PuraFlame Western Electric Fireplace Insert with Fire Crackling Sound, Remote Control, 750/1500W, Black, 22 53/64 Inches Wide, 20 3/64 Inches High
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The framing opening size refers to the size of the opening into which the insert will be installed. There are two different ways to build a fireplace. The hearth (the inside of the fireplace) is made entirely of brick, and air is drawn from the room and carried up the chimney along with ash and smoke. The other option, which is similar to mine, is to install a 1/8-inch thick steel insert inside the fireplace that covers all of the walls and the floor with special fire bricks. It also necessitates the installation of airflow vents in the brick facing of the fireplace, which must be filled in if the insert is used to avoid the loss of room air up the chimney. Some people want to install the insert inside an existing wall and build a mantle around it; however, you must measure your opening correctly or you will receive the incorrect model insert and have to return it, which adds time to the final result. Some hearths are flush with the floor or have a raised ledge (because some fireplaces are set a foot or so above the main floor), while others, like mine, have a 1" or 2" inch ledge (difference) between the floor and the heart I drilled into the brick, used 3 1/2" inch concrete screws, cut a recess hole in the wood so the screws wouldn't protrude from the wood, and screwed the wood to the brick on each side and the bottom (to fill that 2" inch drop to the hearth floor), and then used door/window caulking to fill in all gaps between the ledge built in front of my fireplace and the top of the opening with no gap, while I had a 2" inch gap to each side Then, in case the cabinet to the insert gets hot while using the heater, I bought special fireplace insulation and installed it on all four corners so that when I pushed the insert in, the insulation rested against the back of the cabinet, insulating the gap around the cabinet. Because of the 2x4 I used to fill the gap between the hearth floor and the ledge, the cabinet's base could rest on a solid surface. Because there was no flat surface for the base to rest on before I installed that 2x4, the cabinet base tilted slightly outward after I inserted the insert. I also removed the handles so that there would be no gaps on either side of the cabinet. Furthermore, because my fireplace has an electrical outlet 5 feet to the left, I cut out the wall, drilled through the wood, brick, cement, and steel, installed an electrical wire, and installed an outlet to the upper rear of the hearth so the cabinet would not be obstructed when I inserted it and I could plug in the unit to hide the cord. You do not need any mounting brackets, screws, or other material to secure or mount the cabinet into an opening whether it is a firepl
My fireplace was encased in stone. I don't need it for heating because I live in Florida.
Because the insert has a heating option, you must make sure the wall is properly ventilated and insulated with heat-resistant insulation. To prevent heat buildup from the heater and the cabinet from becoming too hot, which could cause the unit to "burn out" or cause a fire, you should have some type of vent installed above the unit, similar to the range top for a stove, to allow any heat from the unit to escape the wall.
Mine is almost completely silent. In fact, I'm quite pleased with the level of noise it produces. Is it only audible when the heat is turned on or when the "flames" are lit? The flames are simulated by a rotating wheel.
Selected User Reviews For PuraFlame Western Electric Fireplace Insert with Fire Crackling Sound, Remote Control, 750/1500W, Black, 22 53/64 Inches Wide, 20 3/64 Inches High
This fireplace is one of my favorites, and I use it from morning to night! We primarily use it for the lovely lighting! We have yet to use it as a source of heat. This is something I strongly advise you to get. Thank you very much!.
I hope this information is useful to others. When purchasing something like this, I like to gather as much information as possible. br>Was looking for an electric fireplace insert for the back room of a townhouse on the first floor that didn't have the option of a wood burner, and a gasser would have required some major and expensive changes. I had looked at some rather pricey options, such as top-of-the-line units from a company whose name rhymed with shmimplex. They appeared to be of good quality, but the price was quite high. I found this unit while searching and it 'looked' pretty good based on the photos and reviews (I also emailed and harassed the company for a video of the unit in action-- something that is conspicuously absent from their entire marketing collateral). Based on the video that was sent (which is included below), I decided to give it a shot. For an electric, the flame effect was quite impressive. br>Excellent: br> br>It arrived in good condition, with no visible signs of wear. br>Dimensions were as advertised, and it fit perfectly into the cutout I'd made in the fireplace surround. br>It's a simple process; there are three flame settings to choose from. high, high with more colors, and low are the three levels of difficulty. br>The blower heater feels like you're being blown warm air by a hair dryer, which isn't bad. br>As long as you don't try to cram your face against the logset, it looks pretty good. br>The flame effect is quite nice, and the video from the company accurately portrays it; It turned out to be even better than I had anticipated. You won't be able to fool anyone into believing it's real flame, but it's probably one of the best bang-for-buck options available. Things to keep in mind: br>br> br>I tried to photograph the scene behind the fireplace, but the plexi cover was too reflective; It's actually a flat print, which I mistook for a textured brick backdrop. I would have paid a few dollars more for a brick-textured background. It's not a game-changer, but it's something that hasn't been clearly demonstrated elsewhere. br>The blower pulls air from the back of the unit and pushes it through the front horizontal slot; This means you'll need to include an air source and enough clearance in the back of your enclosure. The dark equipment shelf above the fireplace was actually cut back to allow air down into the fireplace in my case, but it's not visible. There's no need to be concerned.
