18 Gauge 6 Color Combo 100 Feet per Roll (600 ft Total) Low Voltage Automotive Primary Wire for Car Stereo Amplifier Remote 12 Volt Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring
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If you want to use it for long-distance power transmission, I wouldn't recommend passing more than 2 amps through it. Approximately 13 ohm/1000 ft is the resistance. It takes about 10 amps to wire a chassis (a short distance between components).
Although I do not work outside, the insulation on the wires, in my opinion, can be improved.
That is exactly what I am doing with my train layout. To connect my 14 switches to their own transformer, I used 16 ga speaker wire.
The insulation can easily withstand a voltage of 24 volts. When it comes to the wires, it's not so much about the voltage as it is about how much current you'll be passing through and how far you'll be running them.
Selected User Reviews For 18 Gauge 6 Color Combo 100 Feet per Roll (600 ft Total) Low Voltage Automotive Primary Wire for Car Stereo Amplifier Remote 12 Volt Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring
So, I'm going to spend a couple hundred dollars on supplies for a big project I'm working on. That's a fantastic offer - For a small fee, you can get a bundle of wire. It appears to be good enough for automobiles. Why not, after all? I place my order, and it sits in a box for a few months because the season has taken a turn for the worse. br>br>Fast forward to the first time I tried to use this wire, and I threw away every roll. I must have overlooked one, as I discovered it today while cleaning up. Background information; Soldering certification is a requirement in my line of work. So, let's take a look at this wire. Wire is made up of two components. A conductor and an insulating jacket br>br> The jacketing is honestly some of the worst plastic jacketing I've ever seen. When heated, it shrinks horribly, fits loosely around the conductors, and stretches like taffy. I know it's not supposed to get hot, but I tried to solder the wire into a connector and failed miserably. Isn't it crazy? Next, we'll talk about the conductor. br>br> The first issue is that none of it exists. 18 Ga? What universe are we talking about here? Unless they're trying to deceive us by not indicating that "18 Ga" in their nomenclature refers to something else, this isn't 18 Ga. Sure, ten rolls of it. Uh, uh, uh, uh, uh, uh, why not. I didn't unroll any further than the foot I was on. "used? br>br>Now for the next issue. What kind of METAL are you talking about? It isn't made of copper in any way. It isn't made of tin at all. It's copper in color, but when heated (aka soldered), the plating burns away, revealing the conductor beneath. Probably aluminum. is exposed, and it will not bind to the solder in any way. Worse, whatever reaction occurred when that metal was heated and exposed to solder also stripped the coating from my Metcal station's tip! MORE THAN THE WIRE WAS SPENT ON THAT TIP! In the course of NORMAL USE, it was completely ruined. No, this isn't automotive wire, and I wouldn't use it for a first-grade school project because of the potential for liability. It's completely useless. br>br>Cheap items can be divided into two categories: br>1) Low-cost items with a high perceived value, such as Amazon Basics cables and batteries, cloned drivegears for 3D printers, or Chinese knockoff Arduinosbr>2) High-cost items with a low perceived value, such as cloned drivegears for 3D printers or Chinese knockoff Arduinosbr>3) High-cost items with a low perceived value, such as cloned drivegears for 3 a low price items of high value Items that are of no value. Items that are inexpensive so you can buy them on the spur of the moment, but are also worthless, resulting in a waste of money. br>br>This wire is all of the latter, and I honestly believe there will be a liability lawsuit someday when some enthusiast's house burns down due to this specific product. br>br>I'm not a lawyer, and no one paid me to write this review. They can't afford to pay me enough to get it taken away from me.
Soldering for good connections becomes impossible as a result of this. Additionally, because the aluminum is so soft, crimping connectors is not an option. The wire either snaps or pulls free with ease. The aluminum will also corrode over time, rendering the wire useless. This should be avoided at all costs!.
This pack appealed to me because of the gauge and variety of colors. They were supposed to be used in a re-modeling project for motorcycles. I've done a lot of wiring in the past. The ends of the wires are stripped and soldered before being inserted into the connector. Several wires have snapped in the last two days at the soldered ends of connectors. To avoid putting stress on the wires, all of them have extra length. What does it matter? When I move a wire, the connector breaks off. Other wire brands have never failed me like this. As a lesson learned, I'm chucking these out.
1/12/19 UPDATE: My initial impression of this wire was negative, as I was dissatisfied with the fact that I had to rebuild a wiring harness that I used inside a generator that was subjected to a lot of vibration. This wire is now used for harnesses that run to the control panel but are not inside the generator. So it has its applications; just be cautious about where you apply it. This is aluminum wire with a copper cladding. br>br> It is prone to breakage. I made the mistake of trying to use it inside a generator with a lot of vibration. The wire at the connection snapped as a result of the vibration. I now have to completely rewire the wiring harnesses because I can't trust this wire.
Wire is so thin that crimp connectors will break it, and soldering it is extremely difficult.
All of the connections I soldered and shrink-wrapped are now complete. Wrapped has corroded and is falling apart. It should not be used in any situation where moisture will be present.
To wire up a battery management system for my off-grid house, I bought two sets of ten different colored rolls. The wires connect each cell to a controller, which records the voltages and temperatures of the cells every second. On the battery end, I used heat shrink ring terminals, and the wires were terminated in screw terminal connector blocks that plugged into the boards in a sealed cabinet on the other end. br>After a year, I'm still having issues with open circuit connections. The wire itself has corroded in several of the runs, with the yellow-colored insulation appearing to be the worst, with the wire inside the insulating sleeve tuning into a white powder. The wire will simply break if you try to strip it. This is noticeable throughout the entire run, not just near the exposed ends. br>My conclusion is that, because this is not copper, but rather aluminum with an extremely thin copper cladding, there is a problem with the corrosion resistance of the aluminium wire. br>br>In short, I would not recommend this wire; instead, look for a pure copper alternative, which may be a little more expensive up front but will pay you back in the long, and even medium, term. This CCA wire should not be used for anything that needs to be dependable or that may be exposed to corrosive environments, such as automotive wiring. It may appear to be a good deal, but it will end up costing you a lot more.
I was first impressed by the wire's appearance, but then I tried it with crimp connectors and was disappointed. At the connector, the wire would easily break. I experimented with a variety of crimp connector brands, as well as adjusting my ratcheting crimpers and even purchasing a new set of crimpers. Nothing seemed to work. After that, I used the same crimpers and crimp connectors with some old wire I had on hand, and the problem was solved. This wire is brittle and prone to breaking. I'm sure it'll work for some things, but crimp connectors aren't one of them.
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