Daedalus CNC Brushless Spindle Motor, 500w, ER11, 48V DC, 12000RPM
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Yes, with lubricant and an aluminum mill feed and speed setup, it will take care of it like a champ.
I'd say yes, but only if a few factors are taken into account: br>1) Your CNC machine's rigidity, which should be as high as possible. br>2) The bits you use are of good quality. On hard materials, cheaper bits quickly become dull. br>3) Depending on your machine's overall strength, I recommend setting multiple passes to achieve the 1 mm depth. Maybe 0. br>4) The working speed. A 2 mm depth per pass would be a good starting point; if everything goes well, you could try a little more. This spindle uses very little power. Start with a low speed and gradually increase as your confidence in the machine grows.br>I hope this information is helpful.
Yes, I don't have automatic spindle power on/off set up. I have no idea how difficult it would be to do so. Otherwise, yes, it should be compatible with the inventible easel software.
The chances are good. I have one mounted on a Shapeoko2, which was a forerunner of the Xcarve machine line. I'm still controlling the shapeoko with the Arduino that came with it, but I'm not controlling the spindle with it. This, according to my understanding, is possible; I simply haven't taken the time to set it up.
Selected User Reviews For Daedalus CNC Brushless Spindle Motor, 500w, ER11, 48V DC, 12000RPM
For the money, it's a nice spindle! A distinguishing feature is: The ER11 is a separate part that is cut directly into the spindle! The bearings are simple deep groove ball bearings: The ER number is 6002ZZ, and the fan number is 6900ZZ. The top bearing outer race is preloaded upward with a fiber washer, and the bottom bearing outer race is preloaded upward with a wave washer. The runout isn't bad, but it can be annoying if you're using skinny engraving cutters. I took a reading of 0. On the spindle OD near the bearing, a Total Indicator Reading (TIR) of 0005" and 0. TIR of 0. 0007" on a tool shank with a 1/8" diameter clamped in the collet. The 600 Watt motor had a reading of 0. TIR on the spindle OD is 0004", and on the OD of the spindle is 0. TIR on the same tool: 008" The 600-watt motor is clamped in a V-shaped configuration. I was able to move the spindle up and down for a total radial motion of 0 with this block. 008" according to the tool's measurements. A 0. is currently in use. Bit with a 2mm tip and a 15 degree V angle at 0 At the surface, an 8mm depth resulted in a 0. 55mm. This should be closer to zero. 41mm. With a 30 degree 0 degree, my results are as follows: Worse were the 1mm tip bits: br>br>Both the 500 and 600 Watt motors are in my possession. The 600 Watt one is longer, and that is the only visible difference. The 600 Watt motor is depicted in the interior photos. My CNC router has the other one installed. The 600 Watt motor is trifilar wound, with all of the coils leading to a single center tap that isn't removed from the motor. I soldered each coil group to the center tap and took the following measurements: at 2. 4 volts and 9 volts 7 amps or 0 amps 24 Ohm. I got 0 when I measured from wire to wire (at a lower current). 37 Ohm. All of the measurements were within a tenth of a millimeter of one another. br>br>My main complaint is that the air cooling holes on the top are significantly larger than those on the bottom. To improve air flow, I drilled out all 6 holes in the end cap of my 600 Watt motor to 1/4". Only this end can be removed by pulling three super-strong super-strong super-strong super-strong super-strong super-strong super- screws that are quite long; It simply peels away. If you're removing the rotor, be VERY careful to keep magnetic debris away from it! If you do pull it out, make sure to clean it with blue tape! br>br>For some reason, with the 500 Watt motor, I get 12,000 RPM on the display (which sounds fast), but with the 600 Watt motor (same driver), I only get 8,000 RPM. br>br>This is an upgrade from the brushed DC ER11 spindles (with the pressed-on adapter), but it is NOT what you need if you need zero runout. This has slop and runout, but it works fine on my belt-driven CNC!.
This motor will cut as long as your frame is rigid. Outstanding worth.
Also, make a change. For a small CNC, this is a nice little motor. There is no need to connect the display to the spindle because it lacks a hall effect sensor. There is no manual or online help on wiring that I can find. It's a lovely little setup once again. ***UPDATE*** FROM 3 TO 5 STARS. To connect the display to the control, follow these wiring instructions. To the PG terminal, connect the yellow wire. The red wire should be connected to 10 volts, while the black wire should be connected to ground. It's a cinch to use.
The engine is extremely reliable. The ER11 collet housing is built into the shaft of the 12k RPM, as stated by others. After a couple of days of mostly testing, the power supply fan began to make the dreaded whrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr The driver works fine, but the pictures show a PWM controller when the connection for the potentiometer (or MACH3 0-1) is actually the same. Signal of ten volts). br>Despite the fact that the spindle speed is measured, there is no feedback to increase power when the spindle speed decreases while cutting. There's also the tachometer to think about. I'm not happy with it; even when fed a stable signal from a generator, it has a lot of jitter. The last three digits flicker so badly at 12k RPM that it's distracting. br>In my case, I built a PWM with a range of 0-100. I used a 10V controller (yes, there are some on Amazon), but I also included speed feedback logic to increase the spindle's power when the speed drops. br>With the exception of the fan, the power supply is stable. br>Because of the controller flaws, I'll give it four stars overall.
It reaches its highest point at 8 p. m. At 8800 RPM, the voltage is 8 volts. br>At 10 volts, it doesn't seem to run any faster. 0 - PWM is more like 2 volts than 10 volts. 0 - PWM (pulse width modulation) control with an output voltage of 8 volts. br>Won't be able to go below 2. At 300 RPM, the voltage is 00 volts. br>The only positive thing I can say is that it is quiet. br>There is a 5 mph difference between the two speeds. 8 % it takes about 30 minutes to get close to accurate speeds before it warms up before it warms up before it warms up before it warms up before it warms up before it% br>As it warms up, it speeds up at each level, but never exceeds 8800 RPM at the top. br>I'm very dissatisfied with the price.
This kit was purchased in preparation for the construction of a new CNC machine. br>I bench tested this kit and it worked flawlessly, with the spindle being extremely quiet. br>Both the speed control and the RPM display are in good working order. br>After I install this spindle on the new machine, I'll update this review.
This is far superior to my quiet cut spindle, which draws 300 watts. Because I'm running GRBL on an Arduino Uno, I needed to add a (cheap) 5v to 10v converter to start, stop, and control the spindle's RPM directly from GRBL. My dust collector produces more noise than the spindle, so it's quiet.
Great setup for the price, using two to build a high-powered pitching machine. Checked with a strobeascope, and lcd readouts are within 20-percent of each other. Actual speed is 30 rpm. The motors start up quickly and are vibration-free. Use a 10k multiturn potentiometer on the speed input if precise speed control is required.
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