This 26" version, which I recessed into a wall, has met all of my expectations. The flame pattern and flickering log set look extremely realistic, especially when viewed from a distance. The firebox is well constructed and sturdy, as other reviews have stated. I simply plugged it in and switched it on after unpacking it. The white power cord is about 5 feet long and connects to the upper left side of the unit (if you're looking at the back end). In my case, I slid the fire box in through a hole in the wall that was slightly larger than the fire box's size. The cutout was made directly in front of an open space behind the wall that happened to be below a stairwell landing. As a result, I had enough space for the unit to be at least 8 inches deep. br>br> I left about an inch and a half between the top of the unit and the cutout in the top wall. Be advised that when the heat is turned up high, the inside top of the unit gets very hot, so I'll be watching for heat buildup inside that wall. To keep heat from rising up the inside wall, I can always add a strip of cement board. Because this unit is about 12 inches above the ceiling in my basement, I ran a dedicated line/receptacle to the ceiling joist and dropped the power cord through a hole in the floor for power. The wiring is completely hidden. Remember, this is just a glorified space heater, so plugging it into a nearby outlet should suffice as long as the circuit isn't overloaded. It is never a good idea to use an extension cord for any electrical heat because of resistance and voltage drop over length. Unless you drill visible holes in the front of the frame, the unit simply slides in and there is no need to anchor the frame to the wall. Although the unit's weight keeps it in place inside the wall, I may build a shelf to rest the back bottom surface, which has a 1 inch lip on the top, left, and right sides. On the bottom, there's no lip. I can easily pull the unit forward from the top and remove it from the cutout if necessary, but as long as it functions properly, I may simply caulk the bottom edge and leave it alone. br>br>On high, the fan is very quiet and heat is blown from the upper left of the unit. It sounds like forced air coming through ceiling vents in a quiet room or a computer fan. The room is approximately 13 X 9 feet in size, with a ceiling height of approximately 9 feet. There are three large windows in the room, each with lounge chairs directly in front of them. For additional heat, there are two long, forced hot water baseboards. On very cold days (highs in the 20s F), the windows in this room (which are about 10 years old) make it drafty in there, so we hope this will help. If this unit was used alone, I don't think the room would be adequately heated. In fact, I was a little disappointed with the heat output, but a louder fan would have resulted in more noise, so we'll see how things go. However, if you stand in front of the unit after coming in from being out in the cold, it will help to warm you up faster.
This unit was purchased with the intention of completing a full condominium renovation. My general contractor put it in place in early December 2017. It was well-made and had a slim, attractive appearance. Friends complimented me and my family on how much fun we had. I smelled burning two weeks ago and discovered that the electrical cord had been severely burned just 20 minutes after turning on the light. My living room was on the verge of catching fire. br>br>I contacted Amazon's customer service department and informed them of the issue. In addition, I purchased a four-year Square Trade plan for this product and filed a claim for the accident. Amazon provided me with the company's phone number and instructed me to call for a one-year warranty. br>br>On January 17, 2018, I called the company (phone number. 844- 377- 5786) and filed a complaint about the problem. The customer service representative was pleasant and assured me that the company would contact me within 24 hours. Emails and phone calls took 48 hours to respond to. I called the company again after not hearing from them for over a week. Cathy, the customer service rep, was awful. She is unconcerned about the fire risk and informs me that if the company sends the electronic cord itself, I must pay the shipping fee. I requested to speak with her manager for better service, but she repeatedly cut me off and hung up on me. br>br>It's possible that my product is a lemon. It is possible, as far as I am aware. Thankfully, I was able to handle it just before a major fire broke out in my condo. The warranty service and related customer service provided by the company are extremely unprofessional.
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