JEGS Engine Cradle with Wheels | Chevy Small Block and Big Block | Steel Construction | Black Powder Coat | 3” Heavy Duty Steel Wheels | 750 LBS Capacity | Storage Hardware Included | Easy Assembly
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There are several popular "small block" Chevrolet models, including 265 , 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350 , and 400 . A LT1 should fit if it's a variant of the 350 small block. JEGS can quickly tell you what cradles they have for your device if you call them on their phone. These shelves are great for storing blocks to engines and are easy to move between them. I have five of them.
There is no frame mount. The motor mounts go in the motor mount holes.
I believe it fits a size The two numbers 2 and 6 are equivalent. It is powered by a V5 There is no change from small block to big block Chevys. With a 6, I'm in the 6th percentile. The number is 2 in my case.
I'm being honest. That seems unlikely to me. It states in the description of the product that it is for small and big block Chevys, and that it will not fit/work on Chevy LS engine series. To ensure the safety of the cart, I recommend not modifying it. When I consider what my 4 cyl volks engine looks like, I say there is no way to "make" this item If you want to work on the bottom end, you can use an actual engine stand (the one you can bolt the motor to and spin it 360 degrees). In most cases they can be adjusted to fit pretty much any size and make of engine, since the bolts to plate on them are not application-specific.
Selected User Reviews For JEGS Engine Cradle with Wheels | Chevy Small Block and Big Block | Steel Construction | Black Powder Coat | 3” Heavy Duty Steel Wheels | 750 LBS Capacity | Storage Hardware Included | Easy Assembly
With this stand, you can easily use the LS motors at a much lower price than the LSx variants. It is possible to easily bolt up the LS motor on the stand by cutting the two front bolt holes off the motor mount plate. As of now, it has never given me any problems after I cut it just past the post weld. Due to the fact that the SBC motors are SAE and the LS motors are metric, you will need new fasteners. Bolts for the M10x1 motor mount and trans mount are used for the LS. 30mm is a good length to attach the cradle to 5 and 4. In just five minutes and five dollars with a cut off wheel/saw and fasteners from your local hardware store, you can make the LS variant 50 dollars cheaper and it will also work with it.
By cutting off the front tab of the block as suggested by other reviewers, work was done on our L59/LM7 block. This roller is very stable and rolls very well. You may use a standard crowbar to install casters by pressing against the star-shaped bracket Using a wheel as leverage point, gently hold retainers in place to prevent the stem from turning enough to tighten the nut. There is no need to remove the.
There are two of these for LS engines that I purchased. For the casters to work, the wheels need to be removed. I don't see the big deal here. If you're going to fit it to a LS engine, cut off the forward parts of the motor mount pads on the cradle and use one bolt from the remaining hole to the forward most motor mount hole on the LS (this will be obvious to you when you try it). There are no issues with the holes and pin on the back of the motor. I am unable to use the bolts that come with the cradle If you're talking about LS, you'll need to use metric ones. Those who have commented before me say It is a simple process to attach it while the engine is still hanging on the hoist. This is an excellent stand for the price!.
I decided to give this a try when I had to put an engine/transmission in storage. Although it is heavy duty, it has a bit of a wobble, at least until you attach an engine to When it has rock solid integrity, you can trust it. Since I didn't want to separate my engine from the transmission, I couldn't actually mount it with the bolts that came with it. Mounts for the motor mount are attached to bolt holes inside the motor mount, while mounts for the bell housing are attached to bolt holes inside the bell housing. To save time I just set the motor on the stand, with the transmission still attached, and tied it up with ratchet straps rather than remove the motor mounts. I was pleasantly surprised by how good this stand worked despite its low price.
As opposed to the old tire in which the SBC sits, I hoped for some kind of usable part to mount it instead of an old tire. I wish I still had the old tire. As soon as it comes out of the box, it's lacking a nut inside the frame, which makes it difficult It is impossible to use a socket on the rear caster nuts because they are close to the support. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and I paid for Chinese crap. I will cast my vote based on the money you give me. The test passed.
This is a great way to transport engines. I put this motor back on it after it was serviced, and then I put everything on it to ensure it would fit and align properly. As well as my flywheel, I was able to mount it easily. The stance is easy to control and the center of gravity is Having to unload it from a long low angle ramp, I actually managed to wreck the engine that this engine is replacing. pulley and water pump on the lower part of the old engine had been destroyed because it was on a normal engine stand. It is also possible that the crank was bent. the new engine the same way I did with the previous one without encountering any problems. In addition, it is very easy to stap.
This unit worked wonderful with that engine. With no issues, I was able to take out the engine, set it right down in the cradle, bolt it in, then bring it to my shop. In this case, I was able to handle the transfer myself, and the engine fits in the cradle perfectly. Being in this cradle ensures that you have a good view of the engine and that you don't have to worry about the sagging caused by.