Sekonic L-398A Light Meter Studio Deluxe III (401-399),Black
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This manual meter is very simple and almost foolproof. There is no need to replace the battery. There are no contacts to use to trigger a flash.
It isn't cadmium sulfide, because CdS only changes resistance in response to light and requires an external power source. These appear to be selenium cells, which generate a current with light and thus do not require a battery to operate. The issue is that this type of light meter is incapable of dealing with low light levels. I'd say it's best to keep it outside. It's a dependable light meter that's given me great exposures for years (as long as I know how to adjust for the scene's light/dark ratio).
A reflected spot meter is required for the Zone System. The L-Sekonic is a new product from Sekonic. This can be done at 758 meters, where there is a 1 degree spot.
L-Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Se Japan produced the 398A light meter. It's been in my possession for roughly 30 years. It still performs as well as the day I purchased it. I'm not sure where they're made these days.
Selected User Reviews For Sekonic L-398A Light Meter Studio Deluxe III (401-399),Black
Background information: I'm the proud owner of a Sekonic L-series keyboard. The Lumu light meter, a 758DR, and a Gossen Digisix 2 Above all others, this has become my favorite light meter. Why? In any case, the L- 758DR (really, they need to work on these names because I can't remember these stupid numbers) meters may be weatherproof, but I believe they are some of the most shoddy meters on the planet. The buttons stick, the buttons break, and the unit appears to be cheap for the price. The L- 398A is a solid product with a solid feel to it. Nothing to wear out or fall off because there are no sticky push buttons. A simple spring serves as the needle button on this. There's no need to replace any circuit boards. The only reason I have an L-grade is because of this. 758DR? I use PocketWizard to wirelessly sync my Bowens, but that's about it. That's a no-go as well because the spot meter never seems sensitive enough to read the shadows I point it at. What about the Gossen, then? br>br> I've heard a lot of people say they'd prefer that to the L-. 398A. It's most likely due to Ken Rockwell. The Digisix comes with a number of digital features, such as an alarm clock and a temperature gauge. But what does it matter? I can't tell you how many times the stupid button in a bag has been pressed, the alarm has been set, and I've been awakened in the middle of the night trying to figure out where the phantom beeping is coming from. I like that the Digisix reads some low EV, but the dial is set up backwards to how my mind works, which wastes seconds when you're trying to work quickly. I also like that the Digisix reads some low EV, but the dial is set up backwards to how my mind works. Maybe I'm the only one, but when I'm reading the dial and I'm on the third stop from a full EV, it takes a while for my brain to figure out if I'm increasing or decreasing time. The Sekonic is arranged in the opposite direction; As you move to the left, the apertures and speeds increase, making it much easier on my brain. The real issue is that you have to hold the Gossen in an awkward position to take your readings, and it's difficult to avoid affecting the light with your hand. It looks like it was made to go on a camera's shoe (which I do have). a new addition - to do), but the reflected meter mode is the only way to do it. The Sekonic was created to be held while taking a reading with only your thumb moving. It's far more comfortable. br>br>And what about the Lumu? This is a fantastic meter with a ton of features! But, if you're shooting film (which I assume most people who aren't cinematographers are), holding your phone upside down and flipping orientation between readings or autolock is a bit awkward. There's also the matter of the battery. However, if I need to sweep a backdrop in footcandles to check evenness, the Lumu provides a digital readout to the tenths, allowing me to get an order of magnitude more scientific on my scene than I ever knew I needed. In these situations, I actually prefer it to Sekonic. However, I prefer to use the Sekonic for general indoor and outdoor reading. I've ordered a Lumu Power, and that, along with this Sekonic, will be in my bag at all times (Lumu Power for low light, digital precision, and color temperature, and Sekonic for regular EV reading). The L- With long dead batteries, the 758DR will mostly collect dust and fall apart. The Sekonic's disadvantages are: br>br>
- EV 4 at ISO 100 isn't particularly sensitive, but it's more than adequate in my opinion. If you're shooting on a medium that requires precise metering (such as slide film), this isn't really an issue because your scene will require at least that much light to capture anything within useful settings anyway. If you're in a situation where you need to go below EV 4, mount the camera on a tripod and use a manual preset from an EV chart, taking reciprocity into account. Or, as the cinematographers for whom this device was designed would do, add lighting. The Sekonic then serves as a threshold for determining whether you have just enough light to shoot with sensible settings or if you should call the room candlelight and expose it to a low light setting by default. If you're shooting film in low light, you'll have to do a lot of experimenting to figure out what works best with your camera and stock. If you're using a digital camera, you'll want to keep this in mind. What does it matter? Man, crank up the ISO and chime it.
