Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter, Canon FD/FL Lens to Micro 4/3 Olympus PEN and Panasonic Lumix Cameras
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Questions & Answers
For lenses with Canon FD and FL mounts, this is the correct adapter. Canon FL 50mm 1. I use it to capture the moment. The following is a list of the four settings on my Olympus 4/3 camera. Make sure you double the FOCAL. A 50mm lens is equivalent to a 100mm lens on a 4/3 camera. If the camera is set to manual or the aperture preference is selected, the lens will work with In order to use stop down mode, not auto mode, set the lens aperture. Here is what I hope will help.
Yes, it should work with the GH3. That camera has a Micro 4/3 mount and this adapter doesn't have this mount.
The only mode of focus available is manual. With one exception, Canon's FD lenses do not come with autofocus, except for one telephoto released near the end of the production run of FD lenses. My previous lens autofocused entirely inside the lens, so I assume it would work the same on the adapter, though I have never used one.
Selected User Reviews For Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter, Canon FD/FL Lens to Micro 4/3 Olympus PEN and Panasonic Lumix Cameras
An adapter that comes with no manual is available. It revolves around a ring, so there's no electric current flowing through it This is an obvious explanation. In fact, the ring is a feature, but you may not know what it's for or how it works. An example of this type of ring is a double-prong ring There is no clear purpose for the feature, which is why it is It is intended as a way to make it easier to mount the lens to the adapter, BUT only if you use the ring correctly. You can do it this way Using the ring, first twist the word "open" towards the ring. This means the ring revolves clockwise when facing the lens or counterclockwise when facing away from the lens If we were facing the camera, we would turn clockwise. By doing so, you prepare the adapter for the mount of the FD lens you want to use. When the ring, instead of being twisted toward "lock", is twisted before mounting the lens, there is a very high possibility that the manual aperture adjustment on the lens will not function once it is mounted (with a little skill, it might be possible, but it is Mounting the lens is as simple as matching the red dots and then twisting the lens clockwise (facing the camera) until it Once the ring on the adapter is twisted in the direction of the word "lock," it will be firmly locked. If you're facing the camera, you'll be going clockwise. The entire process of taking the lens off the camera must be reversed to remove it. The term "open" is used to mean "ready to accept or let go of the FD lens" and "lock" means "holding on to the FD lens. " Besides its primary function, the ring has a secondary purpose. Changing the aperture while the lens is mounted by twisting it toward the "open" position will result in opening the aperture in The settings on the lens will override the wide-angle setting. In the same manner, if the ring is set to "lock" and you accidentally mount a lens while the ring is in this position, you will almost definitely mistakenly assume that the aperture is broken, as the aperture will stay If you want to easily focus, you should set the adapter to "open" while mounting or dismounting the lens, and to "lock" when you are using it, unless wide open aperture is what you want.
A nicely designed and perfectly sized lens to fit Olympus EM-D cameras I have a Canon 5 and a Canon FD mount lens. For myself, I use the Tamron 500mm Mirror F8 Adaptall as an auxiliary lens to reach the distance I need to in manual focus The Canon FD adapter was used for two of them. I will focus until infinity is reached. Vegetting is not required and photos are excellent. **The manual stop-switch works by pulling a lever from the side A stop-down ring is available for Canon FD mount lenses as well, allowing you to manually zoom-in and out To take a proper exposure, close down the aperture. In order to insert the lens, one needs to turn the ring CCW when facing the camera toward the "open" position. It should be noted that in the case of an adapter with a long pin that will be inserted into the two legs of the lens' It goes without saying that you should change the lens aperture from "A". In order to stop rotating the ring after the lens is mounted, move it CW to the "locked" position This way. You'll get perfect exposures if you meter in aperture priority mode. In fact, I recently got a Pentax K to Micro 4/3 conversion for my K lenses because I liked this adapter so much. It's going to be interesting to see how that works with my "Bokina". Using fine old lenses on MFT with the option of not buying a new lens is a great way to utilize older optical workmanship.
I have read the attachment method described by Lou (second review on this product) and found the attachment of the adapter to be easy and both my FD lenses retain their full functionality after the adapter has been attached. It is important to note that using a full frame lens with a micro 4/3 camera will make your focal length double. The 50 mm f 1 on my camera. There is a proof in chapter 8 but I am not sure about the math behind it).
There is a slight amount of "play" in the mount when connected to an M4/3 mounting system on an OMd emulator There is a problem with number 10, but I don't mind it. The product is worth every penny that I paid for it. The great thing about shooting with legacy glass is that you have access to those high-end lenses for a fraction of the cost of a new prime M4/3 lens, especially those designed for FD mounts. Although you will have to give up autofocus, using my old prime lenses with FD mount is still a lot of fun. I would like to share some information with those who are I am very pleased with the quality of the images from my 28mm and my 40mm cameras In light of this, they are surprising decent and the 50 produces a very pleasing bokeh since it is now equivalent to 100mm.
Thanks. Given the problems some people have reported with it, I was a bit concerned. Having used it with my Canon FD lenses and extension tubes, I am happy to report that it worked flawlessly. All of the pieces fit perfectly and work as expected. Those who are considering purchasing should keep in mind the following On the pictures, you can see there is a ring that reads "lock <-" The following is a translation of the following Near the lens mount, there is an open space. When the lens is mounted, this lever is used to adjust the aperture after the lens has been Mount the adapter on the camera, then mount the lens. To set this ring open, turn it to "open". As you adjust f-, you can see the diaphragm close down as the ring is moved to the "lock" position. There are several stops on a When I am using the lens, I leave it at "lock" For the first exposure, it might be helpful to switch it over to "open" so that the lens opens completely for focusing and composition, then you can switch it back to "lock" to take the second exposure at the desired aperture. Put an end to it. In many ways, this is not dissimilar from some prehistoric times There used to be a lot of manual aperture lenses. My Olympus E-PL4 provides compatibility with my camera There are few things that could be simpler than PL1 - Make sure the camera is set to Aperture-. You should focus as normal and press the shutter button when you have determined the preferred exposure. I have had no problems with it. This balance is the key to the lens - The camera and lens combination is excellent, and the picture quality appears to be excellent.
Anyone who owns a collection of fd lenses would be well-equipped to select a lens It would be wise to pick one up.