ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15-11073 Engine Coolant Thermostat and Housing Assembly

To begin with, I'm the grumpy old man who yells at children to get off his lawn. Now that that's out of the way, when I replace a problematic part (in this case, my old thermostat wasn't opening properly and was causing the Service Engine Soon light to illuminate every few days on a 15-minute commute to work), I'll be prepared. back), particularly if it's one that's more- On most other vehicles, it's a bit more of a slog (remove the FL wheel, wheel-to-wheel-to-wheel-to-wheel-to-wheel 2-inch radiator hose, well liner, and 2-inch radiator hose bolts with a diameter of 10mm One of which was installed at the factory by a contortionist) I expect my vehicle to run better than it did before I started the process, assuming the part isn't defective to begin with. Regrettably, this component is a newer version of an older model. I guess the engines weren't burning out fast enough, so GM decided to replace a perfectly good coolant thermostat that was keeping temperatures in check. midland (i. e. the area between the Alps and the Mediterranean Sea anywhere from comfortably below, to acceptably right at, the mid mark) with one that allows my H3 to run anywhere from the mid mark to the 3/4, which is well above where I'm comfortable letting any vehicle run for extended periods of time. So, if you're as perplexed as I was, and wondering if your part was defective, don't worry- This is just another money-grabbing "burn the engine" scheme by the parts manufacturers on behalf of GM to wear out my engine. Its associated components are produced at a much faster rate. If you were among the proud few who successfully transplanted this part, kudos to you. My ASE certificate should arrive in the mail any day now, as well. Now I'm off to get some Royal Purple Ice Super Coolant from the parts store; It's always worked well for me and is my first line of defense when it comes to extreme heat.

Maximiliano Caldwell

| Mar 28, 2021

For my 2004 Colorado, I needed an OEM thermostat. My truck used to run a little over the 1/4 mark on the temperature gauge, but with this thermostat, it is now closer to the halfway mark, which is indicative of the update they did to these thermostats to bring them up to 195 degrees instead of 180 degrees. My original thermostat was stuck open because I received a P0128 code. To replace it, loosen the lug nuts on the drivers side wheel, jack up the truck on the drivers side, place a jack stand underneath the frame rail for safety, and remove the wheel and the wheel splash shield held on by six plastic clips. Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator and place it in a bucket or a catch pan underneath the truck. This will allow you to get rid of any sludge that has accumulated in the old coolant. After that, pour a gallon of distilled water into the radiator and let it drain. Remove the overflow bottle as well, drain it, and clean it. br>br>To remove the bolts, I used two 9-inch 1/4-inch extensions and a swivel 10-mm 6-point socket. Pull the old thermostat housing and hose off the truck once the bolts are out so you can get a better grip on the stubborn clamp. Make certain to get rid of the old o- If it remains on the engine block, it will form a ring. Wipe the mating surface clean with a damp cloth. Reassemble everything and fill with nearly 2 gallons of Dex- Cool, which you can also get for a good price on Amazon. br>br>I got rid of the stubborn clamp by using two regular worm type clamps that I bought at Vatozone. It's a lot easier to use than the OEM clamp. Using my long extensions, I tightened them from beneath the truck. The truck is now about 2 tick marks short of the halfway point.

Aziel Rhodes

| Mar 28, 2021

I purchased this thermostat for my 2005 Colorado (4-door) in the same way that Sparky did. At normal run, the coolant temperature appeared to be low (cyl). The heater seemed to take a long time to warm up in the winter, despite the fact that the thermostat was original equipment and the truck had around 160k miles on it. I'd get a PO128 error (coolant taking too long to warm) every now and then, and the coolant temperature would hover around 160°F. I keep a scan gauge plugged in and set the temperature to 170 F at the 1/4 mark on the thermometer. The new coolant maintains a temperature of 198-degrees Fahrenheit. The normal operating temperature should be 200 degrees Fahrenheit, just above 1/2 on the gauge. I don't know what the original 'normal' operating temperature was because I didn't get the truck when it was new, but it seemed to run fine at 165 except for the PO128, so I'm not sure. According to what I've read, shortly after 2005, GM changed the 'normal' operating temperature from lower to higher in order to reduce emissions and increase MPG. The o-ring is included in the thermostat. There is no other gasket or sealing required besides the ring as shown in the photo. R& I took a couple of hours to do this and both radiator hoses because I wasn't in a hurry. To gain access, simply remove the left front tire and splash shield. Although it would be preferable if the radiator had a drain, removing the lower hose from the rad suffices. Remove the hose from the old stat without removing the bolts; simply unbolt and remove the hose and stat together. Some hoses have a white line to align the hose with the top vane of the stat to keep it in place, but the hose that came with this stat didn't. It took some effort to get the new hose on the stat in the right place, but once it was, the stat's bolt holes lined up neatly with the engine's mount holes (hose is one-way). It's crucial to think about how and where you're going. a new stat to hose, a new stat to engine, and a new hose to the radiator done). A detailed R code can be found here. R with photos on the 355 Nation website's tech section (this truck's GM frame code is 355); how to's; performance as well as upkeep.

Ricky Ingram

| Feb 26, 2021