Bore Tech Eliminator Bore Cleaner, 16 oz

This is by far the best gun cleaner I've ever tried or used! You will be astounded by the results if you follow the directions on the bottle's label verbatim. My initials are S. I've fired a lot of 44 Special lead bullets and 44 Magnum copper jacketed bullets through my W Model 629 44 Magnum revolver. Anyone who has shot both low velocity lead and high velocity copper jacketed ammunition through a revolver knows how stubborn copper fouling can be. It's also difficult to get rid of. To get rid of the copper fouling in the bore, I tried everything that was suggested (i. e. Sweet's, Butch's Bore Shine, and so on) with varying degrees of success. The majority of bore cleaners on the market contain a significant amount of ammonia in their formulations. Ammonia has a strong odor and is toxic to most firearms' metal. If you leave it in the bore for too long, it will rot. I was unable to completely remove the copper fouling from the bore of this revolver, despite following the product labels and advice from gunsmiths and firearms manufacturers. These cleaners would make a mess and stink up the place to the point where I was no longer allowed to clean any firearms in the house. I used these ammonia-based cleaners every day for over a week, and I finally thought I had removed all of the copper from the bore that I could. I was even told that there was no safe way to remove all of the copper fouling from the stainless steel, and that I would have to accept it as a fact of life. I was ordering some reloading supplies online a few years ago when I noticed that this "Bore Tech" Copper bore cleaner had received a lot of positive feedback. Although the price seemed a little high, it was comparable to Butch's Bore Shine bore cleaners and other specialty copper removers. The more reviews I read, the more eager I became to give it a try. I ordered a small bottle of copper remover and a small bottle of Eliminator, figuring it was worth a shot given that nothing else had worked. I put the order in my shop and forgot about it for a few weeks after I received it. I first tried the Eliminator on a different firearm that I was confident had a clean bore because every wet patch I ran through it came out clean and showed no blue signs of copper fouling. Because the patches I used with the Eliminator turned blue, I decided to try it on the S. W 629. I removed blue, copper patches over and over again, following the instructions on the label. despite the fact that, for the first time since it was new, the bore appeared to be copper-free This was with the Eliminator only, not the Copper Remover, so I tried it with the Copper Remover and it turned blue no matter how many times I cleaned it. Because copper is the main metal in bronze and brass, which the jags and brushes were made of, I discovered that they were dissolving in the Bore Tech products. As a result of the false positive, I ordered some jags and brushes from Bore Tech that did not contain any copper. The following cleaning will be: The patches were completely clean when they were removed. When it comes to removing copper fouling, I can't tell the difference between the Eliminator and the Copper Remover. I bought a big bottle of Eliminator, Rimfire Blend, and Carbon Fouling Remover, and I've been using them ever since. The Rimfire Blend removes lead fouling better than any other product I've tried, and the Carbon Fouling Remover is more effective than any other solvent I've tried. Bore Tech products are also very cost effective due to their ease of use and quick performance: It only takes a little to make a big difference. Each of these products has a pleasant, non-offensive odor. My wife has agreed to let me clean guns in the house once more. Due to her asthma and allergies, she is extremely sensitive to the smell of most solvents. If I open a bottle of Hoppe's on the other side of the house from where she is, she starts to have problems. Given their high performance, it's difficult to believe Bore Tech's cleaning products are safe for the environment, but everything I've read says they are. They are also unaffected by the steel, polymers, and other alloys used in most firearms. I don't usually volunteer to write product reviews, but if asked, I'll oblige. Alternatively, the product could be extremely poor or extremely good. Bore Tech makes excellent products. Their brushes, jags, loops, and cleaning rods are a little on the pricey side, but they are of exceptional quality, and replacing these items because their solvents dissolved them would be much more expensive. Bore Tech is not a company I work for, nor do I have any friends or family members who do. I have not been compensated in any way for reviewing their firearms cleaning products, nor do I expect to be compensated for this review. I just wish I'd known about them a long time ago. I strongly recommend that you try their cleaning products if you haven't already. You'll be pleasantly surprised. If you've found something that works better, please share it with us. If you know what it is, please let me know!.

