Denso 234-9064 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
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I'm sorry, but when you say wideband, I'm not sure what you're talking about.
To turn off a check engine light, I replaced the one upstream. There was no discernible difference in fuel mileage.
This applies to motors from the K series. Denso's website will provide you with the appropriate sensor number if you enter your vehicle's information.
Denso Without a doubt! As long as you've chosen the right one, installed it correctly, and haven't damaged it (or your car), you're good to go.
Selected User Reviews For Denso 234-9064 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
This was never the case with my 2011 Honda Element. P2A00 is the error code I'm getting. I had the first sensor replaced, but it gave me the same error as the original. Yes, I used an ODBII scanner to remove the error code, but it reappeared after a while. After erasing the error code with the ODBII scanner and replacing the original factory sensor, the error code never reappeared. br>br>I've been getting bad gas mileage, and after doing some research, I discovered that O2 sensors can go bad over time, resulting in poor gas mileage. I figured that since my Element had 110k miles on it, it was a good time to replace both sensors anyway, especially since these were significantly less expensive than the factory sensors. It's a shame that this sensor (Denso 234-1) isn't more widely used. I was unable to use 9064). The downstream sensor (Denso 234-1) is, however, 4733) functioned as expected.
For an hour's work, set aside around $700. It was simple to replace this as long as you purchased the special wrench needed to remove the old one and replace it. The Honda shop wanted $850 to replace it. It took me less than an hour, including the time it took to set up the jack stands and remove the car. br>br>The cables are held in place by a triangular bracket. One screw secures the bracket to the underside of the body. My recommendation is to take everything apart (air/fuel sensor, O2 sensor, and bracket), then replace the sensors and bracket. The bracket's clips can rust, and working under the car is difficult. It's easier to put everything back together after you've taken it apart and replaced the sensors. I hope that was clear.
Apart from the color, it appears to be accurate (it even comes with a thread protector and copper anti-seize). Installed in 5 minutes, cleared codes, and the problem hasn't returned (code P0135). This one is only for the front (grey) O2 sensor (AF mixture sensor) on a Honda Element. So far, everything has gone well. If anything changes, I'll update my review, but so far, this game has blown me away. Definitely preferable to paying $300 for parts and labor at the shop. br>br>Update day 2: The engine light came back on as I drove into work today after about 60 miles. P0420 has been added to the list of codes. The Honda Element Owners Club advised that the rear O2 sensor be replaced as well (as they work together to provide a reading to the ECU). That'll be my next purchase, I guess. I have yet to receive a replacement code for the front one, so I'll leave it at 5* (the code was P0135).
Denso was chosen because it was less expensive than purchasing an original Honda part, which is most likely Denso's rebranded version. The part was the same as the original Honda sensor that had to be replaced. The CEL went off without the need to clear the code after replacing the sensor, and it hasn't come back since.
The check engine light was illuminated on my 2006 Honda Element. The diagnostic tool was connected at the auto parts store, and code P1157 was retrieved. I looked on the internet and found that it was the A/F Ratio sensor, not a regular universal O2 sensor, and that it was the sensor before the catalytic converter. This sensor is what I bought. It came in a flash. In less than 5 minutes, I was able to replace the old one with this one! To be fair, I think the old sensor was removed or replaced before we bought the car because it came out very easily (which is unusual). Reset the check engine light at the auto part store. FIXED! If you receive the code P1157, purchase this part and install it yourself! Don't be afraid to try something new. Other sensors and brands, I've been told, did not solve the problem. Make sure you get the Denso brand; it worked for me.
In a 2006 Honda CRV, this part was a perfect fit. Unlike some generic sensors that require rewiring, the connector matched the original. the old connector should be used It also comes with a small tube of antiseptic. Compare this to a Honda branded part with an MSRP of $300 that has been reduced to $215. You could probably find one for less money, but Denso is the original equipment manufacturer for most of these parts on Japanese vehicles. BE WARNED - The front A/F sensor, also known as the primary O2 sensor, is located on the right side of the device. This is most likely the one that failed (take a look at the codes). I took both of them out of their hiding places and examined them. There is a difference between the front and back sensors. On the back, some people have been able to get away with generics, but not on the front. So this will most likely set you back $400 at the dealer ($300 for the part and $100 for labor), or you can buy this and the O2 sensor socket and do it yourself in under 10 minutes.
I should've double-checked before putting it in. I didn't realize there was a problem until I went to connect it, oops! (An important lesson was learned). Before placing an order, double-check your part number on Denso's website.
According to what I've read, Denson is Honda's original equipment manufacturer for O2 sensors. The engine light came on, and I got an O2 sensor error code. I read somewhere else that replacing the upstream and downstream sensors at the same time was a good idea, so I did it. I am pleased with my purchase, and I recommend that you use an anti-virus program. When installing the lubricant, seize it.
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