BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool Removal Holding Spanner kit for Honda and Acura Engines

It has a proclivity for wanting to fall out. That said, I only used it to torque back the 19 mm bolt, and it did the job. It is not necessary to use it to remove the bolt; all I needed was an impact gun and the Lisle 77080 19 mm harmonic balancer impact socket to get it off. br>br>The professionals recommend removing the bolt with a breaker bar because they can jack up the car to a height of 6 feet. I can't. I used a jack to lift the vehicle off the ground. I used an impact gun because there wasn't enough room underneath the car to swing a breaker bar. For me, it was successful.

Madilynn Rocha

| Jan 21, 2021

This was purchased to aid in the replacement of a water pump and timing belt. This is a must-have tool; it fit perfectly and performed admirably. My 2003 Odyssey with 197k miles had no problems with the water pump. Because my pulleys and tensioner appeared to be in good shape, I decided not to buy the kit and save a hundred dollars. I also replaced the timing belt, despite the fact that the old one appeared to be in good working order. Instead of using the water pump's gasket, I used the "Right Stuff" gasket maker. I also changed out the plugs. br>br>Suggestions:

- Purchase THIS crank pulley tool (it will make your life easier and will ensure that your engine is not damaged).
- When adjusting cams, remove the spark plugs.
- Buy thread lock for the pulley on the crankshaftbr>- Anti-stretch thread br>- seize for plugs. After installing the belt, turn the crankshaft pulley "righty-righty-righty-righty-righty-righty-righty-righty tighty" twice more to make sure you still have TDC.
- After disassembly, clean the area with Walmart's inexpensive Brake Cleaner.
- To learn how to line up cams with TDC, watch a lot of YouTube videos. ***CLEAN EGR PORTS IN INJECTION MANIFOLD br>br>I finished the work on the water pump and the timing belt. I also changed the spark plugs after removing them to get the cams to TDC. The old NGK laser plugs were also a pain to work with. I expected this puppy to purr after I installed new plugs, a new pump, and a new belt. (The vehicle was running fine before I started this job. ) The only reason I was changing the water pump was because while doing my last oil change, I noticed coolant on my A/C compressor). br>br>When I first started the can, the idle seemed fine, but I could hear the all-too-common tap coming from the back valve cover area. Normally, this is just the solinoid, but it seemed a little louder than usual. There were no check engine lights on, and there were no signs of any problems as I drove around in the car. br>br>I assumed the tapping was the car adjusting to the new parts, oil, and plugs I put in. However, after about 50 miles, the idle became worse, and my engine light and tcs light both came on at the same time, and the tapping became extremely loud, leading me to believe I had damaged something in my cam shaft while adjusting timing. P0300, P0302, P305, P306, and P1399. P0300, P0302, P305, P306, and P1399. Despite the fact that the vehicle's performance was still good while driving, I had no idea what had happened. After reading several posts and watching videos, I decided to see if I had a bad coil or spark plug, because the plugs were loosely packed and out of the package when I received them from Amazon. I simply disconnected the coils to see which ones had no effect on the engine. Of course, it was difficult to tell because the middle cylinders 2 and 5 are in the middle and don't shake the engine as much as the end cylinders do (I'm sure many people misdiagnose this and buy two new coils and plugs when the problem isn't really the problem). Because the idle on 2 and 5 was so bad to begin with, it was difficult for me to tell if the engine was missing or not. I even used a stethoscope to listen and heard strange metal clanking and tapping noises coming from the rear valve cover. Finally, I unscrewed and checked the intake manifold cover, which was the next simplest check. It took me less than 2 minutes to put this together. The things I saw astounded me. I always use Chevron Gas or have Techron additive on hand in case I don't have a choice, and I know it keeps my fuel system clean, but when I removed the cover, it was a black carbon mess. My EGR ports were nearly completely shut down. I had no idea that my engine was suffocating. I cleaned, scraped, vacuumed, and wiped carbon from the manifold for an hour. br>br>I reinstalled the cleaned cover and gasket, and the car now sounds exactly like it did when we first bought it. I'll have to adjust the valves eventually, but for now, I'm going to leave it alone. I'm hoping she'll last another 100 kilometers. I also went with synthetic Mobile1 0w20 and Fram Synthetic Filter. Before the next oil change, I'll try to get to 6k miles. I've always used the non-synthetic Fram HM and Valvoline HM products.

Andy Gonzales

| Feb 08, 2021

I had to spend about 25 minutes with my belt sander cleaning up and shaping the sides of this tool, NO it's not the pulley, it's the tool. I tried to insert it into three different harmonic balancer/pulleys and it wouldn't fit, I rotated it's orientation and came to the same conclusion, it's not well formed. Sure, the tool is sturdy, but it's a semi-rough sand cast that hasn't been precision milled. So, using my belt sander and several trips to the newest pulley, I was able to obtain a tool that I could use by marking the high spots with a sharpie and then sanding them down. So it's not a good deal for the price and the extra effort I put in. I'm dissatisfied with the $17 I paid for this tool. The price dropped to $12 after I finished writing the review. I don't want to pay $90 after breaking a pulley flange with a strap wrench. Another 00 blunder.

Charley Knox

| Apr 29, 2021

br>br>The price is great and it worked perfectly on my 2001 Honda Accord. br>br>You will need a long drive extension (20" long seemed to be just about right). I looked up how to use this tool on the internet, and one helpful suggestion was to put a jackstand under the extension where the breaker bar connects to keep it from bending down while applying force to the breaker bar. On my breaker bar, I used a 4 foot long 1" black iron pipe as a cheater bar, and breaking the pulley nut loose still took some effort. br>br>Amazon recommended the "Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda" to go with this, so I ordered it. However, I was disappointed to find that this socket will NOT fit inside the Betool pulley tool's socket pass through hole. Returning items to Amazon is thankfully simple!.

Myla Crawford

| May 28, 2021

All of the repair sites are correct. br>Removing the crank and properly tightening it is impossible without this or a similar tool. If you are capable of completing the task, it is well worth the money. br>I recently completed the replacement of the timing chain on a 2012 Odyssey. br>The tool performed admirably. br>I didn't give it five stars because it's just a $2 steel chunk. br>Another unique tool that makes it difficult to repair yet another odd engine. br>All balancersbr>Could simply have a larger center core with 1/2" holes to save steel. There are no special tools required. br> br>Whatever you want to call it. br>Honda makes a decent car, and they did their best. br>Hey, the beast is still on the loose,,, isn't it? br>Here's an internet high five and a pat on the back to everyone who did it themselves. br>br>Now get out of here, you zombie, and go spend some more money on Amazon. br>AmaZombie is a fictional character created by the author AmaZombie. We're all AmaZombies, that's for sure. br>I'll have to go out and get some more. br>I need to buy morebr>I'm going to have to fill my house with Amazon. Crap.
Yay.

Duncan Tran

| Apr 25, 2021