Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens

The "nifty fifty," oh, the "nifty fifty"! Without a doubt, Canon's best-selling lens, if not all lenses, is this one. This is due to its high price-to-performance ratio. It's good for both crop and full frame, and it should be every beginner's first upgrade lens, as I'll go over in the review. As with all WOFG reviews, I'll go over the advantages and disadvantages, offer tips on how to use the lens, and make some recommendations at the end. Let's take a look at the pros and cons of this situation. br>br>Secondary Benefitsbr>1. Price – The price is right at the top of the list, usually around 125 USD, though it can be had new for as little as 100 USD. There aren't many lenses in this price range that can perform as well as this one. Most of them come with a lot of trade-offs. The Canon F1 has a number of flaws, including a lack of or poor autofocus, increased aberrations or fringing, softness when wide open, and poor build quality. The compromises made by 8 STM are minimal. This isn't to say there aren't better lenses out there; there simply aren't any in this price range. The Yongnuo 50mm F1 is most likely the closest. 8 is a less expensive lens (approximately $50). However, the Canon outperforms the Yongnuo by enough to justify the extra $50 or so it costs; AF performance alone makes it a better choice; the Yongnuo's is spotty at best.
2. Image quality – Sharp lens that maintains sharpness even when shot wide open (F1). 8). The contrast and colors are pleasing. If you're working with an APS-compliant camera, keep this in mind. If you use a C/crop camera, such as one from the Rebel series, you'll notice a significant difference in image quality between this lens and the 18-55mm. Your camera's lens is probably a 55mm lens. The F1 appeals to me as a full frame user. The 8mm F1 is a better choice than the 50mm F1. 4 USM, for reasons that I'll explain later in this review. I recommend this lens over any other lens as your first upgrade to your camera because of its excellent IQ and low price. I can't emphasize enough how valuable this lens is for both crop and full frame users. It's possible that this is the best deal in all of photography.
3. STM video focusing – If you're not familiar with the Canon STM focusing system, it's a silent video focusing system. It's also good for still photos, though it might be a little slow depending on what you're doing (see drawbacks). In any case, it was extremely quiet in video when I tested it on an 80D and a 5DmkIV. As the lens focused, there was no sound. Note that the silent focus feature of STM is not supported by all Canon cameras. It is not compatible with any model prior to the T4i. Additionally, even the most recent versions (T5, T6, T7, or older) of the base models do not support it. AF is still possible with this lens. There's a chance it won't be quiet. Another thing to keep in mind is that even in manual mode, STM requires power to focus. If you're going to use extension tubes or other adaptors, keep that in mind. They don't all provide the lens with power.
4. Great focal length – The most "classic" of focal lengths on a full frame camera is 50mm. Very useful for general photography as well as portraits with some context (i. e. , the photo includes more of the surroundings). It's also the most popular focal length for street photography (though I confess I'm not a big fan). When using an APS-C camera Its function as a C camera is more defined. The crop factor reduces this to an equivalent focal length of 80mm, which is ideal for portraits with that classic "isolated" look. Consider hanging 8x10 portraits or even senior portraits on your wall. When the F1 is added, the result is a powerful combination. On any APS-C camera, I believe 8 aperture is the best option for portraits. For budget shooters, the C camera is a good option. On a crop camera, it will produce images that are similar to what an 85mm lens would produce on a full frame camera. A word about 85mm lenses: you've probably heard that it's the best portrait lens. This assumes, however, that you're shooting with a full frame camera, which is one of the most popular options for portrait photography. The 85mm lens isn't as good for this purpose on a crop camera. It will either happen one of two ways. Because the added distance between you and your subject robs the 85mm of all the things that make it special for portraits when used on a crop (background blur), you'll either have to frame everything too tightly (mostly headshots and bust ups) or move further away to properly frame your subject. It's not just about being able to shoot at 85mm; it's also about being able to do so from the distance required to frame a classic portrait, while using a wide aperture to achieve the background blur that distance creates while still having enough depth to keep the main subject in sharp focus. Moving away from the camera reduces compression while also reducing detail. You want to be close for the classic look, and the 50mm provides that much more than an 85mm on a crop sensor camera. If you have a crop sensor/APS-C camera, I suggest using the 50mm focal length for portraits. C camera. With portraits, it's all about the distance between you and your subject, and knowing the length that works best for you based on your sensor size will get you a long way.
