Original Engine Management 8841 Neutral Safety Switch, Black
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Mine was installed in a 1999 Ford Mustang.
You can find more information on "shift lever problems" by Googling. The problem may be with the syllables. The bit must be a T30.
Selected User Reviews For Original Engine Management 8841 Neutral Safety Switch, Black
The Dealer wanted to charge me $140 for this switch, but I was able to purchase this device for $42 from Amazon. The transmission range sensor (also known as the neutral safety switch in some countries) for the 2004 Lincoln Aviator is of high quality. Numerous functions are performed via the switch, such as the activation of the backup lights, the neutral safety switch and gear selector lockout (without having to activate the foot brake). Leasing the 21MM nut on the transmission shifter shaft was the most difficult part of swapping out the switch. WD-40, wire brush, and a little bit of wire It only took 40 seconds and 5 minutes for the nut to come By first removing the nut, you can remove the shifter lever, then it's time to remove the 8mm bolts that secure the switch to the transmission side. Connect the wire connector to the new switch and remove the old one. Replace the old switch with the new one by reversing the above procedure. Easy as pie!.
A rotary switch like this is used. A lot of them don't work, and some of them do. A fairly simple solution, this slides on the transition, locks the bolts, and plugs in. The switch was easy to replace and works perfect. It took me less than 20 minutes to do it.
We were able to fit this perfectly into our Ford F-150 This Lariat 2005 model weighs 150 pounds. The installation was very easy, and immediately solved our issue of the truck not wanting to start in park or go in reverse without several tries (we had to find the right balance between neutral and drive and neutral and reverse in order to get the truck started and moving).
I installed the Original Engine Management 8841 Neutral Safety Switch quite easily (barring the fact that I had to remove the jack and crawl under the truck), but it did not seem to resolve the starting issues with my 1998 Explorer. About a year ago, sometimes it would not start (the engine would not turn over when it was turned on). When it happened suddenly, it would sometimes start again if you tried again or waited a while before you turned it on. After almost being stranded one time, I finally took the truck to a repair shop, but after several days they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It was noted that this could be caused by several things, including the starter relay, the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, or the actual starter. Having thought the ignition switch might be the problem, I replaced it. There was a short period of time when it seemed that the problem had been solved, but after a few days, it returned. After I had tried everything else, I finally tried moving the shifter from Park to Neutral and During the next month, even though it would fail to start (which was now about 50% of the time), I would just shift to Neutral, and it would start. It was obvious that there was a malfunction with the neutral safety switch, which I ordered as a replacement. Despite the difficulty of the installation, it did not take long The wiring connector was removed from the old switch, as was the nut holding down the manual shift lever, which in turn was removed, along with the two 8mm bolts holding the lever in place. Removed the old shifter shaft by sliding the old switch off. On the new shifter, I aligned the Neutral position marks as best as I could, then slid it on the My next step was to ensure the marks were still oriented correctly, bolt the frame down, and reconnect My next check was whether the engine started in both Park and Neutral, as well as whether the backup lights came on when I changed into reverse. I tried to start the truck once more (in Park), but it wouldn't crank after I let the truck back down from the jack stands. The motor would still crank in Neutral (then as well as ever since). My latest test on the switch observed that before I replaced it, the engine would crank about 50% of the time in Park, but with the new switch it now only cranks maybe 10% of the time. A 20% discount. As a result, it appears that the new switch (like the 18- - the one that's over a year old) has intermittent connectivity the truck always starts in Neutral and it's a pain to jack up the truck and crawl underneath to get to the switch, I'm not going to go to the trouble of returning the new switch for a (potentially less-efficient) The following update was published on January 14, 2017 As a result of the mountain- I'd like to hear from my mechanic brother about this (and the people who suggested it to him! ) I tightened the two bolts that attach the shift shaft to the lever arm which links with the cable, and that resolved my starting problems, as well as some other issues. Apparently this is a problem with almost all Fords that is a result of poor In addition to working on the neutral safety switch, I learned the following My Explorer (and probably not other Ford trucks) didn't need to be jack-up to access the neutral safety switch - it was accessible without jacking it up. In the case of an apparently normal person You can find a person of any size. I don't have to jack up the truck and set up jack stands so that saves a significant amount of time on this job.
I was very happy with how well it worked. For help on how to install and uninstall the new one, I watched a YouTube video. If you want to get under the truck, you may need ramps or jacks. You need to take care. However, it was a very fast job.
Fits with no problems, looks like it will work for most Ford products, according to what I found online instead of ZZNO- it will work for the mazda replacement cross.
Exactly what I wanted.
I expected it to fit better but it didn't. It was too big for my mechanic to use.