4LifetimeLines 25 ft 3/16 True Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, 16 Fittings Included, Inverted Flare, SAE Thread, 0.028 inch Wall Thickness
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Thank you for your interest; however, the number is zero. 028" br>br>Best wishes, br>4LTL
It's slightly magnetic due to the fact that nickel is magnetic, and it also contains a small amount of iron. To verify this, you'll need a strong rare earth magnet, such as neodymium. However, if your application necessitates the use of a magnetic material, this stuff is almost certainly insufficiently magnetic.
I used 3/16 copper-plated steel as a base. Coming out of the master cylinder on my 1968 Ford F250 front brake lines is a nickel line. It was an excellent solution. If a 3/16 wrench fits over the existing line, you have 3/16" line. The product comes with multiple fittings, so you can either reuse existing fittings if you can salvage them (which I did) or use the new ones.
Thank you for getting in touch; the fittings are made of steel. br>4LTL wishes you the best of luck with your project.
Selected User Reviews For 4LifetimeLines 25 ft 3/16 True Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, 16 Fittings Included, Inverted Flare, SAE Thread, 0.028 inch Wall Thickness
The ideal compromise between rigidity and flexibility. On my project, double flaring was a breeze with no splits. br>I connected it to an old line inside a boat trailer frame and then pulled it through like wiring. It had to pass through a few holes and twists to get there. It was a success! Steel line isn't forgiving in the least. br>I also liked the fittings that came with it.
For my truck's back, I needed a long tube. I didn't want a bunch of splices, so the parts store didn't sell them long enough. These were extremely successful. I purchased a $20 double flare tool, and this tube was simple to flare and seal. I had a few tight bends, and I was able to bend this by hand without the use of a bending tool. I was able to easily snake this through the chassis, avoiding one of the standard splice points in the process. I made certain that this tube was supported at every point on the truck that was available. It's clear that it's not as strong as the steel lines. br>br>It's been holding up well so far. I may be able to rerun the entire front and back of an old long bed pickup with just one kit if I have enough left.
I used this 3/16 line to replace all of my brake system lines because it was so much easier to bend, cut, work with, and flare than steel line, and it never corrodes or rusts like steel. The only disadvantage is that it is relatively soft in comparison to steel, so I made sure it was properly secured so it wouldn't rub against anything. When I routed it behind the front tires, I also wrapped it in a protective rock guard sheath.
After putting in ten sets of steel lines, these lines are a game changer. They are extremely easy to bend (without kinking). They have a high proclivity for flare-ups. Even if you've never done it before, putting a bad flare on them is nearly impossible. In essence, these lines turn a dreaded brake line job into a much more enjoyable weekend project. Protect your new lines with some rock protectors and you'll never have to worry about them.
Oh, how many DIY brake jobs have gone horribly wrong and ended up messy to say the least all because you didn't use a tool, or the right tool, to manipulate that brakeline to the desired ins and outs 90 degrees and 45 degrees and different configurations, and all the while your faithful belief is that no kinks will occur and everything will be almost as factory, well good luck with that. br> Well, this new copper-based brake line is a DIY Godsend for those mechanics and do-it-yourselfers who dread that dreaded day when someone says a brake job needs to be done right away. br> Well, I purchased this type of brake line with the intention of testing it for myself. I also purchased a new high-quality hand brake bending tool for 3/16 line, which is for my system. Now I'm using the old brakeline as a template to follow the contours as I bend the new brakeline into submission to conform to the old line's configuration. br> It took me a while to get used to the new brake hand tool for the first time, but after working some 2 foot sacrificial pieces as practice dictates, I was quickly promoted to semi-pro status. It's really that easy to bend this stuff with the bending tool, even at 90 degrees and 45 degrees though the br> Always double flare the ends of all brake lines; please do not use compression fittings as many have tried; it may appear to work for a while when no emergency braking is required, but we are all familiar with Murphy's law, and at the right time or should we say at the wrong time, Murphy's law will strike with vengeance, and there goes your ferrule ring sliding straight off with great force, along with all that precious life-saving brake fluid. Yes, if you get the ferrule compressed enough on copper tube, it can hold hundreds of pounds of pressure, but that's copper, and that's a no no for brake systems, and even if you could tighten a ferrule tightly on a steel tube, there's no way on earth you could compress that ferrule tight enough to compress that line to the point where it can hold those types of pressures without popping off some unforseen damage. br> Now, this copper/nickle brake line in question is truly easy as hell to work with, and it's about time. I even tried bending this stuff by hand and got acceptable bends both 45 and 90 with no appreciable kinks to write home about. It's really time to experiment with this copper/nickle maleable stuff to try your hand at it. br> Thanks, this is a definite winner for me.
This product appealed to me because it is simple to use and meets all of the necessary specifications (Straight Copper does not). Plus, the vehicle is a 2002, and I didn't want to spend too much time working with steel. I planned to replace the differential lines as well, but they turned out to be less corroded than I had anticipated. So I have an extra 17 feet of tubing. The appropriate fittings must be used. They are 10MM X 1MM threads on my vehicle, which were not included in the package. This material is very forgiving if you need to re bend it slightly, which I did. I didn't even use my miniature bender.
Other reviewers have stated that this metal is unable to properly double flare. I'm not sure if this is a bad batch, but this line isn't designed for brake lines.
This was purchased to replace a Ford Expedition's brake line. The outside diameter of this tubing should have been 3/16, but it wasn't. Because the line is just a tad too narrow, the flaring tool was unable to grasp it. Working with this will necessitate the use of a very small flaring tool. I returned it and was refunded.