Micro Swiss MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistant Nozzle (MakerBot, CraftBot, Creality, CR10, Ender 3, Ender 5, Tevo Tornado) .4mm

I'm not sure why this nozzle is causing so much trouble for people. 99% of negative reviews on this site are due to user error, I will say. Carbon Fiber PLA was printed using the stock Ender 3 hotend. I correctly installed the nozzle, increased the temperature in Cura by about 5 degrees (print a temp test tower to determine your temperature), and began printing. Without any clogs or other issues, I've gone through at least 4kg of CF/PLA and 8kg of PLA and PETG. br>The nozzle is still in excellent condition, stays clean, and prints beautifully.

Hunter Cannon

| Sep 27, 2021

It worked with about a half-dozen prints when I got it to work. I was able to get the nozzle to work at 20mm/s at 260C with PETG and at the same speed at 240C with PLA. I had been using the cheap brass ones from China (the kind that come in a pack of 30 for $10) up until this point. They printed PETG at 230 degrees and 60 millimeters per second, but they had to be replaced on a monthly basis. I was desperate for this nozzle to become my permanent nozzle. This is the one I'd install and never have to replace. This is not the case, unfortunately. I gave it two stars because it works, but it is inefficient in terms of both energy and time. And I'm done with it after two Saturdays of tinkering. I'm going back to the inexpensive ones and will try to recycle them so that I don't feel so bad about the waste.

Madisyn Arnold

| Jun 03, 2021

After replacing, my general PLA/PETG temperatures wouldn't work as well. To get acceptable prints, I had to increase the heat and the nozzle temperature by about 10 degrees for the first week or so. I was able to return to my previous settings after the first week. It's extremely strange and hasn't been documented.

Stephen Shepard

| Jun 09, 2021

First and foremost, it works perfectly on the Monoprice Ultimate 2. br>br> Many customer reviews claim that in order to get good print, they must increase the temperature settings. and that their old temperature settings worked fine with inexpensive brass nozzles, so why aren't they working with this expensive nozzle? After that, they give this nozzle a low score. It's PHYSICS! br>br> When compared to steel, brass conducts heat much more quickly. Not the tip, but the heating block has the temperature sensor. As a result, the system is unaware that you've switched to a steel tip, which conducts heat slower than brass. As a result, you'll have to experiment with different filaments to determine the best temperature setting for the steel nozzle. br>br>Once you've figured out the new temperature, it works great and lasts much longer than the cheap brass nozzles. br>br>Take the time to figure out settings for a long-lasting nozzle, or keep buying cheap brass nozzles and discarding them.

Analia Curry

| Jul 01, 2021

The print quality and nozzle quality are both excellent. This nozzle can only print effectively at very slow speeds, so I'm giving it three stars. In comparison to the brass nozzle it replaced, I can only run at 20mm/s with it. On the original nozzle that came with the printer, I was able to achieve a speed of 50 mm/s. Because the nozzle cannot heat the plastic quickly enough, going faster than 20mm/s will cause the extruder to eat through the filament. I can increase the speed to 25mm/s by raising the temperature to around 20 degrees above the filament's recommended temperature, but I'm not comfortable with that, so I'm not going to do that. br>br>Removing the nozzle and inspecting it reveals that it is free of clogs. The heater block, break, and heatsink were all inspected as well. There are no obvious signs of clogging or wear on the extruder.

Henley Graves

| Nov 12, 2021

I needed something a little more durable to print glow in the dark, and this fit the bill perfectly. Steel heats differently than brass, so I had to tweak my settings a little. This is a good option if you want a nozzle that will last a long time.

Melanie Burnett

| Jun 07, 2021

I'm having a hard time getting good prints from it for some reason. People say you should raise the temperature for steel nozzles, so I started with one of the temp tower test prints. Of course, I adjusted my z offsets and double-checked that everything was in good working order. br>br>However, no matter what settings I use, stringing persists. PETG has a proclivity for sticking to the nozzle - In contrast to what I read online, using a standard brass nozzle immediately resolves the problem. br>br>For the price of this, I could get a 20-pack of cigarettes. I don't see the point in purchasing this one unless you go through a nozzle every week or less.

Coen Allen

| Apr 09, 2021

On the Creality Ender-II, I tried this nozzle. 5 when using the Micro- Hotend made entirely of metal from Switzerland. The hot- When the hot-end printed the parts, however, this nozzle caused tiny hairs to be pulled across the part. end has been relocated I tried a variety of retraction settings but couldn't seem to get past the tiny hairs. This wasn't too much of a problem because I could use a hot air gun to clean them off, which I do with heat shrink. br>br>The real issue was adhesion to the bed. The PLA did not adhere to the bed throughout the print when using this nozzle, resulting in a warning. I switched back to the standard nozzle, followed the same gcode, maintained the same temperatures, used the same material, and printed on the same bed surface, and my PLA adhered to the bed without issue. The part on the left was printed with a standard nozzle, while the part on the right was printed with a Micro Swiss MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistant Nozzle. Both prints were made with the same gcode. This nozzle and PLA have a serious adhesion problem. br>br>Whatever they used to coat this nozzle for wear resistance has a significant impact on the materials.

Ava Forbes

| Jan 18, 2021