5. Fast aperture – For those who have only used the lens that came with your camera, this is the primary reason I believe you should purchase this lens (aside from the price). The F1. 8 aperture is a fairly fast aperture for a lens, providing not only a significant increase in light throughput but also the coveted bokeh effect for portraits, as previously described. If you've never seen what a wide aperture can do, this is one of the most cost-effective ways to do so, and it's also one of the best!
6. Compatible with all EOS cameras – I'm putting this here mostly for people's information, because I frequently get questions like "will this fit on my camera?" " Because this lens is EF, it will work with any Canon EOS camera. " That's the case with full-frame models. 1D, 5D, and 6D are the first, fifth, and sixth degrees of separation. The crop sensor (APS-C) is a type of camera sensor that captures images C models; All of the Rebels, as well as the middle of the pack From the 10D to the 80D, as well as the 7D, there are a variety of models to choose from. If you have an adaptor for EF lenses, it can also be used on mirrorless cameras. It even works on older film EOS cameras, all the way back to the first ones released in 1987!
7. This lens has a good minimum focus distance of just over a foot, so you can get pretty close to your subject and still get sharp results. On crop sensor cameras, I find that this works well for close-up photography. Not quite as good as a true macro or even an EF-S lens. F2 S 24mm Although only 8 STM, this is still a good score. With the addition of an extension tube, you've got yourself a low-cost macro setup. (Kenko Extension Tubes are a good choice. )br>8. Other features include a 49mm filter thread, which means cheap filters if that's your thing. Because this is a rare size, a step down ring with a larger filter may be preferable. Mount is made of metal. Full-time manual focus override (before turning the focus ring, half-press the shutter button to "wake" the camera). Overall, the EF 50mm F1 is a better lens than the previous model. 8 II (refer to the table below for a comparison). In comparison to other fast 50mm primes, this lens is extremely light. br>br>Contrary to popular belief, there are a number of disadvantages to using this product. The majority of this is for your information and isn't worth losing a star for. If I take away a star for any reason, I will explain why. Otherwise, it is the user's responsibility to be aware of what they are receiving and how to use it.
1. Wide open (F1), this isn't ideal. 8) – Despite the fact that it performs better wide open than the previous F1. Even when shooting at F1 with the 4 model, there is a slight loss of clarity. It's not a big deal because most shots will need to be stopped down to increase depth of field anyway (which means using a smaller aperture). I use F2 as my shutter speed. I use 8 a lot for portraits because it gives me more sharpness without sacrificing too much exposure or background blur. I believe this is more noticeable on a full frame camera than on a crop, because it's around the outer edges of the lens where it's the worst (a crop camera doesn't see the lens's outer edges). At F1, the sharpness in the center is still quite good. I didn't notice any significant chromatic aberration issues, but then again, I don't use the lens in situations with a lot of backlight, where these issues are most noticeable. I haven't heard from anyone else that this is an issue, whereas on the F1 it is. It's the 4th model. (For more information, please see the comparison)br>2. A little soft in the corners – As you might expect from a lens of this caliber, it loses clarity near the frame's edges. At F1, this is the most obvious. It's more noticeable on a full frame camera than on a crop camera, at 8. Even at F2, you can see a difference, though the edges are never as sharp as they are in the center at larger apertures. However, I do not believe this is a deal breaker. When compared to lenses like the EF 50mm F1, this is the most significant difference in image quality. 2, or the Sigma 50mm F1 telephoto lens. 4, both lenses are well-known for their high optical quality. However, those lenses are significantly more expensive: the Sigma costs 950 dollars, while the Canon costs 1400 dollars! You choose the "nifty 50" because the trade-offs vs. price are just too good to pass up, at least until you decide whether you want to spend more on a higher-quality lens.
3. Focus by Wire – Because this is an STM lens, the focusing gears are not mechanically connected. This means that instead of tuning the focus as you turn the focus ring, the camera receives an electronic signal to do so. It doesn't have the same level of precision as mechanical focus. Because I don't use manual focus with this lens, it isn't a big deal for me. The F1 may be preferable if you do a lot of manual focusing. 4 model. Again, I'm not bothered by wire focusing, but I'm not aware of a single photographer who prefers it to mechanical focusing.
