Driver Recovery 2-4 Gauge Battery Quick Connect / Disconnect (2 Pack) 175 Amps Wire Harness Plug for Winch or Trailer
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My jumper cables are rated for 400 amps, so I soldered a #2 wire on to mine, and it fit snugly and now will easily carry the 400 amps I need. Beyond #2, I can't imagine you could go any bigger.
As long as I have a good relationship with them, it should work
The gauge of wire I use for the badland 9000 is that much similar in electrical demand that you will also have to ream the holes in the contacts where the wires OWE TO BE SOLDERED if the gauge of the wire is too large to fit.
In short, yes. Cutting the power and ground cables between the unit and battery is all that has to be done. Attaching the copper connectors and inserting them into the quick disconnecters are the only things you have to do.
Selected User Reviews For Driver Recovery 2-4 Gauge Battery Quick Connect / Disconnect (2 Pack) 175 Amps Wire Harness Plug for Winch or Trailer
Please read the review to find out how to use it. My review was unbiased, even though I received nothing for my honest review. Unlike other reviewers who got items for free or a discount and whose review may be biased, I was not paid anything for my honest review. These came in a package of 2 in a box and were the best price I found, after crimping my 2 gauge cable to the included lugs, you simply snap the lugs into the included red quick connect boxes (there are 4 lugs and two red boxes). Despite their low price, these red plugs work great with no problems. They plug into each other firmly and pull apart easily. These look tough and feel like they can handle anything. You may mark this review as helpful if you found it helpful. Thanks for reading.
Metal studs slide into the connector and are held in place by a raised flat spot on the stud that snaps against a spring steel plate. One of the studs was smooth, so it won't snap and stay in place since the studs are poorly made and different sizes. The experience was really frustrating and it was not worth the return. If these were checked before being sent, how much would it cost?.
My second purchase of this set and I believe it is a great value for a pair of heavy duty boots Plugs with a capacity of 350 or more volts I'm with you! The first time I helped somebody who was stranded and needed a batter jump, I was nervous. What's the reason? In addition to sparks, hydrogen also exists Adding sulfur dioxide to a gas will cause an As a precaution and to prevent the possibility of shorting the battery jumper cables during the initial wiring, I decided to install one of the Anderson plugs on the battery cables and the other one mounted directly to the fender inside the engine compartment and directly connected to the battery and You will be able to avoid any chances of jumper cables being shorted this way. Remember that you must first plug in the Anderson connectors, then connect the clamps to the car you are jumping. The Anderson plug should be disconnected first, followed by.
In any event, these connectors seem to be solid, but they do not come with So a dope like me could try to engage the lip of the metal pin on the housing rather than flipping it over to ensure it engaged properly with the metal clip, by which it was held Thank you, Youtube, for helping me figure out how to do that. Additionally, there were no instructions to tell me whether it was better to crimp or solder the wire, or the recommended way of doing it.
These units are used by me to connect my amateur radio. It's a great idea to use these plugs. In my car, I use the units to have my amateur radio hooked up to the battery. It takes a lot of power to run my 500 watt amplifier. A #4 AWG welding cable I also purchased on Amazon was used to solder the connectors. Soldering with a propane torch is the best way to attach the connectors. My wires are covered in flux, and my connectors are filled with flux. Holding each lug vertically was done by sliding vice grips over the lugs. A quarter inch of solder was melted into the bottom of the lugs after they were heated for about five minutes. In the process of inserting the stripped wire into the hole, I held the torch to the lug so I could quickly remove You don't need to tin the wire. Of course, you will have to remove enough insulation from the wire. I applied a few layers of heat shrink to the wire and to the back of the lug to relieve strain.
A modification is needed to make the product work properly. The product is reported to not work by many reviewers I guess I should explain that. The first thing to note is that it is a solder-related issue The studs are able. It is necessary to remove the stud in order to solder. Having a torch and soldering wire will be necessary. The second problem is that they don't make solid contact right away. For the studs to make contact, they will need to be bent or modified slightly. I did this with a vice and a hammer. They don't take much effort to move. The studs were then placed in position after which I used a piece of stock to put pressure behind the stud to ensure proper contact.
Once all was fixed.
When I took the plugs apart, I found their positive connections to be filled with corroded corrosion. When I pulled the entire harness apart to look closer, I found it to be cracked in one of the housings. It is not like these plugs get very much use, as they have been connected since installation and only pulled apart once before to service the winch.
It's very easy to solder with a small torch, then the ends snap right The fit is very tight. It can be a bit annoying that the rubber end of the procter tends to drift away. Using them on an electric vehicle and they handle 250 amps with ease. A bit pricey, but worth the money.
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