Ideal in-Sure 2-Port x25, 3-Port x25, 4-Port x25, Non-Twist Connector for Solid, Stranded, and Tin Bonded Wire
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Wire that isn't stranded at all isn't very effective. It would be possible to tin the wire. Pin connectors (McMaster Carr 8009K43 or similar) are also an option. They're designed to go into terminal strips with stranded wire, but they'll work here as well.
It's not a good idea to connect two wires with different AWGs or materials. Before attempting this, please familiarize yourself with your circuit and/or seek the advice of a licensed electrician.
Yes. It is UL listed, CSA certified, and has a maximum voltage of 600V/105C. If you have any questions, please visit the ideal website.
Selected User Reviews For Ideal in-Sure 2-Port x25, 3-Port x25, 4-Port x25, Non-Twist Connector for Solid, Stranded, and Tin Bonded Wire
There were a lot of connections to make once the ballasts were removed and one set of Tombstones was made hot (direct wire) and the other side was made neutral (direct wire to Tombstone). The connectors can accept a 12 gauge solid wire and several smaller gauges of twisted bonded wire to make my connections, which saved my wrists from twisting traditional wire nuts. I was blown away by the fact that you could connect wires of various sizes to the same connector and it would accommodate them all. It's more difficult with stranded wire because it won't work if the wire isn't stiff enough. The only issue I see, and another reviewer mentioned, is that the wire can be pulled and twisted out, so if you're trying to connect the last wire and twisting the connector while trying to push that last wire in, some of the other wires will start to back off. I noticed this in applications where the wire that was connected didn't have enough slack in it, which was my fault; sometimes the wire connections were cut just a hair short; simply double-check that all of your wires are fully inserted and then leave it alone. Overall, getting used to how they work and what they can be used for takes some practice. Overall, a little practice is all that is required to achieve excellent results. I agree that these wouldn't work in a situation where wires might be pulled or in a high-vibration environment. The wires should never back off if you leave a small amount of extra wire for slack.
These have completely changed the way I wire my house. When I was renovating my first home, I discovered that these were far easier, more secure, and cleaner than twist caps. br>br>Since then, I've purchased a new home with messy wiring and intermittent wiring issues, and I discovered two gang boxes with old twist caps that had come undone, exposing the wire ends and making the connection unstable. It's a miracle the building didn't catch fire. In a matter of minutes, I was able to resolve the issue with these connectors. And I'm confident that the connections are safe and secure. Without the bulky twist caps, the wiring tucks much more easily in the gang box. These are fantastic. br>br> I believe these will revolutionize electrical work in the same way that Pex did copper plumbing.
My own personal experience br>Because I dislike wire nuts, I looked for alternatives that are still acceptable according to the Electrical Standards Codes. These are more of a one-and-done solution, whereas wire nuts make it easier to add or modify circuits in the future. It's extremely simple to use; simply insert the wire into the port and you're ready to go. Advantages: br>br> br>Easy to usebr>Conforms to Electrical Standardsbr>After installation, it looks cleanbr>br>Cons: Larger port designs take up more space than equivalent wire nuts, making it more difficult to change or modify wire.
I needed to install a GFCI in an old work box that was extremely tight, and one of the leads had been cut extremely short; I was able to splice the leads together and complete the job using these connectors. However, the leads must be STRAIGHT in order to be properly seated. It can be difficult to seat the leads in tight spaces, but once they're in place, they'll stay put. I wouldn't put these in a location where there is a lot of vibration or movement because the wire is removed from the connector by wiggling it back and forth. They work best in a junction box, in my opinion.
It worked perfectly in a ceiling fan box that had been wired around 1980. I couldn't thread wire nuts because I didn't have enough space or wire, but these did the trick! They will work with threaded wire, but getting the wire in can be a pain. Solid wire is the best choice for these.
These connectors aren't always a good substitute for wire nuts, but they do come in handy on occasion. It's incredibly simple to use, and I've found it particularly useful for outdoor low-voltage lighting connections. Despite the fact that they are probably unnecessary, I like to use them in conjunction with heat shrink tubing to ensure that nothing moves.
I'm just reporting in for the sake of others who are in the same boat as me. These push connectors are very attractive to me. I'm not sure what happened, but it was a connector connected to a hot line that was also connected to a microwave, though I'm not sure if that was the cause. It's possible that the connector failed as a result of the microwave's high current draw. The microwave showed signs of resetting, such as the amps it was drawing fluctuating, but it still worked, so I assumed it was the microwave, and I changed one of the sockets from gcfi to regular because it tripped occasionally. I only moved the wires in the box and didn't touch the connectors. I thought it was fine, but when I tried to use it in the microwave, the connector on the hot side broke. It appears to have failed in a relatively secure manner. Although the metal carbonized and the plastic melted a little, the wire remained secure and was not allowed to come into contact with anything else. br>br>This has confirmed my suspicions that these could go wrong. Have proper grounding, but I'm more confident in them now in terms of safety versus wire nuts because I know that if something goes wrong, the metal inside the connector will melt or char. br>br>Don't use the same connector twice; Get rid of them.
After using these, I've mostly given up on wire nuts. I've used at least a half-dozen of these and they've worked flawlessly in every situation. The grip is so strong that removing a wire from the connector took all of my strength (it's a little easier if you twist). They also take up less space than a wire nut, and the various connection styles are very useful. This book comes highly recommended.