4. No image stabilization (IS) – This camera does not have image stabilization. This is only a problem if you want to shoot at slower shutter speeds than 1/50 sec (1/80 on crop). Because of the lens's fast aperture, this isn't an issue very often. It is less suitable for vlogging, but the focal length is already insufficient (vlogging is done from wider angles than this). For me, it didn't matter because there was no scenario in which I would use this lens where having IS would be useful. This isn't the lens to get if you want a 50mm lens with IS. There isn't one made by Canon, and I'm not aware of any third-party 50mm lenses that have it. Adding IS, on the other hand, tends to result in a slight loss of overall sharpness due to the floating element that performs the stabilizing, a significant price increase, and most likely a loss of overall max aperture. So I'm not sure I'd want it on a lens like this, given that the price, fast aperture, and IQ are the main reasons I'm recommending it.
5. Various items – It does not come with a hood. For hoods, I recommend Promaster (which is less expensive than Canon and works just as well). I didn't anticipate a hood for the price of the lens. The hood is reversible, but it covers the entire outside of the lens, increasing its diameter slightly. The design is primarily made of plastic, with a metal mount. The casing isn't fragile, but it does have a solid feel to it. There is no protection from the elements or from dust. Because STM focus is slower than USM, it isn't ideal for sports, but it's not impossible (sports should be shot in continuous focus mode). br>I can't think of anything negative to say about this lens that isn't washed out by its price; it's simply a fantastic value for the performance it provides. br>br>Conclusionsbr>Wow, what a wonderful little lens! It's fantastic on any Canon, from the entry-level SL2 to the professional 5DmkIV, and I've used it on all of them. Gives me good images on a regular basis. I alternate between the Canon F1 and the Canon F2 on occasion. 8, as well as the Sigma 50mm F1 lens. 4. I also have to check which lens took which shot when I'm going through the photos. It's a pretty good match. In the end, the Sigma outperforms it in terms of overall image quality, but as I previously stated, that lens is extremely expensive. I am now a fairly serious shooter, and I am occasionally compensated for my efforts. As a result, I'm able to justify the higher-priced Sigma lens. But it was on the Canon F1 that I got my start. To get to that point, you'll need to have a score of 8 or higher. If you're looking to take your photography more seriously, or simply want to improve on the quality of your kit lens, the 50mm F1 is a great option. Without breaking the bank, number eight is probably the best option. It's affordable for anyone, and the image quality will improve immediately. Simply understand how to put it to the best possible use on your camera, as described earlier in the review. I don't see why someone couldn't use this lens to progress to higher levels of photography in the future, or simply keep using it if it meets all of their needs. br>br>When comparing the Canon EF 50mm F1 lens to the Canon EF 50mm F2. 8 II – This lens is similar to the STM model in price. This is a lens that I strongly advise against using. It's the older version of the "nifty 50," and the STM model outperforms it in every way. If you already have it, it most likely functions satisfactorily. I'd take the STM model over the older model for about the same price, and I'm not going to bother with a comparison because the older model has no advantages over the new one. Even if you can get the F1, the STM model is clearly superior. 8 II is less expensive, but the STM model is so cheap that I don't think it's worth it to save a few dollars. This is also why I don't think the Yongnuo 50mm F1 is a good choice. It is available for as little as 45 dollars, but you get what you pay for. If that's all you can afford, I'm sure you'll be able to make it work, but anyone who has already spent $400 or more on a camera should be able to make it work. br>br>When comparing the Canon EF 50mm F1 lens to the Canon EF 50mm F2. 4 – Now we're in the thick of it. The F1. People also like the 4 model because it is reasonably priced for its class (around $300 USD). When compared to the F1, it has the upper hand. It has a 4 aperture, which is two-thirds of a stop more than the F1. 8 (theoretically 66% more light, though reality is like 33%) This allows you to shoot at faster shutter speeds or lower ISO, as well as having a shallower depth of field (DOF), but it comes with some trade-offs. The F1 is a good example. When shot wide open, the 4 is known for having soft focus and chromatic aberrations. Stop at about F2-level to avoid these issues. As a result, the F1 does not provide any additional value. Since F1, there have been four more. Wide open, the 8 STM is still reasonably sharp and free of aberrations, and it is technically sharper at F2. 8 in comparison to the F1 4 lens (in testing, there is no discernible difference; in the real world, there is no discernible difference). I simply don't see the "advantage" of F1 given the price difference. However, some people prefer the F1's soft focus look, which is worth nearly $200 in extra cost. 4 model, which you won't find on the F1. 