Squeeeek No More/O'Berry Counter Snap Kit (#3232) for Hardwood Floors with Replacement Pack
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Use a dremel tool to cut it. The vice grips or hammer won't get the job done.
The vinyl must be ripped up for that to work.
It should be. It didn't work for me because it was 3/4 thick and it caused squeaks from the underlayer
The nails were clearly placed on the ground across my old floor (70 years old), so the joists lined up precisely with the nails. If your trying to fasten to newer (click) hardwood, which is hard to find using a stud sensor, then you may be able to find the stud pretty easily to use your stud finder
Selected User Reviews For Squeeeek No More/O'Berry Counter Snap Kit (#3232) for Hardwood Floors with Replacement Pack
After researching options online and considering just ripping the basement drywall off to get at the stairs from underneath, I came across this product. While it is designed for floors (I think), it works just as well as In order for the nails to take hold, one needs to go into the stringers (the wooden pieces that support the whole I nailed one nail into each stringer, and also one nail into the stringer riser on the front of the stair, in the center of the step, for each The problem was solved with this solution and 90 percent of it was There is a squeak on 95% of the stairs! Obviously, this is an old stairway, so it won't ever be totally silent, but it is a huge It did turn out that two nails didn't go in far enough, and that was a bit of a hassle to fix, but since it helped to prevent my stairs from squeaking, I'm not too upset about it. My Dremel powered cutting bit removed the excess screw from the stairs, and then I puttied over the entire opening. How these screws work is pretty neat, and I was amazed at how small the hole left by them turned out to be (see photo). It is easy to see the nail holes from the puttied holes, but I don't mind since my stairs are far from perfect right now, given their age. My guess is that you could hide all the evidence of the nail holes nearly completely if you put more effort into finding an exact color match for the stain than I did. Voici some suggestions I'm sorry -- Make sure the bit you use is smaller than 1/8". The size I used was the next size down*- The "soft wood" method should be used So you'll be less likely to end up with a nail sticking out of the floor when the screw breaks rather than it breaking early - thus giving you more control over when it breaks. As soon as you pre-register You need to drill the pilot hole into the stringer or joist. Otherwise, the screw won't do anything. If you drill the hole into the framing, you'll encounter A floor system must be able to grab onto the stringer or joist to tighten it. During the process of tightening everything up, I could actually hear my staircase "creak" as the screw tightened. Please note that. After touching up the floor with wood putty and stain/paint, you will need wood putty and stain or paint and color to do so.

My experience has been excellent with these. It has been a day without a break for me. This is one of the solid oak planks I have, It is unlikely that these would work well with thinner engineered flooring. There are 3/32 holes drilled in my circuit board. With a variable speed drill, I have a lot of control. Drilling is done at a steady, slow speed until the guide is engaged, and then I use a sharp trigger to break the drill into a high speed. Almost always, the screw snaps as a result of this rapid increase in torque. There is a 5% chance of the screw spinning without causing damage. There may be damage to the subfloor where these areas appear to be, I don't know. Having purchased 100 more screws, I have installed 100 screws so far. It has always creaked the whole length of the hallway (18 feet) because the previous owner had a flood in it. I have been able to solve the problem this way so far.

I found this to be an extremely useful product that helped reduce the number of squeaks in an old house, and gave me more confidence while working on the flooring project. As a result, I will continue to use this product, but I will always test on scrap wood of the equivalent thickness before using it on my real wood. For the screw part, I would also like to see a metal head instead of the abs. The abs was too soft to break, and the screw spun when it was in use. For a nice clean snap, grind off the thickness of the washer and epoxy it on. Using this, for example, I was able to secure 1/2in hardwood flooring in a location where a nailer wasn't possible. I cut a hole smaller than the size of a finish nail and the connection was therefore safer than the traditional finish nail. In this case, a 9/64 in drill bit was used. The 1/8/ bit would not have been strong enough to snap the screw, so it spun into its place. The second example is given below. After a number of screws failed prematurely on a plywood stair tread about an inch thick, I had to change to a 5/32 in drill bit.

I am extremely satisfied with this product! A lot of the floors in my house are 8" wide and the house is A few of the boards appear to be bowing. There was a terrible sound of squeaking in the house and it was particularly loud in the highest traffic areas. My thoughts were that this product might be able to solve the squeaking problem, but I never imagined that it would The work can be done by you if you are even the littlest bit handy. There is truth in the other reviews that mention the screw not wearing out completely. Using a smaller drill bit is a good idea, in my opinion. When I used a cordless drill to screw in the screws, I found that if I left them on "drill," the screws snapped I found squeaks in my hardwood flooring between the subfloor and the hardwood flooring. Your squeaks sound like they come from the space between the subfloor and the joists, so I'm not sure it is something that will work. If you have a house with a squeaky floor, this product is perfect for you. The screw head isn't long enough to penetrate the floor joist, the subfloor, and the wood floor. I would absolutely recommend this product to anyone.

In some cases, it just moves the sound around, but if that is the case, it takes care of the issue. Nevertheless, I disagree with the directions in regards to screw size. Using 7/16 instead of a 1/8 seems to lessen the chances of them not snapping. As long as they don't break up, it's not a big The screw just needs to be placed just below the break point, after backing it out and removing the jig. If you use the open part of the jig, you can snap the pipe off pretty easily. A replacement pack for the 3232 kit does not appear to exist. The 3251 screw appears to be the same as the 3251, and I can't tell any difference between them, so if you are looking for the screws only, this is the screw to look for.

It is a great idea. There is a problem with the execution. Around 25 of the 100 screws I used are likely to have snapped. The breaker was so badly damaged that I had to put shims under it to whack it off with a hammer without damaging the floor. It had not been scored enough to break Save both time and money by not wasting them.
