Associated Equipment 6205 800 Amp Clamp Kit
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In the manufacturer's catalog, it is specified to be used with 1/0, 1, and 2 gauge electrical There are eight (8) pairs of these in stock at ToolSource today When placing an order before 2 p.m., please Until 200 pm Eastern Time, we ship the same day (incl. Items available for purchase from stock). I am Shari, Product Manager at ToolSource
We have two clamps in total - one red and one black.
Their jaws are made from solid copper.
They will, we have used them to jump start a wide range of RV models with a wide range of
Selected User Reviews For Associated Equipment 6205 800 Amp Clamp Kit
There is a lot of weight on these clamps- I have the duty to I've never seen anything like it - I've never seen anything like it They work perfectly well with 1/0 welding cable, though trying to get a cable that large past a spring-loaded clamp is a challenge due to the strain relief springs in the handle. If I had used a 2/0 or larger cable, I would never have had the chance to do it. In the "For cable AWG" section, it says 1 / 1 / 2 / 3 they're being serious. I am sure I could have made this project much easier had I used a 1AWG cable or 2AWG cable, but I was trying to make the beefiest set of cables I could. I would like to mention a few things If you're unsure of how to use the clamp, follow the directions on the back of the package (I'll try to provide a photo) and make sure to insert the cable through the open clamp before you strip the end and attach It is necessary to secure the clamp in an open position to be able to accomplish this. As it went, I used a 13" piece of paracord tied into a fisherman's knot and with that loop I had a length that I could wrap an extra time on the handle opposite of the cable hole so that the cord would stay in place better and not slip out. I will try to post an image of it so you can get a better idea of what I'm referring to. In the end, you might just find it easier to keep your clamps open with something else like duct tape or some other kind of tape. In the instructions, it says that pliers or a vise should be used for crimping the jaws to the cable. ) to start the bend on each tab, but I must Honestly, I doubt that I would have been able to crimp the wire with just pliers. Would I have been able to do it if I had a 16" or 20" set? I crimped the wire using a bench vise after folding the tabs over a tad and leaving just enough space to insert the stripped cable end. This was not an easy crimping job even using a bench vise. A propane torch was then used to solder the connection after a solid crimp had been obtained. In addition, the jaws had to be secured to the clamps, which was a bit tedious. In step 3 of the instructions, remove the plastic bag, and repeat step 4 I am not sure how well 'figure #4' shows it. Using channellocks, I securely pressed the cable back into place after pulling it back into place so that the hole in the jaw lines up with the hole in the clamp. So as not to mar the epoxy insulating finish of the pliers, I placed a rag between the handles and the pliers. It might be possible to crimp the end of a cable smaller than 1/0awg with the clamping jaws' plastic sleeves still attached, but only then could I get the nut to catch the thread of the little screw as I pressed it into place. Once that happens, it's a bit of a struggle to have it When you tighten the screw with a flathead screwdriver, the acorn nut will sink into the hole in the handle. The point at which you can no longer hold anything on the nut to keep it from turning signifies that you are Well, I hope I have not scared anyone away by making it seem like it isn't worth it, because it is most certainly worth it. Now I have a set even better than my last 25' 1Awg set that lasted me for more than two decades before one of my family members apparently "borrowed" them (without asking permission first) and they have never been So long as I don't let anything like that happen again, I suspect these will be the last pair of glasses I ever need and will serve me well in every foreseeable scenario. Please allow me to express my gratitude for your time reading this review. Adding a comment would be useful if someone has any questions or better suggestions than what I provided.
The clamps you get here are likely to be the best in the market. Copper lugs that need hammers to close are so heavy that they can be done in a vise. If you use these enough, you can throw away your portable hand exercising devices, because they are so strong, ensuring your jump start will be solid. If you are jumping something, like a car at night or in bad weather, you want to make sure that the job is done quickly and that it does not take too long to figure out that the wires are All these will ensure a fast and efficient completion of the project.
There are no better clips for Pro class folks who want the best! They have pure copper jaws that solder to wires and very strong jaws that make great contact. I don't use jumpers very often, but when I do I buy these. A cable and clamp that do the job is what I need! There are simply no words to describe how fantastic and wonderful these tools are. They belong in any tool set where AWESOME! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!.
Solid clamps with a good grip. Since the 1-inch mounts aren't wide enough, I didn't have a firm grip on my oversized "military" terminals The cables were too thick for these clamps to grip, and every time they slipped off, they chewed gullets in the lead. It's not their fault, but these springs are as wild as There are many copper teeth, and they are all over the place, making clamping them onto the cable a pain. In the instructions it says to use pliers (HAHAHAHA) or a vise (only a large one) and I ended up using a 30 ton hydraulic crimper after starting them with a vise. Great clamps but You can use the Parrot clamps with copper teeth if you're not running more than a couple hundred amps and you're just charging regular cars.
The contacts on my new cables have a type of male to female V design that opens very wide. Copper plating is a waste of money. It is copper, so there will be no rusting and the clamps are completely covered with rubber dip, so no corrosion will occur.
The contacts have a type of male to female V design that grips the battery terminal very well, as well as opening very wide. It is somewhat of a process to connect them to Usually to crimp a copper contact, which is pretty thick and large, you need to use heavy gauge copper. There is a heavy duty set of crimpers I have By crimping them with them, a vice, and a hammer, I eventually obtained their shape. It can also be a challenge to secure the contact with the small screw. It's definitely a 5/5 when it comes to To get them on the cable, I have to put in a little bit more effort than I anticipated.
This jump starter is made of a very sturdy material and should last for a long time. Paired with a piece of #1 or #2 gauge welding cable, they should jumpstart almost any kind of A. LATEST UPDATE We have used this company several times to help out friends of ours and they have not disappointed. Despite having to exert a lot of force to open the clamps, they grip extremely well to the terminals. clamps have an extremely durable coating and should last for many years. I am very pleased with them.
The cheap junk jumper cables available at almost all big box stores were so disgusting to me. This clamp was purchased and mounted on the ends of a copper wire welding cable 2 gauge. It's best to use a torch and some resin core solder for soldering the connections. The clamps are of great quality. It is better to buy once and.
This is the best website I have This is used to make new jumpers and to replace old ones. It can be used with 1/0 and 1Gage. Ensure that the cable is fed before stripping. I soldered the end with a crimping tool and used a garage door cable crimping tool to snap the end on.
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