American Volt Electric Radiator Fan Power Thermostat Switch Temperature Sensor Thread-in Brass Probe (1/4" NPT, 140'F On - 125'F Off)
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
I am afraid this is not the device you are after, it is a simple switch. As for a combo switch/sender, I'm not quite sure if they exist if they do, I'd be keen to know about it!
Before assuming your cooling system is working okay, make sure that the entire system is in working order. It refers to the coolant/radiator mixture, the radiator/cap, the temperature sensor and water pump, as well as the These are relays which control fans. If you are experiencing fluctuations in engine temperature, search the internet for the cause. I do not experience any problems with the fan relays burning out. I wish you the best of
This would be a max 120W fan or other power device in a 12V system, if they are telling the truth. This fan kit is rated at 80W and has a 1550CFM.
In all reality, Stefan said all you need to know, but let me elaborate anyway, the current required to activate the 80-year-old legacy system is about 15 Amps. It shouldn't be more than 0* in the 90* coil circuit of a 12v auto relay. From 15 to A 2 amp circuit. There is no question that this switch can handle many times that, but you shouldn't install it directly in a 12v electric fan circuit for that reason. It is possible for automobile fans to draw 20 or more people Thermostats can handle only a maximum of 40 amps, which is certainly more than you should trust to them It is better to use it to activate a 12v automotive relay. Those of you that do not know how to wire automotive relays can find a tutorial on how to install a thermoswitch relay here Please pastebin dot com slash sKjtQ8uY at pastebin
Selected User Reviews For American Volt Electric Radiator Fan Power Thermostat Switch Temperature Sensor Thread-in Brass Probe (1/4" NPT, 140'F On - 125'F Off)
Please see " It is likely that your transmission will experience varying temperatures. In the torque converter, just as the fluid is leaving the cooling line, the fluid will reach its highest temperature. As the fluid's temperature decreases, it returns to the It's a good idea to keep your pan at the bottom of the stove because its cooler there. With a ScanGauge, you can monitor the temperature in the transmission where the temperature is a mixture of those at the bottom of your pan where the filter neck picks up fluid and those at the torque converter and valve body, where there is a lot of heat. It is ideal to have your OEM cooling system reduce your temperatures. It may be necessary to add a pan with more fluid capacity and an auxiliary cooler with a fan in some cases. It's A & B A fan and a thermostat control set for 180 degrees Fahrenheit are built into the cooler. The fan should start operating at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, so I modified it to do so. I could not use this switch because its 1/2" NPT thread would not fit in place of B&M The sensor on M's car. A fin probe was used to measure the sensor's output. Heat is dispersed from the cooler by the fins and through the fluid that flows between its plates. As a result, I took the temperature at the fins, which is not as accurate, but there was no other option. This means when the fins are in theory 140 degrees, the boat has to be straight. There is a high temperature inside the cooler as opposed to the temperature of the fins. Even though it will turn on the fan, the fluid will continue to cool. A transmission in deep trouble if fluid from the OEM cooling system is still 180 degrees after it leaves the system.
If the fluid temperature dips, check the fluid. The transmission fluid needs to be changed if necessary. The OEM spec fluid should only be used. The ATF does not apply to multi-vehicle fleets.
It works just fine, however it is extremely fragile! This is a basic, but durable putty that has been tested with good results. BE CAREFUL, because it's mostly as hard All this time I worked on bolting the mount on, then put the radiator hose it was mounted on back on the engine, then snapped it apart with my fingers. Increasing the tension. LIVID on both sides of the border. As a not so strong person, I should not be able to break this device in half by just turning it gently with my two fingers A space that is too small for three fingers. I am sure a man who is more muscular and burly than I am could shatter this thermoswitch. In any case, I will have to be sure to treat the next one like the arc of the covenant since I need a thermoswitch that doesn't have to be grounded at the threads and I can't find any other.
In an upper radiator hose on a barrel mount, this is used to signal a relay that in turn powers up an The normally open switch closes when coolant reaches the set temperature, which is around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The thread size of a 1/4" mount is fine. I love the way the fan kicks in when the coolant temperature has to be lowered. They make everything fit perfectly. This function turns off the fan when the coolant temperature is below 195 degrees Fahrenheit. This was right on target for the design. The right-hand side could have been included I'm very satisfied with the connectors, but there are some angle issues.
I liked that the sensor was separate from the threaded base. Based on the way the base was mounted, in this case it was epoxy glued to the side of a tube, so it would be exposed to a Once the sensor is attached to the base, it screws in. During assembly, I used Loctite blue on the threads and heat transfer paste on the surfaces that were coming into contact. A packet of heat transfer paste of those tiny plastic packets would be nice for your organization, because I am probably the only one in the world to possess such an.
The fan is set to turn on and off at a preset temperature.
I'll admit it's nerve-wracking to install the switch since the threaded rod is a bit small, but I found that hand tightening was enough. In the future, I intend to order more of these for use in future projects. I wish however the threaded base had a wider top to avoid the hex head digging into the surface. However, the product is otherwise perfect.
This is what I installed on my hot rod to switch on the electric fan. Due to the fact that it is a project car, I did not get it installed until a couple months later. The seller will not respond to any email requests since it has passed the return policy, which is 30 days. The only thing I want replaced is the cable. It is not my intention to obtain For this case, I guess American made doesn't matter at all.
For most of the 1/4 npt coolant temperature sleeves that you install on your radiator hose, this works great. I sent him to a work site at the right temp and he did an awesome job!.
An old beater that I had has quit working because of a broken radiator fan. The PCM circuit board was to blame for the problem, and it would require an expensive replacement. The device is mounted in the thermostat housing and is connected to the fan via its wire. This simple but effective fix is quick and easy to do.
