Denso 234-9023 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
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In the driver's view, Bank 1 is to the left. The engine is positioned on the right side of the vehicle. sensor 1 (air/fuel) and sensor 2 (oxygen) are located on the top and bottom, respectively.
234- Sensor number one is 9023. 234- Sensor 2 has a 9028 code.
The RAV4 from 2002 and 2003, I believe. 2 (RAV4 of the second generation, 2001-) Models from 2005) have a four-cylinder engine. 0L 1AZ- The same (Bank 1 Sensor 1) air-conditioning system is used by the FE engine. Sensor/heater for the fuel ratio. Driver Side, Top, No Color Sticker (Code p1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction) It's relatively simple to get to. Toyota part number 89467- Denso p/n 234- 42010, Denso p/n 42010, Denso p/n 42010, 9023
I show that for banks 1 and 2 according to my records. Denso 234 is the sensor number two. 4048; Denso 234- first bank, first sensor Sensor 1 Denso 234-9023 for bank 2 and sensor 1 Denso 234-9023 for bank 2. 9028 Because Denso is the OEM, you can always contact Toyota or visit their parts websites to confirm part availability.
Selected User Reviews For Denso 234-9023 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
There's a reason why the plugs on the two upper Air/Fuel mixture sensors are different. This is the correct code for the 2001 Rav4 1135 code, but it only affects the driver's side sensor, not the passenger's. The one on the passenger side comes through the hole in the heat shield, while the one on the driver's side is to the side. I'm not going to confuse right and left terms, but "driver's side" refers to the American version, not the UK version. Also, the connectors differ, so if yours doesn't fit, it's because you're putting it in the wrong hole. I found a few people who rewired their sensor (as I did) because I was convinced that 1135 was the passenger side sensor and that they sent me a faulty connector. My assumptions were incorrect. I made this error after reading some feedback that their connector was defective and that they were able to fix it by rewiring it. It didn't hurt, but it didn't work, and after a lot of splicing, I was able to get the failing 1135 (driver's side) sensor to work. I'm also avoiding the jargon of bank 1 sensor 1 or 2 and bank 2 sensor 1 or 2 because it's confusing and misrepresented in various diagrams. This diagram, which I've attached, appears to be accurate.
CHRISFIX IS WRONG. If you, like me, watched Chrisfix's videos on how to fix a code p1155 in a 2001-2002 Honda Civic, you'll know what I'm talking about. This part 234-2005 Rav4 was seen by you. DON'T BUY IT, says 9023 in a video. Purchase part 234- 9028 is the correct sensor for bank2 sensor 1 (top passenger side in the US), which is the one shown in Mr Fix's video. I'm not sure what Chrisfix did to make that plug fit, but the plugs are completely different and not interchangeable, so I'm guessing he used some editing magic. However, ask me how I know the plugs aren't the same. This section (234-) deals with 9023) is for code p1135, which is the driver's side sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) in the United States.
I'm so glad this sensor is available on Amazon; just for fun, I called my local Toyota to see what their price was, and it was around $220 (at least 200). I didn't calculate labor costs, but I'm guessing it's at least a 30-minute job at $90/hr, and that's before diagnostics, which cost around $100 just to check codes! I was furious, so I ordered a service manual and a code reader from Amazon and did it myself for less than the price of the sensor from Toyota. br>br>I'm guessing $60-$100. 80 on the sensor, at least $100 on diagnostics, and another $100 on labor to install the stupid thing were all saved. br>A good code reader should be able to do the following: "BAFX Products" is a brand name for a line of products manufactured by BAF "Works great with my Moto G, even for real-time diagnostics," says the user of the Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool. data on the passage of time Thanks to Amazon, I was able to pull the code and clear the ECU with no problems. br> Those looking for a keyboard; br>br> It was installed in a 2003 Toyota Rav4 (Rav 4), with the Toyota part number 89467-. P1135 for an Air Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction - 42010, sensor1 bank1, sensor 1 bank 1br>Code reader displayed P1135 for an Air Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction - 42010, sensor1 bank1, sensor 1 bank 1br> The useless heat coil inside the O2 sensor died, and the ECU went into limp mode, relying on pre-programmed data. If my memory serves me correctly, there were A/F ratio curves that were programmed. It essentially runs a basic rich-side fuel curve, wasting fuel and clogging your catalytic converters more quickly over time.
Very good: It's simple to put together (especially with the TEKTON 4929 3/8-inch TEKTON 4929 3/8-inch TEKTON 4929 3/8-inch inch drive by 7/8-inch drive by 7/8-inch drive by 7/8-inch drive by Inch Oxygen Sensor Socket)br>It took me no more than 10 minutes. br>A few weeks ago, my car's "Check Engine" light came on - I decided to try a DIY repair because the engine started and ran smoothly. br>To obtain the Trouble Code "P1135", I used Amazon's Donop Professional U480 CAN OBD2 OBD II Car Diagnostic Scanner Engine Code Reader Tool (approximately $22). After a few minutes of searching on Google, I found this Denso (two of the YouTube reviewers linked back to this page, making the parts both easy and inexpensive to obtain). br>br>The scanner isn't exactly "Professional," but it did the job and was simple to use.
NOTE: THE SCANNER PLUG MUST BE INSERTED WITH THE IGNITION OFF - However, once the reader is plugged in, YOU MUST TURN THE IGNITION 'ON' in order for it to 'talk' to the Engine Computer and reveal the correct trouble code. br>br>The Denso A/F ratio sensor cost about $100 less than the Toyota Dealership wanted, and it arrived a week later (in Hawaii) - ok. br>br>Overall, by doing my own codes and ordering from Amazon, I was able to save $250 - It took about an hour of my time in total, and it was well worth it!.
Both Bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors are included in this package. On the original parts, I'd say this was a successful run. br>br>When I went to the local part store, they wanted $180 for a no-name brand that I wasn't sure would last half as long as the original part; thank goodness for Amazon and this part. The OEM part is not only identical, but it is also $80 less expensive. Right away, I was able to save $160. br>br>When it came time to install them, I was a little nervous because the original ones had been on the exhaust for well over ten years. Everyone I read on the internet said to warm up the engine before attempting removal. The instructions that came with the sensor stated that they should be removed with the engine at room temperature, which surprised me. I decided to start with the room temperature method and see how it turned out. What a relief it was when they just came off without a hitch! I had finished in ten minutes. br>br>Now, I never try to clear the trouble codes from the car's computer to see if the new sensors will fix the problem. The check engine light reset itself after driving the car for about 30 minutes and then parking it for a few hours. Done, done, and done are the three words that come to mind when I think of the word "don br>br>Avoid buying generic sensors because you never know how long they'll last. Purchase this OEM part from Amazon and get the job done correctly the first time.