Moog K8739T Idler Arm
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On the steering products of Moog, the warranty is limited to life. The quality of their construction is excellent. Until I find a better brand, I will stick with this one.
In addition to losing my own, I went to a hardware store that sells harden bolts and nuts. For a match, I carried the old one
The second one is this one.
The one I had was installed in a 2001 Ford I am not sure so I am not It is a good idea to check on Rock Auto website to make sure it fits your make, year, and model, if it does not appear on Amazon.
Selected User Reviews For Moog K8739T Idler Arm
When I drove my 2000 Ford F150 7700 on the highway, I noticed vibration in the front end. My heart pounded as though a wheel had come off The truck had an estimated 140,000 miles on it. The OEM idler arm was quite sloppy when I pushed on the drag link front - believe it or not From the back. It tightened up the front end and solved my balance issues at 65-66 mph after replacing the idler arm with this Moog replacement part It has slowed down to 75 mph. A nice and tight steering feel was felt. As well as the upper ball joints which were loose, I replaced the lower ones as well. It's rough sailing. The next set of parts to be replaced would be the upper control arms, even though they are not nearly as worn as the lower ball joints or idler arms. In addition to jacking up only the passenger side front and pulling the tire from side to side, you can also attempt to diagnose this problem by doing this It can be seen that the idler arms wiggle back and forth on the right-hand side As you wear the tire, you will notice the wheel rolling back and forth. If you're installing grease fittings, remember that they should be tight, but the flange does not have to be bottomed out. They may be twisted off by some people when they attempt to get them fully into the device.
Buying these and doing it myself saved me a lot of money. I was quoted more than $2000 to replace all my tie rod ends, ball joints, and idler arms at a local dealer. The 2001 F-150 had a new exhaust system It has a little more than 90k miles on it that I purchased for about $3800. In other words. Although the truck appeared to be in good shape, it had been sitting for about an In my mind, I thought I was getting an affordable, reasonable price but as soon as I saw the quote from the Ford dealer, I just about died. I still find it ironic that I just replaced all my rusted-out mufflers. I spent about $400 on Amazon and it took me six hours to do. You do have to rent the proper tools to make it easier, but it was pretty tough. YouTube has more info on it if anyone wants to learn more. The article was extremely helpful to me. My whole front end is now built with Moog and I've spent around 10k on it so far without a problem.
I installed it on a 1998 F150 2wd XL with no problem. It can easily be replaced. Put a pickle fork on the pin, remove the nut, remove the two bolts, and replace the pin. Upgrade to a new one and install it. The bolts are torqued up to 147 ft/lbs, and the nut to 66 ft/lbs. Rubber boots are included (please do not forget). Ensure the nut is advanced to line up the hole at all times, and The pin needs to be installed. Once that is done, grease it up. Also, it is important not to overtighten the It is not necessary to sit all the way together (they just need a small corner or snug). Finished!
Make sure it is greased every two months Oil changes are basically required every time. For your information Since it had never been greased, my previous one lasted more than 125k miles.
When I first noticed the steering slop, i thought it was the tie rods. I had replaced the idler arm just over a year ago so I wasn't certain it was the idler arm. It turns out that the idler arm was the culprit after all after I replaced everything else. Now my truck drives straight again because I replaced the old one with this one. It seems that just by trying to save a few dollars, I can receive the result I've wanted. There is a chance this one will last for a long time.
My 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 FX4 with the 5 and this idler arm was the only one I could find that was compatible. Currently, all 4L idler arms fit, but they would result in a scuff on the bottom of the frame rail under the passenger tie rod. Moog, thanks for making it so easy to find one!.
This must have been one of the problems it solved by giving more surface area to the balls by making the joints larger than oem parts. As the tapper shaft is the correct size, there should be no issue with the center link fitting. aren't tapped, so you can use the fitting itself to thread it or you can tap it. Since you can scream in public, I used the fitting even though tapping it lets your neighbors know what kind of words you can say.
For my 2003 Ford F150 FX4 with a 5 cylinder, this was the perfect fit. Four letters. I noticed a clunk sound when turning the steering wheel at a stop when my truck had only 41k miles on it. I was able to solve the problem with this and install it easily. It is easier to separate ball joints with a pickle fork (ball joint separator). The distance between the two bolts on the idler arm must also be measured on your old one. I'm going to call this one A 5 is. The first couple of months have been good.
I had difficulty getting the grease fittings to thread into the Idler arm, although the arm itself is of excellent quality. It took me a while to clean up the threads in the idler arm. was more time consuming to get rid of the grease fittings than putting the idler arm in place.
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