Pro Chaser DC-DC Golf Carts RVs 48V 36V Volt Voltage to 12V Step Down Voltage Reducer Regulator for Headlights Taillights Solar Panels Radios (10A 120W)
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Questions & Answers
Connect the power and key switch wires to one leg of the switch by tying them together. Then go to the power block by exiting the other leg of the switch.
Mine were labeled, but if they weren't, get in touch with the company.
Yes, most likely. All of the accessories' power requirements must be known. The power consumption of this unit is 300 watts. The majority of them are rated for less power.
No, that is not correct.
Selected User Reviews For Pro Chaser DC-DC Golf Carts RVs 48V 36V Volt Voltage to 12V Step Down Voltage Reducer Regulator for Headlights Taillights Solar Panels Radios (10A 120W)
It's definitely not as watertight as they claim. Used to power led lights on a golf cart. I like that I can turn it off when I don't need it to save battery life, and that I can add circuits for a radio or other doo-dads if I want to. I wired it in a small fuse block and can add circuits for a radio or other doo-dads if I want to. dads. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> It is now July 5th, 2020 (unit was installed in January 2020) and the unit no longer works and is shorted out. It was supposed to be waterproof, but it most certainly isn't. It was full of water and sand when I pulled it apart, causing it to corrode. It's in an area where it might get wet, but there's no direct spray. But, since it's supposed to be sealed, I figured it'd be fine. Other than around the wires, there were no gaskets or sealants when I took it apart. My cart is kept under a carport and washed only occasionally, and it still has moisture and sand in it, despite the fact that there is no salt water where we are. I'm considering trying another one (because all I have to do is plug it in; everything is already wired up), but I'll seal it with silicone before installing it. Also, moving it to a different location.
36v LifePO4 bike battery It performs admirably and maintains a 13-point regulation. 0 volts and delivers more than enough current (the small motor peaks at 15 amps). br>br>I'm relying on the water resistance (despite the fact that it's mounted in a dry-mount configuration). ish location), and everything has gone well so far. br>br>As a remote key switch and power connector, I used a four-pin disconnect (two pins shorted in the plug). Battery pack XT60 connectors (battery BMS in the small cooler).
It was very simple to install, but I didn't try it until 10 days after the return date. With the first time I switched it from "Tow" to "Run," causing a "Pop" and melting the plug, I tried running directly to the batteries, causing an explosion that welded the connector to the battery terminal before my in-home technician arrived. The line fuse has blown! Doh!.
This is what I put in my 48V Club Car. It took the place of one that I had been running for about 9 years before it stopped working. This one is smaller and less expensive than my previous one, and it was simple to put together. The instructions are simple, and it produces 12 gallons of water. Only my lights are powered by 4 volts. My headlights and taillights only draw a couple of amps, despite the fact that this device is rated for ten. So, in the future, if I wanted, I could add a radio to my cart and still have enough space. This converter appears to be a good buy in my opinion. It's hoped that it will outlast the one it replaced.
The system was installed in the fall of last year. It was a cinch to use. I liked how the key switch activated the cart's battery to prevent any drains while it was parked. I liked the connector because it made wiring and installation a breeze. For the winter, I put the cart in the garage. There are no headlights when spring arrives. The input fuse has blown, as I discovered. When I went to replace it, it blew up in a spectacular way - The contacts on the fuse were blown out, leaving my hand black. It appears to have been soldered by a drunken monkey after I opened it up and found no signs of damage or dampness inside.
When I wired it up, it immediately burned up and emitted smoke, so I'm not sure if I got a defective unit. This isn't the first time I've worked with a DC-powered device. For 48V-DC converters, I usually go for the potted ones. I figured I'd give it a shot because the built-in fuse and switch seemed like a better deal than the solid potted ones in an aluminum heat sink for 12V applications. br>br>I went back and bought another of the aluminum potted ones right away. For a few dollars more, I can add my single fuse.
The keyswitch wire was the primary reason I purchased this item, and it performs admirably. Because the device isn't turned on all of the time, the batteries won't drain as quickly. The unit is in excellent condition and produces 12 volts. A trojan battery set of (6) x 8V provides 5V. If yours doesn't work, you'll need to connect the thin red wire to the same battery voltage as your batteries. This SHOULD be coming from your key switch or your battery's ().
When the fuse was installed, it blew and began to smoke. When I took it apart, I discovered a fried transistor. Internal construction of a very poor quality; Components of bad quality As far as I can tell, you get what you pay for. I was able to install a different brand without difficulty.
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