Anchor 2987 Engine Mount
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This is for the passenger side; the driver's side has a different mounting system.
Without more information, we can only recommend Anchor part 2818 for the RIGHT MOUNT/PASSENGER SIDE.br>br>Without more information, we can only recommend Anchor part 2987 for the RIGHT MOUNT/PASSENGER SIDE.br>br>Without more information, we can only recommend Anchor part 2818 for the PASSENGER SIDE. This is approximately the right size. The 2987 is used by?% of the vehicles that use it. To confirm part 2818, call the Anchor customer service line and provide your vehicle information. 800/444- 4616
For the 2005 3's AWD, use Anchor Part 2906. Rendezvous with the 4Ls. br>br>Anchor Part 2987 is for the FWD version of the vehicle.
My motor was number three. The number 5 denotes a motor that is not the same as the number 3. I don't think it'll fit in with the other three. A motor with a rating of 8 is an excellent choice.
Selected User Reviews For Anchor 2987 Engine Mount
My 2005 Buick Terraza (the Grey Lemon) was becoming increasingly noisy and vibrating. I replaced the upper mounts, which helped a great deal but not 100%. I figured the cradle mount was most likely shot, which it was (once I removed it). br>br>Installation was a little tedious, but not too bad. br>Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands (do not rely on your jack to work underneath your car). Remove the right (passenger) wheel and the plastic shield by unbolting the top mounts. br>Although the shop manual recommends disconnecting the cat converter, I found that I didn't need to. Remove the two 15mm nuts at the bottom of the mount with a jack (a block of wood between the jack and the pan is a good idea). To undo the bracket that the mount attaches to, remove three 15mm bolts from the side and upper part of the mount. (I used a small Milwuakee M12 1/4 impact wrench for the majority of the bolts. ) This is an excellent resource. br>You may need to raise the engine a little higher to get the bracket and mount out. br>Remove the crumbling old mount from the bracket, clean off the oil, and install the new mount. br>Now comes the tricky part: reinstalling the bracket to the engine. br>This is where I had some issues. When I tried to lower the engine, it was completely out of alignment. Under the tranny pan, I used a low-profile transmission jack to help reposition things and then lower the mount (using the original jack) into place. Instead of the tranny jack, I could have probably used a second floor jack. I'm not sure how I would have gotten the engine back into position if I had only had the single jack. br>br>Insert the nuts, bolts, wheel, and anything else you took out back into place. You're good to go now that you've lowered your vehicle. The noise and vibration levels are comparable to that of a new car, thanks to this and the new upper mounts. br>br>Please keep in mind that I am not a professional mechanic or expert; this is just how I completed the task. You do so at your own risk if you follow my instructions.
This appears to be an OEM part, and we purchased it to replace the OE mount on our 2006 Chevy Uplander Ext. Due to age and a leaking power steering pump, the mount had deteriorated. The process of installation was simple enough. When I set the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral, the job became a lot easier. After removing the old one and cleaning up the area a little, I was ready to install the new one. It went on smoothly and quickly. When I get some miles on it, I'll update you.
5 . My vehicle is a 2007 Chevrolet Impala LS 3 with a manual transmission. V6 engine, 5 liters There are 170,000 miles on it. I'll be replacing the motor mounts for the first time. When I shifted, the engine made a loud "clunk" sound. While driving, the car began to vibrate (but not shake). When I took it to my mechanic, he claimed it was the motor mount, but I thought he was lying. I thought it was shocks and struts. But sure enough 43 years of experience beats me =)
The Anchor 2987 DOES 100% FIT THIS IMPALA. I'm not sure why Amazon claims otherwise. br>br>I purchased this item, and it arrived promptly. It was a game changer! Oh, my god, the car is still as smooth as the first time I drove it. I snapped a photo of the old mount, and he was dead on. It's connected to it. After 170K miles and two oil leaks, this is the state of the vehicle.
I would recommend replacing the upper mounts and transmission mount because the extra movement will only cause the engine mount to wear out faster 2008 Impala 167k. My trans mount was flat, and the upper mount bushings were a little loose. br>This exact part cost $63 at my local auto parts store, dang!.
The mount was a perfect fit for my 2006 Impala with the 3. 0L engine. The only minor issue I had was that when I received it, the engine mount appeared to be used. It still worked perfectly, and it arrived in a timely manner. Excellent value for money!.
It's trash, to be sure. It appears to be a well-constructed structure, but only time will tell. br>It's been installed on a fleet vehicle, so we should know in no time whether it's any good. br>Recent changes: It was installed in May and failed in September (fluid leaked out) after only 8,000 miles.
Excellent product; I've had it on my 2008 Chevy Uplander for a few months and it's still going strong. It's very easy to set up. This is an excellent product.
No more vibrations on my 2006 Impala thanks to the perfect fit.
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