Equus 7361 2" Fuel Level Gauge, Chrome with Black Dial
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Three wires are used in this specific gauge. One lead is connected to the dash light circuit, another to the gauge's 12v power supply, and the third to the fuel tank sending unit. This gauge fits perfectly in all Chrysler vehicles, and it works flawlessly in my 1968 Dodge Dart. Connecting the gauge's light circuit is optional. I hope this information is useful to you in your application.
Verify that the 7361 is being sent from the correct address. With an ohm meter in the empty position, the sender should read 73 ohms and 10 ohms, respectively. The sender is identical to those found in VW Beatles and other VW vehicles from the 1960s and early 1970s. To connect the Gage, you'll need three wires, not including the lamp. Normally, the ground is marked. S is a signal from the sender, and goes to chassis ground. The sender must be grounded, which is usually accomplished by connecting one of the screws that secure the sender to the fuel tank to chassis ground. By simply mounting it to the tank, it could be grounded to the chassis. The signal output, which goes to the S tab on the gage, is located near the center of the sender. The tab on the gage receives 12 volts switched. You can use one ohm meter lead on the sender mounting plate and the other on the center tab to verify you have the correct sender for the 7361 if there are no wires connected to it. You should be able to find a matching gage for your sender if it reads something other than 73 ohms empty 10 ohms full (or something close).
2 1/16 inch diameter hole If you're careful, a 2 inch can be made to work with a little file work.
On a 73 Super Beetle, the fuel sending unit gives 73 ohms empty and 10 ohms full, so this gauge works fine. According to what I've read, the 75 dart has a similar range, so it should work just fine:
Selected User Reviews For Equus 7361 2" Fuel Level Gauge, Chrome with Black Dial
This gauge is a tenth of a pound. For my old CJ, I went with a 70 ohm resistor that was easy to install using factory wiring. The problem I'm having is that it reads one level with the key on 12v, but when the engine starts and the alternator puts out 14v, the fuel level rises. Although I believe the 12v reading is the most accurate, any indication of fuel level is preferable to none at all when driving an old CJ.
I have a 1986 CJ7, and I did some ohm checks at the pink wire on the back of my factory fuel gauge over a few days in between fill ups, and I was getting between 11ohms (full) and 60ohms (14 tank) at the pink wire. My tank's sender was still operational! Instead of spending $130 on a new speedometer or disassembling mine to install a new fuel gauge, I spent less than $15 on this. The needle is steady, and the readings are accurate. 12v, ground, and the pink wire that went to the factory gauge made for a simple installation. I took about 10 minutes to splice into the 12volt and ground wires from the radio, using all spade connectors on new gauge. I spliced into the dash wiper light (orange wire) to make it light up when the headlights are turned on, which is optional. I'll replace my factory gauge eventually, but this is a great back-up! This is, I believe, the same ohm range as the factory temperature gauge, so it could be used to troubleshoot the temp sender. The only drawback is that it does not include a mounting bracket.
I used the same wire from the original harness to install it on my 1986 Ford F150. At night, it's very bright and accurate. Before you buy, double-check that it matches your sending unit's ohm reading. Aside from that, I'm very pleased with the product and would recommend it to others.
This item receives 5/5 stars despite the fact that the bulb was broken out of the box. I used it to replace a very old and outdated system in my '68 bug, and it came with the correct sized wire plugs for crimping, clear instructions, and a nice build quality. Although I wish the needle was a different color, it's difficult to complain about such a low-cost replacement. It does exactly what it says on the tin. The chrome looks more like silver plastic/aluminum, but where I live, real chrome rusts quickly, so I appreciate rust-proof alternatives. br>br>The response is lightning fast, and it didn't burn out even when I wired it incorrectly the first time (I didn't notice which wire was ground and which was hot). If you only need a simple replacement, this is the way to go.
The sending unit's resistance ranges from 10 to 74 ohms, which has been verified. I tried another gauge and it was off by a long shot in the opposite direction. This metric is extremely accurate.
I . I'm not sure whether or not it works. br>I attempted to follow the included instructions, but they are extremely vague, and I have no way of knowing if I have the correct wires, and there is no guidance on how to locate them. br>There hasn't been any luck so far, but it's most likely user error.
This gauge was installed in a Ford Ranger in 1978. It was simple to put on and it worked perfectly. I believe it is correct. It reflected that immediately after only a small amount of gas was added.
Instructions are simple to follow. It appears to be accurate, and it has a pleasant appearance.
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