BlueFire Motorcycle Security Kit Alarm System Anti-Hijacking Cutting Off Remote Engine Start Arming Disarming
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Questions & Answers
Yes, you can connect red to positive and black to negative and it will work; the other wires aren't required for the alarm to function.
It is possible to remove the key stock. You could mount the R1 key into the key holder by cutting off the handle from the R1 key. So, yes, in a twisted way.
To test the remote, unlock and lock it; the nine volt battery is not used; instead, the red and black wires are connected as a backup for alarm when the motorcycle's 12 volt battery runs low.
Selected User Reviews For BlueFire Motorcycle Security Kit Alarm System Anti-Hijacking Cutting Off Remote Engine Start Arming Disarming
for anti-theft scooters! Generally speaking, you can attach it and play using the back end under the passenger compartment, because it's plugged under the front light right behind the front panel and is capped, and there will be no cables, wires, or obstructions in front of it so you can operate it. I have a flat slide carb on my scooter, so the remote start doesn't work in the cold, but normal starting is difficult in the cold. Also, there are two remotes, one of which has a key blank. I took the key blank to Wallmart and they put it in the machine, but when it copied my original key, it was just a little too long, so I used a file to cut a little off the end and it works fine. If you don't want to mess with that,.
However, after watching a few YouTube videos and building up my confidence, I was able to install it on my own. It is extremely simple to accomplish. This alarm is a cinch to set up and use. The remote has a long range and makes a lot of noise. The motion sensor functions as expected; rain and wind will not activate it, but it will activate if you touch it or move the scooter in any way. The fact that I was able to duplicate my key onto the remote is a huge plus. My scooter keys have taken on the appearance of car keys. This is something I would strongly recommend to anyone looking to give their motorcycle or scooter an extra layer of protection.
Overall, a fantastic purchase that I would make again if the need arose. I'm only going to use it for the alarm, and I'm not going to use the remote start or the lights hookup. The advantages and disadvantages include: PROS: br>br>
- Simple to set up (only the alarm)br> Quite loudbr> - br>Remote controls that work wellbr> Bumper sensitivity is excellent. br>br>CONS:
- It appears to be inexpensive ($20, so I can't really complain)br> - The instructions are AWFULbr> - The key ring clip is a waste of money (mine broke after only a few days)br>br>I gave it a 4/5 because of the instructions. It wasn't difficult for me because I'd previously installed these types of alarms. Just for the alarm, here are the steps I took: 1. br>br> Decide where you want the sensor and alarm to go (for now, don't use the adhesive)br>2. Remove all wires from the pigtail except the black and red ones (clip with non-connected wires) - This is optional; it simply ensures that you don't have a slew of extra wires lying around. br>3. If the pigtail wires are too long or too short, trim them or extend them. br>4. Both the black and red wires on the pigtail should have crimp ring terminals (they should be large enough to connect to the battery terminal screw blocks)br>5. br>6. If necessary, apply adhesives. Connect the pigtail to the sensor and clip the alarm to itbr>7. Connect the pigtail's red and black wires to the battery (red to positive, black to negative) - **Make the red/positive connection first*
8. UPDATED 4/18/2019: Test your remotesbr>br>UPDATE 4/18/2019: br>Recently, the alarm had been going off at random intervals. It usually goes off just a few seconds after I arm it, which is extremely inconvenient. It's also gone off without being touched a few times in the middle of the night. I'm most likely going to toss it and invest in a reliable alarm system. br>br>UPDATE: June 22nd, 2019: br>Once armed, it never stops going off; I haven't used it in a long time.
Unlike disk brake locks, which only prevent a bike from rolling away, this one will really surprise someone because it gives an initial short alarm if you just tap the bike. It did go off a few times while I was standing in front of it during a light rain, but only when I was close to it. It's possible that the sensitivity of the remote control is to blame. I won't be able to go without it in the city because I don't have anywhere to store it unless they send me one and allow me to install it and return the old one. In any case, the alarm sounds a brief warning, but if you sit on the bike, the alarm will sound again. A new type of alarm will begin to sound, one that is a little louder and more panicked. It claims to have a half-mile hearing range, but I haven't tested it yet, and I doubt it will be accurate in a city setting. br>br>First and foremost, I'd like to thank those who suggested turning off the remote start because the remote, being sensitive and finicky, could pose a significant risk while riding on the highway or city streets. br>br>My main complaint is that the instructions are way too difficult to follow, and the diagram is inaccurate because it can fit on so many different bikes that it's impossible to tell which wire goes where. Fortunately, I had some previous experience stripping and connecting wires, but not having proper instructions still causes anxiety. I didn't want to sodder because I wanted to be able to easily remove the wires if I needed to service the battery or run other wires, and it's also nice to be able to just pull everything and move it around. I also didn't want to cut any factory protection on any prewired parts of the bike, which I would have had to do to access the turn signal wires. After removing the majority of the frame and realizing that I was going to have to live with the noise, I decided to just throw it out the door. The last thing you want to do on a new bike is cut a wire and void your warranty, or worse, mess up a vital operating function because the colors don't match up to what you need. With all of this in mind, the item should be cheaper, but I was pressed for time and couldn't argue. br>br>I'm still trying to figure out if that spare key for my bike can be cut, but it doesn't appear to be possible. I'm sure you'll be able to weld a spare onto a nip after removing the majority of the existing key. There appears to be enough room for that, and that remote appears to be more durable and less cheap than the red and black one, so it may be less finicky. The red and black one, on the other hand, is slim enough to fit in my jacket pocket if I don't want to carry a bag. My instructions are as follows: br>br> br>1) Keep the wire integrity by zip tying all of the extra nonsense connected to lights and remote starts. (There is no need to cut anything; simply connect the circular speaker to the square electronic box. ) br>br>2) Remove 2 inches of the red and black wires' casing. br>br>3) remove the screw from the black side of the battery connection, then the screw from the red side. br>br>4) wrap the wires around the screw one time, twist tight in the opposite direction, then smooth down any sticking up wires. br>br>5) (If your bike is like mine, you'll need needle nose pliers to hold the bolt in place, or a piece of card board folded a few times to provide straight backing that won't move the bolt while you're trying to screw it in) Using your rubber handled philips head screw driver, gently and evenly turn the screw clockwise until tightened while simultaneously taking care to stop occassionally to unravel the cord as it gets a little tangled (You don't want anything twisting or obstructing the current)br>br>6) Repeat step 5 for the Black side, and the speaker will make a small click sound. That's how you'll know you've got a good connection and are ready to go.
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