- Needle, analog: There's always the fear of damaging a needle, but based on reports from people who have been using these for decades, I don't think I'll be too concerned. My L- This thing requires 1000x the amount of care as the 758DR.
- Yes, it is ergonomic in size. However, for a shirt pocket, it can be a little fat and heavy. You'll look like a doofus if you have it swinging from your neck unless you're on set. You can also carry it in the fanny pack that comes with it. You'll be nerding it out in either case.
- Readings to think about: It's not something I'd put my faith in.
- Attachment for flat discs: How much I use it is still up in the air.
To measure low light conditions, a small baffle that is easily lost must be removed. The scale for measuring isn't clearly defined. All of my other meters measure one stop less than this one. Scales that are complex. br>br>The money was wasted. I'll keep using my Minolta Auto Meter II, which works like a Swiss clock and is much easier to read, despite the fact that it's 30 years old. br>br>Photographer with 50 years of experience.
This was purchased to replace one purchased by my father in the 1970s (at the very least). It's a reliable ambient light meter that's easy to use and precise. There are no batteries to replace, so you don't have to. Other meters I've tried have left me disappointed, either in terms of quality or design. This is an excellent example.
It'll completely change the game. I'm not sure how I got by without a light meter for so long. This has the potential to change the game entirely. I always assumed that a light reader was for film photography and that an over-exposure reader was for digital photography. the- I thought this was the best camera for digital photography, but I was completely wrong. L-Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Sekonic Se The 398A arrived today, and I've spent the last three hours learning how to use it (thank you, YouTube) and experimenting with it both indoors and outdoors, with and without the high slide, and in a variety of settings with a variety of subjects. The end result was absolutely flawless. I believe it is past time to bid farewell to in-laws. Say goodbye to camera metering in favor of manual metering. br>br>If you're thinking about buying a light meter, think twice. You'll never look back if you purchase one.
With my digital meter, I can get accurate incident readings. Because the area of my digital meter is only 7 degrees, I can't really compare reflected readings, but they appear to be accurate if you know how to adjust for scene conditions. In general, we prefer it to my digital meter, which requires batteries and has a long startup time. It's great not to have to bring extra batteries with you! It's nice to be able to see all of the shutter speed/aperture combinations by looking at the scale. This meter appears to be complicated at first glance, but it is simple to operate and provides a wealth of information at a glance. I only use the digital these days if I need a more spot reflected reading.
Its lack of batteries appeals to me. It took me a while to figure out how to use it, and my camera meter works just fine most of the time, but I've been surprised by what this meter tells me, and I've ended up with a better photo than my camera's meter.
great weightbr>feels great in the handbr>all dials feel really well madebr>satisfying sensory feedback while adjusting settingsbr>no batteries to replacebr>great aesthetic and conversation piecebr>.
The Norwood director was the first, followed by a studio S, and then the L398. The Norwood is still functional, the Studio S isn't a backup, and I find the L398 to be essentially the same meter with a few more user-friendly features. Yes, I've taken some bad pictures with these meters, but it's always been due to operator error. The meters are perfectly accurate and in sync with one another. These meters have accompanied me on long bike trips and for household portraits, as well as in the air and to the ground by parachute. They're easy to learn and operate, and it only takes a few days for them to become second nature. I've used a well-known brand with a battery and had the batteries die in the middle of nowhere at the worst possible time, but the Sekonic has never failed me. You will not be disappointed if you purchase one.
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