Fel-Pro BS 11829-1 Rear Engine Main Seal Set
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My rear seal needed to be changed, so I bought both. save cash by choosing a less expensive oil pan gasket, but the OS34510T will surely meet your expectations. Regardless of how you do it, you'll need to replace the oil pan gasket when you replace the main seal on the rear.
My sincere thanks go out to The BS11829 information is not shown on Fel Pro A Chevy 454 requires 1 rear main seal
Selected User Reviews For Fel-Pro BS 11829-1 Rear Engine Main Seal Set
The problem has been resolved! There is a lot of information on the internet about old cranks that have a groove worn into the sealing surface at the rear. A leaking rear main oil seal can be repaired with the exact same seal, or with any other brand made to OEM specs, but this compromises the integrity of the seal. Unlike OEM (in this case, GM/1981 Chevy 350 block) seals, this is made such that the lip of the seal is offset from where it should be. A few mm offset from the lip of the seal creates a fresh surface for the seal to ride on. While worn grooves on the crank would eat through the lips of the seals in short order, the fresh sealing surface of the crank will interact with the lip seal just as it should. In any case, that's the theory. That's all I know - it worked for me We no longer have oil spots at the rear of the.
This was the first time I had purchased an item where the lip seal had been repositioned. We are about 030 miles away from the OEM. As a result, the seal will have access to a section of the main journal that was previously untapped. It was exactly what I needed, and I had no idea such a thing existed! I ordered this seal by pure accident and then realized I had failed to verify the model number after receiving it. My attention was drawn to the repositioning on the Fel Pro website. That does not normally happen to me, but this time I have been fortunate enough to experience it. That is why I pass this information on to.
In the event the seal is installed with the crank in place, it's used to slide it in. As part of the kit, you'll receive a sleek oil pump shaft retainer, the original, which was a two-piece deal, would be impossible to install when the vehicle was under the ground. shaft that comes with the kit snaps into place and locks into The design of this website is outstanding! Wouldn't it be nice if there were some directions, or even pictures? I hope no more leaks from now on!.
This was my first time submitting an application. I had to get the rear main seal repaired on my car, but I ended up- It turned out to be a straightforward and easier repair than I had anticipated It took just a few gentle pushes with a tiny screwdriver to pull the old seal from the cylinder a needle-type device Put the crank in the hole and use pliers to open it My shoehorn helped start the new seal, but the lip of the block shaved off a small amount of the seal's backside - it was not noticeable, but there might have been something to it. Before inserting the crank seal into the block, it is recommended that the lip around the crank be deburred. After cleaning the backside of the crankcase with dishsoap and engine oil, it was time to start the engine. There is one side for the Reinstalling the pan and getting access to the seal proved to be one of the most challenging parts of the job.
The pros are Item arrived on time, it was in good condition, and the instructions were included* Cons However, it did slow the leak down a bit, but it did not stop it.
I had lost my first one, so they sent me a new one with no problems. As per the instructions, the product was installed.
Replacement that is good.
A relatively steady leak was appearing in the rear seal of my '79 Vette, which still had its original seal in it. The sealing process was straightforward, just make sure you face the lip of the seal in the correct direction. If not, you'll have to reinstall the seal. I am pleased with the fact that I don't have drips anymore.