ACDelco GM Original Equipment D1405B Ignition Switch
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It will fit as long as it has a tilt steering wheel. If you're not sure, D1404B is required for the tilt.
It's difficult to troubleshoot electrical problems from afar, but after replacing the next link, I'd check for a short to ground with a self-powered test light or an ohmmeter before connecting the battery. A fusible link would blow if there was a direct short - That is why they are present. If you don't see a short right away, begin moving wires around until you do. Continue looking because you know it's there. It would be best if you had a light, and someone to keep an eye on it while you shook suspected wires around. Best of luck!
It only works on a 1987 Monte Carlo SS with tilt wheel, as far as I know.
Selected User Reviews For ACDelco GM Original Equipment D1405B Ignition Switch
This item is inserted from the bottom. The dashboard and steering column do not need to be disassembled. To make room for yourself, remove the steering column support bracket. Remove the electrical connector for the brake switch as well as the high-voltage power supply. a plug for the beam Once the fasteners are removed, removing the ignition switch plug is easier. The switch is mounted on the column's top. The high- piggyback beam switch The ignition switch is backed up. To take out the two screws, I used an 8mm offset ratcheting wrench. The screws aren't the same, as you can see in the diagram below. After the first two screws have been removed and the high-tension cable has been disconnected, When you remove the beam switch, you'll notice a third screw, a No. 2 Phillips head, on the underside of the high- a switch for the beam Sneaky. I made use of a right-handed typewriter. For that, you'll need an angle driver. A short screwdriver might suffice. You might want to mount the high-resolution camera after reassembly. Because the fore screw is self-locking, temporarily connect the beam switch to the ignition switch before putting it into position. putting my hand on the body of the ignition switch Making those threads before going under the dash is easier. The high- By pressing the switch down after it has been fully installed, the beam actuator rod can be installed.
Years ago, I ordered a different switch from Standard, but no matter how I adjusted it, it would not provide both start and accessory functionality. This is a True Tilt GM Ignition Switch, and it solved the problem. br>There are some distinctions between the Tilt and Non-Tilt. Pay attention to which one you order if you're looking for a tilt switch. br>Perhaps someone put a non-essential item in the mix. I thought there was another issue with the car being used, such as the wrong gear I bought to replace the broken one I installed at the same time and was not going to try and tear it apart and correct for just the accessory function because I bought the tilt specific model back then. Having this with me now I no longer need switch, switch to accessory, pull out key, and open music while I am going inside to pay, is just as good. Switch runs smoothly, easy installation and easy with alignment pin installed. In locked position all you need are the gears on Was around a ten-minute ride. I've done dozens of 15 million jobs in GM A-bodies over the years.
I thought it was the starter solenoid at first, then the ignition switch after some investigation. The switch that is activated when the key is turned, not the ignition lock where the key is inserted. Between the dash and the firewall is where the switch is located on top of the steering column. To get to the switch, you'll have to lower the steering column! Just beneath the dash, the column rests in a cradle. The two cradle bolts can only be accessed by removing the bottom part of the dash under the column. Lower the column slowly after removing the bolts. When you find the switch, you'll notice that it's piggybacked onto the ignition switch! Before you can unbolt the ignition switch, you must first remove the dimmer switch from the way! The switch has two connectors, one black and one blue, that must be removed or unplugged, as well as a metal rod that connects the ignition lock to the switch; ensure that the ignition is locked. Before fastening the new switch in place, I recommend that you first plug it in. The switch was replaced in under 30 minutes. It was 95 degrees and very humid when I worked on this auto repair, so it wasn't fun, but I was glad to hear the old truck start up again! I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have about the switch replacement!.
It made me feel a little uneasy. I was told by a locksmith that he would rather install ten ignition locks than one ignition switch. It wasn't as difficult as I had anticipated, and I now have a web of wires running beneath my column from a remote start and an alarm. Overall, it was a fairly simple process that took about 45 minutes and worked flawlessly; if you have large hands, it may be a tight squeeze, but otherwise, everything should go smoothly.
When you cycle through the options, there are no audible clicks. Perhaps the previous one had simply become obsolete. br>br>I gave it four stars because it fixed the accessory slot (by turning the key backwards).
My truck wouldn't start, so I bought this ignition switch, installed it, and the truck started right up.
The Amazon recommendation engine isn't all that great - My vehicle had the incorrect switch. Of course, changing it is a pain, so I didn't try it until after the return period had passed, and it now lives in my toolbox's junk drawer.
It worked perfectly, fit and functioned exactly as it should, and eliminated my truck's starter delay. My 91 Chevy K2500 with the 5. 9L V8 was the perfect match. I made a mental note of the part number for future use.
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