8 STM without the use of any software, filter, or other method (I've seen chapstick used on a UV filter to accomplish this, LOL). The 50m F1 is the way to go if you want that. If you're just looking to add a better lens to your kit for a low price, the F1 isn't a bad option; however, if you're looking to add a better lens to your kit for a low price, the F1 isn't a good option. The number four has an advantage over the number one. For the money, I would give it an 8. I don't think the extra light or shallow DOF will make a huge difference in any situation, and you'll be shooting at similar settings anyway for good quality images. The F1. The 4 model is a very old lens (it was first released in 1993) that has never been updated. The F1. The 50mm F1 is much newer, with newer engineering and lens coatings. 4 is nearly extinct. I can't recall recommending it over the STM model at any point. I prefer it to the 50mm F1 in terms of image quality. Model #8 II The EF 50mm F1 is a great lens for everyday use. Canon's best 50mm lens on a budget is the 8 STM. If you already own a 50mm F1 lens, you can skip this step. 4 Then just keep using it; it's a good lens once you figure out how to use it. If you don't already own either, put some money aside and get the F1. Instead, opt for the 8 STM model and invest the money in a new lens! br>br>Other Suggestions – A WOFG review would be incomplete without some suggestions! I'm going to approach this a little differently because there isn't another 50mm lens in this price range that I would recommend for crop or full frame photography. Instead, I'll make a list of my "first four Canon APS-C lenses to buy. " C/crop cameras" were created to make it easier for people to get a more diverse lens kit. However, because the 50mm F1 is only good for cropping, the list is only useful for croppers. Only the number 8 can be mounted to a full frame camera. I don't have such a list for full frame users, but I do have a couple of suggestions for other lenses that full frame shooters on a budget might find useful. br>br>Users of crops - I'll just list the entire list, including the 50mm, along with my recommendations for each lens.
1. The Canon EF 50mm F1 lens has a focal length of 50 millimeter The lens in question is the 8 STM. On a cropped camera, this is perfect for portraits. There is no other lens at this price that offers this level of quality, speed, or sharpness, as the review will demonstrate.
2. EF- S 55- 250mm F4- 6 IS STM – Best telephoto for under a grand; beats the 75-millimeter telephoto. With the exception of overall reach, all measurements are in millimeters. Used/refurbished/white box "bulk packaging" can be found for around 150 USD when purchased with new cameras.
3. EF- S 10- 18mm F4. 6 IS STM – For landscapes, architecture, large machinery, and anything else that requires a wide angle. Not only because of the wide angle, but also because of the IS (one of the few wide lenses Canon makes with that feature), this lens is great for video, especially vlogging.
4. EF- F2 S 24mm F2 is added by 8 STM. For a low price, add 8 to your shooting (130-130-130-130-130-130-130-130-130-130 150 USD). This allows for faster shutter speeds than the kit lens, making it ideal for shooting moving subjects. It's nice that it's got a wider field of view than the 50mm F1. It's more versatile for framing because it's an 8. br>Each of these lenses adds something unique to your kit, is well-reviewed, and is reasonably priced (under $300 each). If you're a beginner looking to broaden your skills, this setup adds a lot of variety to your arsenal. Prior to purchasing a new camera, always invest in lenses! If you want to learn more about these lenses, visit my profile and read my reviews. Simply click on my name and scroll down until the review appears. br>br>For Full Framebr>1. br>br> The Canon EF 40mm F2 lens has a focal length of 40 millimeter 8 STM – Not as fast as the 50mm, but with a slightly wider angle and a lot less bulk, making it easy to slip into a pocket or purse when out and about. It's just a nice lens for around 150-200 dollars. 180 USD.
2. EF 24- 105mm F4L IS II USM – This is a fairly expensive lens, but it is ideal for those who want a single lens to do the job of several. At 105mm, you can get decent compression, which compensates for the lack of a wider aperture, so it can serve as a substitute for a portrait lens if you only want to photograph your children or other family members. Because of its wide angle of 24mm, it's ideal for most general photography. It's essentially a full-frame Canon kit lens. There are two versions: the most recent (IS II) is the best, but the older model is less expensive and not bad. The Sigma model is nice and much sharper than the Canon models, but the autofocus is sketchy. For the most part, it should suffice. br>I only put these on the list because I know they're good lenses that people enjoy using. I still recommend the 50mm F1 lens. All full-frame users get a score of eight. Even though I have much more expensive lenses, I keep mine so that I can use it when I don't want to risk my Sigma or my 24-70mm. Since I could pretty much throw away my 50mm F1, I decided to go with a 70mm lens. Get a new one at number eight. These other lenses, on the other hand, are quite useful, and I believe that someone who cannot afford many lenses would benefit from them. br>br>That's all I have for now; all you have to do now is look at the pictures. I appreciate you taking the time to read my review. If you enjoyed this review, please visit my profile for more camera gear reviews, and if you found it useful, please remember to click the helpful button. Thank you once more!.

