LuK LMC607 Clutch Master Cylinder

It was a lot easier to set up than I had anticipated. It was fairly simple to install, and it has worked as well as the original for the past two days. br>br>I Googled "370Z clutch master cylinder how to," but it's obvious how to remove and reinstall it just by looking at it. Tips: br>br> br>Before you begin, drain all fluid from your old clutch master cylinder (CMC). br>DO NOT get the fluid on your paint! Buy "brake clean" to quickly clean up drips/spillsbr>Use a curved pick to pull the cotter pin where the clutch pedal attaches to your CMCbr>Remove the nuts behind your clutch pedal with 2 extensions and a swivel with a 12mm deep socketbr>The rubber gasket that goes between the old CMC and firewall will need to be re-installedbr> used on the new CMCbr>You can remove the forked piece from the new CMC before passing it through the firewallbr>Attach all lines (and reattach the little fork if it was removed) before bolting the new CMC tightly in placebr>A little tape on one surface of the 12mm nut (or even a small piece of paper towel wedged between a surface of the nut and socket) will make the nut sit firmly in the socket to get it It must be extremely tight to avoid leaking. You can probably get away with using a standard 10mm nut, but be careful not to strip it. br>The little fork that connects the CMC to the pedal can be adjusted. It had to be nearly all the way out on mine. Once you've determined the length, tighten the lock nut. br>Gravity bleed the system, then have someone get in the car and pump/pump/pump/hold/release about 5 times to remove the air. You can look it up on the internet. br>br>From start to finish, it took me less than 2 hours, and I worked at a leisurely pace. br>br>If I have any problems with this CMC, I'll update this review.

Xzavier Lamb

| Dec 05, 2021