EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 20A 150V PV Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter Temperature Sensor PC Communication Cable (Tracer2215BN)
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These are identical products under different names, but the MT-5000 is the latest It must be noted that model 50 communicates only with its matched brand. Additionally, it is amenable to running two 50s in parallel for parallel use of more than one array. It is not a problem for me to add each piece in turn. An array with a new controller has been installed. In addition to 2 Renogy devices and 1 Epever, I have two other devices running in parallel. I plan to add another set of sets There are 40A 150 W and 5 sockets in mine For each charger, there are 6 panels. When the sun is strong in Mexico, they seldom rise above 130W.
My research indicates we usually don't sync these MPT charge controllers, obviously having 2 or more is all right since you're not tying them into one. (I am aware that some people do). My background is not in solar technology, however I have been an electrician for twelve years and this is an area of particular interest to me. The only potential issue I can see is the charge controllers continuously restructuring their output due to the fluctuating battery voltage. This is nothing new, but if adding a second charger is normal, then this is nothing new either. I'm planning to install four of these chargers when I replace my current system
The first note to make is that most panels labeled as being 12V actually produce 18V when working properly. Therefore, if 4 of those panels are connected in series, they produce 72V. When 8 panels are connected in series, you will find that you are near 150V (and open circuit voltage can happen at *22V which could result in 176V), so I think you are better off doing four panels in groups of four if you want You're going to need a lot of 24V batteries for that many solar panels, too high of a voltage During the charging process, the controllers absorb the maximum amount of power they can from the panels and convert that power into what is required for the battery charge (this is also known as "Maximum power point tracking"). A controller accepts and converts power sent in by the 8 panels, such as 72V @ 10A, to 24V @ 30A (much like an AC transformer). In that case it would be expected to run on the 12V rail at around 60 amps, well above The meaning behind "Max 500 Watts at 12V" and "Max 1000 Watts at 24V" (you can run the numbers yourself 12V * 40 A = 480 Watts, while 24V * 40 A = 960 Watts).
As a member of the "can not be too big crowd," I find that the wire receivers always seem much smaller than the wire transmitters. A double-o welding lead is the size that I prefer. I have more than 200 feet on hand. You have to know how to connect! It has been easy to strip insulation back to the bare wire for years (allowing for wire size). Using a 5-inch wire cutter, cut each inner wire away one at a time until each one just fits the hole in the screw, then tighten it well. Wire "crowds" of large diameters can all be protected and insulated in the same manner with the same process just by stripping them back to a comfortable length and then insulating them completely! In decades, I have had consistent results without the typical electrical power drop that occurs every time a mechanical connection is made (3-).
Selected User Reviews For EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 20A 150V PV Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter Temperature Sensor PC Communication Cable (Tracer2215BN)
A MT- or MT-S can be used for this Then, you can set up the parameters for charging the battery bank using either the 50 meter or the software program (which you can download). It is also important to know which MT-device you need Solar Epic has two versions of the product, one for this unit and one for the Renogy Controller (this controller is the same one as the Renogy, but it has a few changes that require the more expensive meter, so Solar Epic saves you money). The software program requires an Ethernet cable with a USB end and a USB plug on the other end in order to be used. This cable has different connectors than the one that comes with the MT-31 The distance is 50 meters. In addition, you might wish to order the temperature sensor cable so that the Controller automatically lowers the charging voltage as the temperature rises, preventing the batteries from being fried. br>br>The Controller will auto-restart after a minute or two It's smart enough to detect your battery bank voltage, but you still have to specify the type of battery (flooded, sealed, gel) and the amp-hour capacity It comes with pre-programmed settings when it comes to the hours Our battery charger is programmed for the different types of batteries so you can start running as soon as possible. However, you may want to modify the settings for your particular battery, based on the manufacturer's (The user guide is kind of vague about how to change any settings, so here is how to do it) You can access parameter settings by clicking on the Control Parameter button. The following four options are available to you. A sealed, gel, flood, and user is a sealed, gel, flood, and user is a flood. For those of you who would like to use their pre-configured Select the Sealed, Gel, or Flooded setting from the pre-programmed selections. With the exception of Equalize and Boost times, none of these settings can be changed. Click on the User option if you want changes to be made to settings. Once you have made the adjustments, go back through the pages. To adjust the Charging Limit Voltage and to remove Equalization for my particular sealed battery, I had to lower the voltage. You generally do not want to use Equalization on sealed batteries as it could cause outgassing, and you can't add water back as it is sealed. (Well, there's a tiny pressure valve for safety, however, so it's not entirely sealed. 1) Set the clock *,*
