SHIMANO Dura-Ace Grease
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It is ideal for using with reels and bicycle gears and shifters in salt water
My dropper post is not being lubricated because this grease is too thick and will attract dirt. I never lubricate my dropper post, and the post is working perfectly.
Not quite 2 ounces, but it's quite small. As I thought it was a better deal, I decided to buy the larger 100 gram tube.
A yellowish color Grease that is green in color
Selected User Reviews For SHIMANO Dura-Ace Grease
The lube freak in me never leaves the house without it. There is nothing better than my own suspension oil for tungsten sulfide, since there is nothing commercially available. Among my range of lubricants (oils and greases) are most of the main substances. **This is one of the best greases ever. Heat-resistant, hydrophobic, slip-resistant, keeps its shape, looks cool (green), stays put, and even stays put in a shower. It's a bit better than the purple I used to prefer, royal. Royal Purple is still a good choice for large jobs, but when it comes to precision or small jobs, I prefer Shimano.
For use on pedals, it was used to mount needle bearings. Prior to this, I had used Park grease. We used a degreaser to get rid of all the old grease. The pedal axles and bearings have been greased. It's amazing how much difference there is. Spinning is easier and has a buttery smooth surface. I also use it on headsets and wheel bearings and it works well. The grease I used was the "greasiest" I have ever used. I could not clean it off of my hands. There should be no problem with it standing up to water. As well as being sticky, it has a lot of holes. This is a premium grease, not to be compared.
Everything is running smoothly as if it were a brand-new installation. It is impossible for this grease to go wrong.
The grease works the way it As of yet, I have not heard any grinding or noticed any roughness from the bearings since I filled only 25-35% of the grease in them. It has worked out well for me.
Everything is made better with awesome oil. You don't want it too liquidy, but you also don't want it too I only have one word to say A+.
There are those who would argue that a large tub of branded (e. There's no question Castrol or Valvoline) general purpose lithium automotive grease can do the job equally well for 95% of bicycle applications while at a fraction of the cost of 'special' tubes of essentially the same product. As part of my regular bike maintenance, I use quite a few bicycle greases. Certainly, some are designed for specific applications, but the vast majority are just sold as general purpose greases that are cleverly branded as 'bicycle specific'. The brands you see here are often associated with manufacturers who specialize in bicycle parts or bicycle tools. I now use a few greases much more frequently than all other types. In spite of their allusions to formulating and blending their own lubricants, the vast majority of brand names behind these products obviously do not manufacture them themselves. fact is, bicycle grease does not usually require any special properties, given the tendency of most bicycle bearings to run at very low speeds, under low stresses, and for relatively little cost. The truth is greases are just as likely to get smeared in seat tubes, wheel bores, and pedal threads as they are to pack A large number of chain lube and bike grease are available to buy, but the differences in these products are not that great. The reason is not because they are profitable, but because they are! It is not uncommon for these products to be supplied just by a chemical company (or refinery), which are then packaged and sold in relatively small quantities after being scented and colored. There they are sold with a bicycle brand name on the tub or tube or sachet, in a bicycle environment (shop) where customers are willing to pay top dollar. The number of licenses would be much smaller if people didn't buy them. Grease is an economically sound and highly effective way to protect boat trailers It has a lot of features such as heat resistance and availability A waterproof material. There may also be a smell and a brownish color to it. An average person may benefit from a regular sized tube of grease for bicycles since a regular size tube will last a long time, is more convenient, and can also prevent contamination (open containers on the ground, dropped tub). As a result, I use a fair amount of Park Tool 'Polylube' grease, but only because I'm lazy and it's inexpensive. The new grease comes in green tubes (when new), which makes it easier to identify new versus old grease, and it comes in convenient tubes that hold a decent amount, have a nozzle extension, and can be reused You are limited. However, what's really important to note is that it's also pretty ordinary grease that destroys bicycle hubs prematurely, isn't waterproof (ends up as a slimy white material everywhere), and even separates at relatively low temperatures. As a final product, Pedros 'Bio Grease' is available, which is a clear biodegradable grease that is better for applying to exposed cables and seat posts around the cabin. Compared to Park grease, it is better, but it is not as convenient, harder to see, and the top of the tubes makes it more difficult to use. Despite its clear nature, a grease with this property also allows for easier inspection of bearing grease contamination. This is followed by the Phil Wood grease, a dark green grease that's waterproof and excellent for hubs. It does cost more, and comes packaged in tiny tubes with annoying little caps, but it's unparalleled in terms of quality for decent hubs compared to (I use the Pedros for average hubs, Phil Wood for better hubs, but I just fill junk bearings In the end, the Dura-Core The most expensive grease of them all is Ace, a yellow almost fluorescent grease recommended by Shimano for assembly of their better bags and cups A cone wheel bearing (and BBs, pedals, headsets). The logic of using Shimano's recommended product when you have durable Dura Ace hubs is hard to argue with, because the hubs are so well engineered and the grease's cost is negligible when it is used in tiny quantities to protect such expensive components. A Shimano user may be interested to learn that the manufacturer does not recommend users jam bearings full of Dura-Coat However, it is recommended to use a much lower quantity of Ace grease. It comes in one sleeve with a Dura-Clean headphone. In addition to its nice consistency, Ace grease is ideal for putting (holding) individual ball bearings into greased bearing cups. It has a slightly tacky feel but isn't thick, and it is also a bit more stringy I think the nature of the Pedros grease is a little bit different than this. Pedros grease is a bit drier and a little The ball bearings do not hold as well as they should. It is Dura-based It is easier to see through Ace grease than it is Phil Wood, as it is lighter in color. Additionally, it can be helpful to keep track of ball bearings. In the end, the DA grease is a reliable and robust product that is specially formulated to extend the life of bearings of high quality. The Park grease (which shouldn't be allowed to touch anything good) is the polar opposite of what the Park grease is. If you are going to use DA grease in cheap Alivio or Sora level hub bearings, then it's fine. But that might just be a waste of The less grease you have, or contamination in your grease, the more important it is to change it regularly when necessary. As well as the small screw top 50 gram container, this DA grease also comes in a huge tub with 500 grams that is rather expensive. My last 100g pot of this was bought on Amazon from 'Extreme Bike and Outdoors' For $17, you can get 'Sport'. This has a capacity of 63, which is pretty good for what it is and ought to last me for quite some time. I hope I have helped someone in some small way.
Shimano uses this grease on their parts because it is high quality. I personally find it overpriced but it's Shimano. It is fluorescent green in color.
You'll never have to worry about your bearings again with this stuff!.
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