Colette Thomas

| Jun 22, 2021

So, here's the review I believe many people are looking for. What is the performance of the 50mm f/1 lens? 8 WORK WELL IN DARK ROOMS. br>In my opinion, this lens is fantastic. I bought it specifically for shooting live events, and it was a pain in the neck looking for reviews on the subject on the internet. As a result, I'm doing it for anyone else who has been in a similar situation to me. br>FOR LIVE EVENT, INDOOR, AND NIGHT SHOOTING, THIS LENS IS AMAZING! br>I've attached a photo of Ashley Monroe that I took while she was in Los Angeles. Only lighting shone down on the stage in this pitch-black venue. If you're shooting a live event with this lens, I've found that f/3 is the best setting for a super dark venue. The ISO settings and other parameters can then be tweaked depending on the type of light you're working with. br>I took this photo while standing, in Manual mode, with F3 as my aperture setting. 5 - My ISO was set to 1600. br>In extremely low light, this lens performs admirably. As long as you aim your crosshairs directly on your target and can hold your breath long enough to fire off two or three photos before exhaling, it does an excellent job of focusing and capturing the light. If you reduce the aperture to f/2 or f/1, you'll notice a significant difference. You'll need a tripod for number eight. In low light, even with a tripod, I don't think you'd get great results. br>I hope this information is useful to someone.

Landry Richardson

| Apr 04, 2021

I'm a newbie photographer who shoots with a Cannon Rebel T6 camera. I wanted to improve my depth of field skills. This lens is fantastic for portrait photography. pictures taken up close It is extremely cost effective. The final product is of excellent quality. If you're looking for a low-cost, easy-to-use lens to help you improve your photography skills, this is the lens for you.

Emory Ramirez

| Aug 06, 2021

I was completely blown away by this lens. The Canon f/1 is what I'm using. 2L and had the f/1 previously. 4 and simply wanted to see if the STM version of the nifty fifty was any better than the original. The lens now has a metal mount, which gives it a more professional appearance and a bit more sturdiness in the hand; it's still a little "plasticky," but at $125, what more could you ask for? I can 100% guarantee that when compared to the f/1, you will see little to no difference at all. 4. There isn't a difference of $200! The only difference is that you don't get a single half-stop more light. If you're on the fence about getting the f/1, this is the place to be. This lens or number four. This is the lens to get. It might not be as attractive as the f/1 in terms of aesthetics. 4, but you'll end up with the same stunning results. I wouldn't go so far as to say it's superior to 1. 2L, but I don't think you'll find you need to upgrade in any way unless you have a job that requires it. Remember to make micro adjustments to your lenses; this one was back focused, so I had to adjust it to -. br>br>6/26/18 UPDATE: I've had this lens for two years and stand by everything I've said so far! Because this lens is so light, I keep it in my bag and use it on my camera almost all of the time. Two years later, he's still as versatile as ever.

Aya Nguyen

| Feb 23, 2021