Zone Offroad J5006 Transfer Case Drop Kit
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There are no clearance issues because the motor mounts are the pivot point on your drive train, so moving the transfer case down an inch doesn't significantly raise the front of the motor.
On my 2001 Sport XJ, I have a 2" lift in the front and rear. This kit was a total success. My front and back joint angles are now about 6 degrees. My driveline is now operating at a fairly high level of efficiency. In my case, there is no need to change the linkages.
Yes, there is a one inch drop. I've got one, and it's great.
It will help a little, but the angles on your drive shaft will still be higher than stock, putting more stress on it. To cut a long story short, it will "work," but it will not be ideal. I'd get a slip yoke eliminator if I had a 5 inch lift.
Selected User Reviews For Zone Offroad J5006 Transfer Case Drop Kit
On paper, this appears to be a simple project, but I had a surprising amount of difficulty getting it to work. br>br>First, as mentioned in another review, the holes on the spacers did not line up with the frame rail holes on the driver's side, so I had to drill out one hole, which took a long time for me because I didn't have the right tools. If I had, I would have made the kit from scratch. Second, in order for everything to line up, I had to wiggle the cross member quite a bit. If you loosen the nuts that hold the trans mount to the cross member, it will help. After I got the drivers side in, I took the photo below. You can see how far apart the holes are, even without the spacer, which makes it even more difficult to line up. I was able to align everything and install the spacer with the help of some ratchet straps and a pry bar. Last but not least, some items are missing from the instructions, but this isn't a major issue. For example, some red loc tite is included, but the installation instructions don't mention using it. There are also eight washers, four lock washers, and four regular washers. The lock washers are the only parts of the instructions that mention them. Maybe that's why they weren't mentioned because how to use them is fairly self-explanatory. br>br>Overall, the kit is of good quality, but you should expect to put in some effort.
It was a great fit for my Jeep Cherokee from 1992. It seems to have immediately reduced driveline vibration. I own a three-bedroom house. Front leafs get a 1/2" lift with short arms, rear leafs get a 4" drop shackle and helper spring lift, and an upgrade to an 8. The rear differential on a 25" Chrysler was not parallel to the transmission. Now we're getting there.
The fit is perfect, and the hardware is of high quality. It has four bolts, so you'll need to remove two studs, one on each side, to install it. Pick up a stud remover tool as a favor to yourself! I attempted to use the double nut method, but the threads on the stud were stripped. I paid $12 for a stud remover tool at Autozone, and it was well worth it. br>br>Also, if you're going to drop the cross member on your XJ, you might as well replace the rubber transmission mount, which, like mine, will be pretty worn out. In the middle/center point of the cross member, there are four 1/2" nuts that secure the cross member to the transmission mount. These were removed so that I could use the stud remover tool to completely remove the cross member. With the cross member out of the way, the transmission mount is held in place by two 18mm bolts, and since it's so easy to replace, it's a good idea to get it out of the way now. Reinstall the cross member at the center point with the (4) 1/2" nuts but leave them loose after replacing the tramsmission mount and removing the studs. This will give you enough room to place the 1" spacers and align everything. Lining up the bolts through the spacer will be a pain in the ass if the (4) nuts in the center aren't loosened.
Although the brackets appear to be of good quality, the build quality appears to be lacking. One of these was drilled a half-inch too small. To make the holes line up with the crossmember and the frame hole, I had to bore them out. It was a quick fix, but when you spend $40 and only need to drill two holes, you should drill them correctly. If I had to buy again, I would opt for four separate pieces rather than the two included in this kit.
Due to a 2 inch lift, I was able to eliminate my vibration. I don't like how the muffler has shifted down an inch and is now bowing, but that's not the product's fault; it's just the way things are. Bolts and materials of excellent quality. To remove the studs, I had to use a pipe wrench, which was easy but time-consuming.
If you're feeling down, this is the kit for you! To remove the studs, use a pipe wrench. It was a cinch to use!.
This was a fantastic solution. But, despite the fact that I am a highly qualified auto technician with experience in all disciplines, it was a disaster. Parts of the unibody frame rails had to be cut away. Now I need to weld in the integral patches. The other two were bolts and the other two were studs (one on each side). It was not at all what the directions stated. Because three of the four snapped, I had to resort to using my snap-on tool. To knock them out, use an air hammer. So, what happens now? To attach the pieces, I had to use an air cutter to make access holes. It would have been child's play if this had not been the case. Best wishes to you.
This is the kit to get if you're going to drop your transfer case. If you use penetrating oil on your Jeep before installing this kit, it'll be simple to put together. My transfer case didn't need to be adjusted, and my driveline vibrations were no longer an issue. If you plan on doing some serious wheeling, this kit isn't a good substitute for a SYE kit, but for the average driver, it's a good option. I would strongly suggest it.
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