Emerson 90 380 Fan Relay 24 Volt Coil, 1
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A screenshot of the coil resistance provided by Mouser is presented below. A resistance of 77 Ohms and a coil current of 20 mA The current 125mA
You really need to give me more details before I can answer that. The coil and the fan need two wires each so yes, but two wires for the coil and two wires for the fan would suffice. *Note Terminals 1 & 2 The coil terminals 2 & 3 are represented by the number 3 Four of them are In this section you will find the following*br>terminals 5 & 6 They are numbered 6 through 10.
A similar problem occurred to me as well- I found that my spade wasn't making a good connection with the relay terminal. It was a little snug, so I squeezed it a little more.
There is no way to replace the relay you are trying to replace with this one since it has a lower amperage rating. Several years have passed since the 1990s There are the following specifications for the 380 relay A power supply that can deliver 12A. Power is continuous and 60 amps. The Inrush current for this device is 8 amps at 125 volts. The current is continuous and 48 amps. The inrush current is 18 amps at 250 Volts AC. *FLA = Full Load Amps, "Continuous" = Locked Rotor Amps *LRA = Locked Rotor Amps 270 VAC
Selected User Reviews For Emerson 90 380 Fan Relay 24 Volt Coil, 1
It is my hope that the picture will help The label on Amazon does not show the wiring diagram or a quarter for sizing, therefore I am including a picture of the wiring diagram and a quarter for sizing. We must search the web for the actual specifications after reading the description. It is priced well, has a good form factor, and is a flexible hook-up The performance update is as follows used four of these for a month and they have been perfect. I was worried about chatter noise based on another review, but mine are only quiet if I click the button to change There is a possibility the power supply of the other reviewer was still underpowered and could not hold the contacts firmly in place. In a few seconds after the contacts are inserted, the unit is a few degrees above the ambient temperature Temperatures slightly higher than those in the surrounding area.
As I only had three wires in the wall, I could utilize this relay along with an appropriate 24v transformer to enable my Ecobee 4 to work with my TT dry contact boiler. I used the third wire in conjunction with that 24v transformer to make it work. For more information, see ecobee____/hc/en . The ecology bee- Temperature control - The installation process In conjunction with The isolation of I'd like you to relay ___ to me You are reading I was amazed to discover that the part I was missing was the "isolation relay," which you have to wire up according to the schematic.
The C wire on my system is only available for turning on the heat, so I couldn't just plug in my Nest.
After doing some research, I found that a transformer and relay are the best ways to create a 24v power supply. According to some tutorials, you can plug the two wires connected to the transformer into the C and Rc ports on the Nest to make it work (which it does) but you run the risk of it sending 24 volts of power to your millivolt system, which would be dangerous. Therefore, I wired up my transformer in the way I described above. I connected the Rh wire to my thermostat, then ran the W wire from the thermostat to this relay on the control end of the circuit and then ran the back wire to complete it. After that I simply connected the red and white wires coming from the boiler to the relay's controlled side. I thoroughly eliminated any possibility of the two voltages crossing on my old heating system and upset anything. Moreover, I ran an additional wire for the C and Rc ports in order to provide continuous power, which is not necessary in this setup, just for my own peace of mind. Now that it has started getting cold, this relay has been tested and has succeeded. Nest automatically starts heating when the Nest sensor indicates heat is needed and the relay initiates the heat immediately upon a reliable click. It is important to keep in mind that this is a physical relay, so there will be some noise with it. Put it somewhere out of sight if you don't want to hear it. It may be possible to find a solid state relay that does the same job if you are not a fan.
My purpose was to activate the humidifier on my furnace, and it worked well. There is a Bryant Evolution Furnace with Evolution Control as well as a Honeywell 360A humidifier I use in a similar situation. Upon completion of installation, the coil side of the relay was connected to the HUM and COM terminals on the furnace board, and the NO contacts were connected to My next step was to set up the humidifier in the Evolution Control advanced settings so that the humidifier will activate once the heat commands are received, activating both the HUM and COM with 24V. I use my Evolution Control to control the humidity based on the outside temperature from the outside temperature sensor, and it works well. There may be differences in your application if you have different equipment or a different system.
The relay serves as an activation relay for my whole house humidifier. Even though my water comes from a well with filters and softener, the unit leaves an overwhelming amount of white residue and kills pretty much any evaporation process. It will take 6 months for the humidifier to work. Therefore, I designed a reverse osmosis system to be hooked up to a misting humidifier. It worked great, with the exception of the lack of water pressure following the RO system that allowed this humidifier to atomize water properly. This relay enabled me to activate the pump once a 24 volt signal is sent by the furnace humidifier's contact once it has received a 24 volt signal. My pump has its own power supply, so all I had to do is turn it on as soon as the humidifier started. My humidifier has a solenoid valve, and so I connected the relay in series with the solenoid valve, and it has not worked. I have not found a solenoid valve or relay that works. As a result, the voltage falls to 12 volts because the relay draws so much current. Consequently, it just does not close the contacts when there are other loads on the line. The relay is not closing even when it is linked to the solenoid valve. It appeared as if it was connected in parallel with the solenoid valve, however the solenoid valve is working and the water is flowing. I may have received a defective product. To get it to work, I had to buy a temperature switch that would activate once the furnace was hot, closing the relay contacts. That way I was able to activate the solenoid valve and the booster pump. This is less than ideal evaporation humidifiers automatically fire up as soon as the furnace fan kicks on, and they can humidify the air even if there is no furnace heating. You can use it when you have a wood burning stove and don't want to use the central fan to circulate There should be an indication of the current drawn by the relay in the description. My guess is that it still works, but my circuit cannot carry any other load. Even a 1 didn't work for me It took a 6A 24v supply (transformer with a bridge) and still it wasn't.
When my heat pump was turned off, the fan to circulate the air would run continuously, even while the compressor and outdoor fan were not operating. In the energized position, the relay of the indoor fan was stuck. As a result of replacing the relay with this one, the indoor fan now turns on and off as it should. I'm glad that it was only $7 to have it fixed. A technician will come to your house for less than $30 and some labor than they would charge for a house call.
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