TWTADE SSR-25AA 25A AC 80-250V to AC 24V-380V Ac to Ac SSR Solid State Relay + Heat Sink
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Questions & Answers
As long as there is no power applied, it should be open.
In order to switch on, it needs to cross zero.
The most likely answer is yes.
As long as you wire it the way it's documented, there will be a significant leakage through the solid state diodes, and depending on what you are driving with the relay, the relay may not operate as it should. In my case, it was controlling solenoids for a glycol system, and they would only work intermittently unless the wiring was reversed.
Selected User Reviews For TWTADE SSR-25AA 25A AC 80-250V to AC 24V-380V Ac to Ac SSR Solid State Relay + Heat Sink
The TWTADE Systems Support Request of the The 25 DD 25A DC 3 is the ideal size. Plugging a 32V battery into a DC 5 An SSR solid state relay for 60V My problem was solved after I figured out the "REFERENCE DIAGRAM DRAWING" is not right. There are four pins Pin 1, Pin 2, Pin 3 and Pin 4. The positive power connection is located at pin 2 This pin 3 is the positive input, while this pin 4 is the negative input.
As part of a mobile solar power system, we utilized this to create an additional safety shut-off. In our control circuit, we measure the voltage of the batteries, and if they are over the tolerance limits, we cut a small relay that blocks The device then alerts the user when the solar input has been overcompensated, thus preventing overheating Increasing the overall safety of the system through charging. The unit has been operated on a consistent basis for several months and has proven to be reliable. We are however using it for much less than its rating (about 10 Amps at 30 volts) and it does not seem to get hot even when dealing with this load.
I was hesitant to order this unit after reading the previous reviews. Although, it does what it is supposed to do. (This is not a long text You should keep in mind that I'm writing a term report. I have tested it as an AC motor speed controller, and it seems to work properly. It is true that between the relay and heat sink I used thermal paste. The terminal cover did not arrive with mine There are two stars I disconnected the unit from the heat sink, wiped the thermal compound from the heat sink, and snipped the paint from the heat sink before connecting the power. There are no thermal compounds that will work through paint, as far as I know. Thermal paste was applied to the SSR and the heat sink was secured with it.
The wiring diagram on the ad is inaccurate, so even though this unit works, it is important to know that it is. Pin 1 of the load is connected to the input power pin 2 of the load, and the other end of the load is connected The diagram I have attached can be seen below. Make sure that the power supplies are polarized correctly. My mind is boggled as to why the seller has not updated the diagram based on the comments others have provided. When the module is operating at 20A and 36VDC and operating at 25% duty cycle, the heatsink and cooling are required. We will have to wait and see how it holds up to.
The first unit would not turn on after being connected to DC to DC 40 A. Another order has been placed. You have to get the polarity right to make it work. However, the diagram is incorrect, since 2 should be the + and 1 the Likewise, the input colors are reversed
Markings on the unit are correct plus/minus It behaves like an internal diode since 1 Pos unit conducts without any.
My approach to using it is as follows. I have had this SSR installed for a little while now and keep it running on and off. Everything seems to be going well so far. There are many ways to run garage heaters with wifi and you could schedule them and this is the most cost-effective method. To connect both ends of one hot wire to the output side of my relay, I split the wire that runs to the heater. An input switch was then connected to the input with wifi. A boom occurs. Using a 110v light switch to run a 240v heater.
Using the light output of the garage opener, I control multiple LED lights through the ceiling of the garage. Several years have now passed and it is still working well. One may already be aware that if you use LED lamps for the garage opener light, the range of the openers will decrease (if they work at all) and in time it will burn the internal wireless controller. This solid state relay I use as a 'separator' to route the 120V house circuit of 3 LED bulbs directly to the AC circuit of the relay so I can command it remotely from Almost forgot it was there after mounting it on the garage ceiling. Today, the remote of my garage opener can be used up to 150 ft. away from my car.
The holding current is extremely low. I find it very useful, once I know that terminals 1 & 2 must be connected The image in 2 is reversed as well as others have noted here (why don't they fix this? It is extremely difficult to leak current from the loaded side once the load has been activated. I really like this design,,.
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