Functional Devices RIBU1C Enclosed Pilot Relay, 10 Amp Spdt with 10-30 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil (Pack of 2)
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
The device comes with a wiring diagram, and the coil side of the wires can be wired with either a 10- or a 20-gauge wire. Depending on the wires you use, you can get a 30VAC/DC or 120VAC signal.
If I understand you correctly, you want to turn off the 24v that powers the coil and use the contacts for lighting. If that is the case, yes you can, but you should note that this model is only rated for certain wattages and horsepowers, so you should know your current load and load type before purchasing this relay, as you may need to go up a size.
It says in the description that the amp is 10 amp.
To use it as a buffer, you'll need to wire it up like this. Connect your 120 volt wires black (hot) to orange, white (neutral) to yellow, and 12 volt wires to white wire with yellow strips and white wire with blue stripes.
Selected User Reviews For Functional Devices RIBU1C Enclosed Pilot Relay, 10 Amp Spdt with 10-30 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil (Pack of 2)
This relay was used in the wiring of a Panasonic FV-XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 15VKL1 ceiling fan, rather than tearing up a lot of sheet rock to run a separate Romex cable for the fan control wires. When the light is turned on, the fan will turn on as well. NOTE: This is only useful because the fan is equipped with a control module. If no control modules are available, instead of using a relay, simply run switched power to the fan. br>br>There is an extra knock-out on the fan's junction box. out that perfectly fits the 1/2" NPT nipple on the relay and the included nut How to connect the dots is shown in the attached photo. Although all of the wires and wire nuts will barely fit inside the junction box, you can always cut and re-route the relay wires to make them shorter. stripping and refinishing If necessary, tin them. It's worth noting that there's a 20-minute delay after you turn off the light before the fan turns off (unless you install the delay module and set it to a different value). It's also common for the fan to take about 40 seconds to reach operating speed after the light is turned on. It should be as safe as any other piece of electrical equipment because it is UL listed and fire rated, and I had it installed by a licensed electrician. The only obvious disadvantage is the lack of durability and dependability. It's rated for 10 million cycles, which is more than 250 years at 100 uses per day, but I suspect the shelf life is much less than that. If it wears out while I own the house, I'll make a post about it. br>br>At 120VAC, I measured the coil's power consumption to be 300mW. The coil current is rated at 28mA, but because it is mostly reactive, the measurement is 2. At 120VAC, the voltage is 5VAR.
I needed to install LED strip lighting in a pantry closet, but the only power source was a three-way switch. However, there was no power at the other three-way switch, and running a wire to the nearest power outlet was nearly impossible. br>I was pleasantly surprised to find this already made relay all encased for easy and safe wiring when I was doing some wiring diagrams. When the 3 way switch is operated from the other distant switch, the power changes to the other side of the switch I'm using for power. I ordered two of them, but after some thought, only one was needed using the NC and NO contacts. br>What it solves is that when the 3 way switch is operated from the other distant switch, the power changes to the opposite side of the switch I'm using for power. When the relay is turned on, it supplies voltage to the load via the NO contacts; however, when the power is switched to the other side of the three-way switch, the relay is turned off, and the power flows through the NC contacts. br>The only minor issue is that when the power is briefly interrupted while the relay is operating, the motion sensor turns on by default when the power is restored. It only happens when the distant three-way switch is used, and the LED light turns off after 30 seconds. This is perfectly acceptable.
We have a rental property with a small pool and a 12VAC-powered RGB pool light. The light has a variety of colorful programs, including some that cycle through multiple colors. Very unappealing. All we needed was a bright white light. The issue is that you choose programs by cycling through the available options. Switch on and off N times until you reach the desired program or color. Because this is a rental property, tenants are constantly fiddling with the light switches to figure out which one controls which, and before long, the pool light is cycling through some obnoxious sequence of green, purple, or whatever. br>br>In addition, we have LED landscape lights that turn on at dusk and turn off at sunrise. The photocell circuit has enough hysteresis that the lights turn on and off cleanly at dusk and dawn. It's ideal for turning on and off the pool light without changing the program inadvertently. The only issue is that the landscape lights use 12VDC while the pool light uses 12VAC. As a result, we couldn't simply connect the pool light to the landscape lighting. This relay was the ideal solution. br>br> I used the output relay to control the 120VAC side of the step-down transformer by connecting the "input coil" to the landscape lights' 12VDC output. On the pool light, there is a down transformer. Voila! The pool light turns on with the landscape lights each night and turns off with them the next morning. Because there is no flickering to fool the pool light into changing programs, it consistently stays on the last program I set, which is "white. " br>br>Even the threads on the relay are correct for a standard 1/2 inch electrical knockout. I simply went to the local "depot for homes" store and purchased a cheap fitting, a rubber washer, and a thrust nut to allow me to install the relay for the pool light on the side of the transformer box.
solution contained within a box For the money, this device is difficult to beat. This small relay-type device is A 1/2 inch knockout on an electrical junction box can be used to mount the box. My unit is externally mounted on a small plastic junction box, with the wires running through it. Because plain old wire nuts work great, I like that the wires are solid (looks like tinned stranded but it is that way throughout the wire length). I've also tried the Wago 221 wire connectors, which are also excellent. The LED indicates whether the relay is energized at a glance. Why build your own when you can get everything you need for a low price? I have three of these in use and am very pleased with how well they are performing.
Related Products For Functional Devices RIBU1C Enclosed Pilot Relay, 10 Amp Spdt with 10-30 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil (Pack of 2)
