MOOG K8361 Radius Arm Bushing Kit
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This is for a set, according to our system.
There is no need to lubricate the Moog K8361. Thank you
The rubber bushing is the k8361, while the poly bushing is the k80007.
Selected User Reviews For MOOG K8361 Radius Arm Bushing Kit
150 Replaced the shocks, bearings, and ball joints after hearing a loud banging noise from the driver's side. There was still a noise, so I double-checked for any dangling body parts. When I went under one day, I noticed the arms that these are used on hanging in the hole's bottom. These were replaced, and everything is now in working order. There was no noise, and while it wasn't easy, it wasn't bad. It was not too bad loosening the drivers side arm. A trailer hitch wrench with a 1 18 box end was used. It's not the right size; it's metric, but I didn't have it in the right size. The bolt on the front arm was removed, but the spring and shock were left in place. On the splash shield and the arm, use a ratchet strap to pull it back far enough to get the threads out of the hole. It was fairly simple to put back together. Some had the band's logo on them, but mine didn't. It was fine after I reassembled it. It was a little more difficult on the passenger side. I had to use a MAPP gas torch for a few minutes to heat up the bushing bolt. After that, it came off with some resistance. Because the ratchet strap didn't work on this side, I had to resort to using a come-along. I'm going to call it a long fastening to the splash shield and axle. I was able to pull it forward without difficulty. Allowing the threaded part to return to its original position required the use of a scissor jack. After that, everything was fairly simple to put back together. It rides as if it were five years old again, as it was when I bought it.
Nonetheless, the correct orientation is readily apparent. br>br>By saying "Touchy Installation," I mean that when I torqued the nut on the end of the radius arm to 100 ft/lbs, I cracked and split the first bushing. "Cheap foreign made," I thought at first. " However, when the second bolted down without a hitch, I realized my error. br>br>It's critical that the radius arms' bolt-ends penetrate the bushing brackets as far as possible. Otherwise, you risk putting uneven stress on the bushing, which could crack and split the bushing in my case, and doing so before bottoming out the nut, at which point it can be torqued to 100 ft/lbs.
Fit perfectly on my 1987 Ford Bronco II 4x4 and eliminated the annoying clunking noise from beneath the floorboards. However, if you've never changed your bushings before, you'll need to grind/drill out the factory rivets in order to remove the radius arm bracket. Another option is to use another vehicle to pull the axle forward, but I believe that drilling the rivets and replacing them with grade 8 bolts is the best option. Everything needed to replace factory parts was included in the Moog kit. Make sure you don't throw away the heat shield on the passenger side, as it protects the bushing from the exhaust manifold and the kit doesn't come with a replacement.
That didn't sit well with me, but it appears to work well together, so whatever.
I haven't installed them yet, but Moog has been the leader in suspension parts for years (I started playing with cars in the 1960s), and the proof is in the pudding.
Replacing everything would have been a huge undertaking. He did, however, succeed in resolving the issue by tightening down the portion of the bushing that fills the hole from the backside.
The instructions are incorrect; you should not remove the wedding band if you have large tires because they will rub. The plastic on one side broke at 70 pounds, despite the fact that it was supposed to be 100 pounds. I couldn't use the new one, so I had to go with the old one.
The quality of the finished product is excellent. The issue is that they are not compatible with a 1999 E150. They're way too big, and you can't get them to fit because they're so well made.