Luke Glass

| Aug 27, 2021

C4 Carbon Remover, Eliminator Bore Cleaner, and CU 2 Copper Remover are three products that can be used to remove carbon from your pipes. br>I despise cleaning guns and often ignore them due to the time it takes to clean a semi-automatic weapon. I spend 3 hours on a barrel removing carbon fouling and copper if I do the entire regimen on auto DI guns, guns fired suppressed (nasty), and proper barrel cleaning of precision bolt guns. It offends me greatly. br>I've been using a variety of solvents, copper removers, bore scrubbers, and other similar products, and everyone kept mentioning Bore Tech this, Bore Tech that, whatever, I said. I was given some Amazon gift cards at work, and I decided to finally try them out. br>I recently completed a 750-round defensive carbine class, which I fired completely suppressed from an LWRC SBR. Many people are aware that suppressed shooting, regardless of whether it is a piston or not, leaves a lot of carbon everywhere. a gun that is driven I was dreading the cleaning process but decided to put it off until the Bore Tech products arrived. br>I started by applying C4 Carbon Remover to a patch and working it into the BCG, upper receiver, and barrel extension. I didn't intend to clean the barrel, so I soaked a chamber brush in C4, gave it a few turns in the chamber, and wiped down the upper receiver with a rag. I didn't have high hopes because I'm used to scrubbing with brushes and elbow grease. The rag turned black after wiping away all of the carbon. I was astounded by its effectiveness. It was only a matter of time before the carbon disappeared. I used only patches to clean the entire gun, q- In less than 15 minutes, you can make a rag, tips, and a rag. At this point, I decided to clean the muzzle, which is comprised of a Surefire CTH Warcomp and a carbon-fiber-reinforced polymer. suppressor that has been locked I can't shoot off the suppressor because I'm not at the range right now, and it's securely locked in place. I squirt some C4 on the mount, and the can slides right off after a few minutes. I finish cleaning the carbon out of the muzzle device and make the decision to go full-bore. Reverse the process and work on the barrel as well. br>I began by soaking one patch in C4 to saturate the bore, then using a nylon brush to apply 10 strokes to the bore. Patch out any absolute blackness that appears until the patches are reasonably clean. In my case, there were about five patches. Using an Eliminator Bore Cleaner-soaked patch, I repeat the procedure. The first patch, as well as the following ten, are blue. (I haven't even put the CU 2 to use yet. ) I go through the process again with Eliminator, and the patches are now completely clean. br>I made the decision to de-emphasize myself. Since I'm already here, I'll add copper to the mix. With CU 2 Copper Remover, I repeat the same soak, brush, patch process, and the patches now have a slight hint of blue. (I make use of nickel-based compounds. ) I finish with a wet patch of Eliminator to clean out the copper remover (no ammonia, so I don't think this step is necessary) and a dry patch with four more patches. Patches are completely white. (I also bore you with the fact that I bore you with the fact that I bore you with the fact that I mopped the chamber to remove the residue from the previous cleaning process) Assembled the gun and found no evidence that it had ever been fired. That's how spotless it is. I believe it took about an hour total.
Well- I believe it is worthwhile to purchase the entire system, though the CU 2 is likely overkill given that Eliminator can also remove a significant amount of copper. C4 is particularly impressive because it melts carbon fouling like butter. Cleaning muzzle brakes and DI receivers is a breeze with this tool.

Christina Crosby

| Dec 08, 2021

Before using it on my rifle, I tested it out on a 2 stroke atv piston that had a good amount of carbon buildup. I started with the Hoppes 9. For a month, it worked to convert some of the surface carbon to sludge. With the help of a wire brush, I was able to remove the majority of it. Even after 6 weeks of hoppes 9, the hard carbon build up would not come off. Then I gave the bore tech a shot. The carbon began to flake off after about 48 hours. I could not believe my eyes. Perhaps the hoppes were of assistance. However, that was enough to convince me to buy. I used this to break my TIKKA T3X lite, and it worked great. There isn't any blue, and there isn't even any copper. Repeat the process once more. Allow it to sit for a few minutes to get the best results on hard fouling, and then follow the break-in instructions. The product is excellent, and my wife appreciates the low odor/volatile organic compounds. Simply put, this is a fantastic item.

Edith Combs

| Jul 27, 2021

Declaring a "best way to" clean a barrel on an internet gun site is a good way to start a flame war. br>Believe me when I say that I have at least 8 or 10 different products on the shelf, all of which work to some extent. Since this is a BT Eliminator review, I'll start with the basics: Because bronze brushes leave the telltale blue streaks, use a nylon brush and let it sit for a few minutes. Some say it will pit and rust if you leave it in overnight, while others say it will pit and rust if you don't. I have no idea, and I'm not willing to put theory to the test with a $400 barrel. There is no guesswork here because I borescope each barrel before and after cleaning.
Pro: It's simple to use and appears to be effective on copper and carbon fouling of mild to moderate severity. There are no foul odors in the house.
Cons: Carbon with a higher molecular weight, particularly in the form of graphite. Flitz of whatever non-alcoholic variety is still required in the throat. Using a copper brush and a lot of elbow grease, embed paste cleaner. If you don't wear gloves and have any nicks or cuts on your hands, they appear to burn - It's not bad, but it irritates me. Is it the be-all and end-all when it comes to cleaning? No, but it's just as good as the rest, and there are no offensive odors.

Chris Chan

| Mar 13, 2021