfect condition. It is important to recognize that the bubble flares this tool produces have tapered backs. Flat-backed ISO/metric flares are typically found in the metric system. The flares I equipped with tapered backs did not leak when I put them in place of ISO bubbles. You will feel the flare reform to the fitting as it begins to give when you tighten the fitting. It will feel solid when the reforming process is completed. We would like to share some tips from years of experience in Make sure the threads of the forming tools and the ends of the forming dies are lubricated. A small container filled with what appears to be lubricant or grease for wheel bearings is left behind for you. The oil or grease that I find works is any heavy oil. The flares on your tool will not be good without lube, and your tool will wear out very You need to use a box ratchet to clamp the tube and the die tool. Rather than using long strokes with the ratchet wrench, it is easier to use short ones with this tool because you will need to hold both the tool handle and the In order to use this tool, I drilled out the hole at the end of the plastic handle and inserted the positioning plug into that hole. The tool did not come with a case because only one piece was left unattached. So I don't need to hunt for any extra parts when I throw the tool into my brake tool drawer. The following photos are to accompany this description You can see how the tool looks when it is opened. In their ads, this is never shown.
Next, we have to consider the condition of the tube before it is flared. Here is what the side profile looks like. Here is what a bubble flare looks like. It is evident that the back of the piece has been It is an ISO 4 standard. It should still work on ISO/metric fittings. The 75 bubble flare has a flat back side, as it's actually flat on the front. A side view of the bubble flare is shown next. In the following two pictures, you can see the dies after a dozen flares have been applied to I made three flares. Below are photos of them. The following is a list of entries from The ends of double tubes were cut with a tube cutter with no prep Deburr after filing and filing after filing Ideally double after just inside the deburr (best) After inside of tube end has been deburred, bubble flare appears. I have a photo showing how I stored the positioning plug for the final photo.

Callum Pena

| Jun 04, 2021

There have been a lot of flaring tools of various price ranges that use the "clamp thing" that uses wing nuts and they each left lines and crimp marks on the line and even had some ends that looked non-concentric. Sometimes the brake lines can slip in clamps, especially when stainless steel lines are used. There was no damage on the stainless tube, and I had a perfect flare. This tool has an extended clamping area that doesn't need teeth to hold the line from slipping even with stainless, and the stop bolt minimized any guesswork concerning how much of the line to stick out. Another thing I noticed is that the material of this thing appears to be made from some forged steel, there are no sand casting marks, and it seems fairly heavy for its small size. Furthermore it comes with some nice "actually rated" grade 12 feet. The 9 bolts can be clamped firmly and you won't have to worry about the threads or the piece of steel being gauled. Using the lube that comes with it is a good idea because you will have to crank them down. You can also use a small washer to prolong its life. In addition to the having super smooth threads, the threads did not get chewed up after just one use like I have seen on other forming tips. I believe it is made of some kind of hardened steel since it threads in all the way smoothly. It's also pretty ergonomic as it fits right in the handle and makes fixing lines on cars a breeze if you don't have a vice at hand. Great tool for doing brakes once in a while so you don't have to spend $2 to $30 to fix them The results will be superb if you spend $300 on a professional one.

Kendall Kim

| Jan 16, 2021

You are going to love this tool! Making hard brake lines has always been a challenge for someone who has worked on cars for 35 years. Basically, I was needed to replace a section of two hard lines on a 2003 Mini Cooper, but I only needed to replace a section of two hard In that case, I would need a piece with the right ends so I could attach the new lines to the existing ones with bubble flares, and I would also need to create new ends on the cut lines so I could affix In the past, I have not been able to do bubble flares well. I had to work on lines still connected under the car with the tools I used in the past. I'm using Titan tools to fix the problem! By using only the OP1 side of the anvil, I was able to create bubble flares with perfect shapes and no leaks. It was fairly simple to bend the new lines with the tool in a vice, and it was also relatively easy to bend the lines still connected under the car. You can use this 51535 for bubble, and double flares on 3/16" brake line, which I have seen at shows, and used myself.

Quinn Harmon

| Aug 21, 2020

My impressions of this tool are really good. It is unclear to me whether or not obtaining a more consistent result would be possible using the other style double flair tool (the one with the bar, anvil, and screw press). Consistency was one of the biggest issues I had with those style flair tools. In order to get a good flair, there are too many moving parts that have to work together. There is little room for error with this tool, and it is much simpler. It is so intuitive to use, I didn't feel the need to practice using it on a newly bent line. My first flair using this tool (pictured) came out great. I can't imagine going back to my old style after using this tool.

Deandre Juarez

| Oct 29, 2020