You can change the device parameter by clicking here There are two pages where you can set the clock and the backlight time. If you want to add more solar panels than the controller can handle, you can parallel it with a second controller of the same type. You will find the maximum wattage of panels that it is capable of handling in its manual. This is determined by the voltage of your battery bank. It is possible to use two of these as a parallel pair, which will be convenient if you have different wattage panels. A bunch of different panels cannot be connected in a way that expects them to all output the same amount of power. The result of pairing a high power and a low power panel is that the lower panel will pull the higher one down to the lower one, so the higher panel is wasted. The following *br You must wire parallel panels at the same voltage (or within 3% of each other) if you want them all to work together. While your output voltage will remain the same, the total electricity output will be calculated as an addition of the currents in each panel. In other words, (P = E * I* if B) You can set them up in series to add together power. The current you use in each panel needs to match, but the voltage will add up for your total The following *br IF neither voltage nor current are compatible, then you can install another Charge Controller in parallel with each set of panels, each with its own input voltage. As of now, I have four panels each with 160 watts of 12 volts. I will add higher power levels (200. 3. 5 kW) grid-mounted As far as my tie panels are concerned, I'll need a second controller for them, since they don't play well with my current setup.
There is nothing wrong with most of the functions I have noticed that it tries to charge quickly, and it pulls a good amount of power from Due to the minor voltage spikes it sends through my system, I am experiencing this problem. The number of over-age children is eight When a voltage spike is sent up to 15 during a voltage disconnect at 15, equalization charging is disabled), it will temporarily cause the voltage to spike. Through my system, I receive 5 volts. In this case, the inverter trips into an overcurrent state This causes a voltage surge or shutdown of my fridge, etc. until the power is restored. In the past, I have lost more food than this device is worth because it went bad in my fridge. However, I'm not knowledgeable about what might be causing these spikes, so I'd love to know what could be done to make it stop. For the time being, my recommendation to others is to seek out another option.
Using the MT50 monitor, I am able to set my own battery parameters. The same problem I experienced with my old chargers is also noticed by others living off the grid. It happened a lot that my old charger would go into float position and shut off my solar array and I would have to live off of my battery bank while sunlight is present!! Because I have a large battery bank, I set the absorb setting to 3 hours, but I would have loved it if I could set it for more hours since my batteries can be in absorbtion or boost charge for 12 hours. A 14 float charge is what I set up. This charger has a 5 volt output. Battery charge needs to last as long as the panels are producing energy and I definitely don't want to run out of power before nightfall. My earlier chargers which were in float mode allowed my batteries to drain a bit in afternoons then kick back over a preset low voltage level. The sun sets very close to the time I usually do this, so as I make my way towards night, my batteries would not be at their maximum charge and surface charge. If you are off grid, check your charger settings I finally figured out what was going on after a summer of not being able to see the sun and I found that I was using batteries instead of panels to run my home! The free power I get from the solar panel during the day is wonderful. When I have my batteries charged up, all the surplus electricity can be used to run my tools, phones, computers and so on. I can use it to run my freezer at full blast and to charge all my tools and devices. There is a 20 amp load outlet on this Solar Epic which features a charge indicator and shows how much power the panel is supplying. Solar Epic is great, and I have extra current and panels (not more than 130 volts) hooked to it to make sure the charger is always getting maximum power. There is no problem with having more than 40 amps going into it however, you must not exceed Make sure you read the owner's manual! UPDATES for all. I am very pleased with how the unit is performing! It seems that the tracking reacts quickly to passing clouds and other cues compared to the slow response of some reviewers. It is possible I will buy another unit in the near.
I found this to be very easy to install and is a very good product. Its fit in the horse trailer I'm building was a major factor in the decision to buy the monitor, since I have a small panel on the trailer and this fits in very well. being shown on monitor is due to trailer being inside. The panel is temporary while I determine how I want it to look.
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