Reese Towpower 65052 Front Mount Receiver with 2" Square Receiver opening
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Because of how it installs, I would say yes. I have a 2009 Suburban with a 6-inch aftermarket lift and have had no issues. If your truck is similar to mine, you may need to remove the black spoiler, as well as a small section of the front bumper cover. It appears to be more serious than it actually is. You can get a very tight and clean fit with a dremel if you take your time. This serves as a rod and cooler holder for me when I go surf fishing. It's fantastic!
We installed it on a 2014 GMC Yukon XL, and all of the holes were perfectly aligned.
Yes, everything you'll need is included in the package.br>
My winch is rated at 12000 pounds, and I've used it several times with no problems.
Selected User Reviews For Reese Towpower 65052 Front Mount Receiver with 2" Square Receiver opening
For a variety of reasons, Tite/Reese 65052 was chosen.
1. Receiver with the highest mounting height. Curt's version has a much lower slant to it. People I spoke with complained about the hitch catching on steep driveways, so they had their Suburban lifted three inches in the front to compensate.
2. Pull on the line. Because I intend to use it with a winch, the 9,000-pound rating gives me peace of mind.
3. Installation is simple with three bolts and a design that mimics a skid plate. A front-to-back bar is absent in the Curt version. br>br>Because this mounts up into the actual bumper area, it must be removed or cut. I had to cut the bumper after removing the wind dam years ago. Because I double-checked everything before making the final cuts, my installation took nearly two hours rather than one.
The air dam on my truck was long gone, so no cutting was necessary. The front license plate holder was removed, but it could have easily been left in place. The receiver pushes up a little on the air dam attachment point, as shown in the first photo. On my truck, it's not a deal breaker because it's made of plastic, but your mileage may vary. I used a floor jack to position and lift the unit, but if you don't have one, another pair of hands will be needed to lift it high enough to start the nuts on the bolts. Now it's time to put it all together. Thread the wire fishes onto the end of the bolts with the supplied wire fishes. You're ready to fish once you've pulled the bolt through the backing plates. The fish wires are long enough to fish the plate in first through the access hole and then pull the bolt through the plate, so I started with the back one. This is also true of the two in front. It was mentioned that the tow hooks would have to be removed. That isn't required. You can feed the plate in first, sliding it on the wire, and then pushing the bolt over top of the tow hooks with something to pry the plastic tabs around the top of the tow hooks aside. Do not attempt to feed it all at the same time. Pull on the wire to fish the bolt, which will be fed through the hole in the plate and drop down ready for the nut, then slide the plate over top of the tow hook. According to the instructions, tape should be used to fill in the gaps in the frame at the two front attach points. If the tape is rusty, use a small wire brush to help it stick to the frame and hold the washers in place. I used three washers on each side, but the tape wouldn't stick to one side, so I had to start over. Cleaning it and using good tape are the best options. The washers in the frame were held in place in the frame by heavy masking tape. Replace the other front attach point and repeat the process. So now all three bolts should be hanging down, ready to lift the unit into place. Make sure the heavy washers on top of the attach arm have the nubs facing up towards the frame. Laying on a mat, I worked one side at a time, lifting the floor jack handle enough to get the other nubbed washer facing up and the nut started. Then I went to the other side and did it all over again. To keep the taped spacer washers from falling out of the frame, I used a 3/4 deep well socket and a 3/8 drive ratchet. I used all three galvanized flat washers as spacers on the aft attach point to keep the splash shield clear. Put the nubbed washer on that bolt, started the nut, and used the ratchet to tighten all three. I thought they were tight until I used the torque wrench to tighten them up. To get to 75 feet, they had to do a lot of ratcheting. lbs. Keep in mind that the washers are concave and that the nubs must dig into the metal to secure the unit. It took me an hour and fifteen minutes to complete the installation without any assistance. If you still have an air dam, you'll need to cut into it as shown in the first photo. That picture was taken from a different perspective. In reality, the receiver and the frame are parallel.
To use a hitch-mounted trailer hitch, I installed this on the front of my 2011 GMC Sierra 1500. bike rack that is attached to the wall I frequently take kayaks and bikes on weekend trips, and it was becoming inconvenient to unload the bikes every time we wanted to remove the kayaks from the bed. This worked perfectly! br>br>Because I have access to a full shop with a lift, installation only took ten minutes. I'd say 45 minutes is a good estimate for the backyard installer. br>br>Construction is good, though I did notice that the receiver tube is slightly offset to one side; however, this isn't an issue for me, so it doesn't bother me. It had clearly been dragged and banged around because the box it came in was destroyed. Paint had chipped in a few places. This is a problem with the shipping, not with the product itself. I simply sprayed undercoating all over the place (which I was planning to do anyway). )br>br>If you're looking for a reliable source of information, look no further. This is a custom-built front hitch for your 1500 Chevy or GMC.
This Reese towpower 65052 front-end loader was discovered by me. It's incredibly easy to install a mounted trailer hitch with a 2 inch receiver. I have a 2013 Chevy Suburban SLT, and while I stated that no drilling is required, this is not the case. You will need to trim your air skirt and bumper. So, on top of the receiver, there's a 5 in wide plate (pictured), and you'll have to cut the bumper to make room for this flat piece of steel. I'll take some pictures later, but it doesn't look half bad, and it's relatively easy to do with a Sawzall. It took about an hour to complete the installation.
To. You'd have to cut almost all the way up to the license plate, about 1/8 of an inch close to the plate and half an inch into the lower deflectors. When installing the lower deflectors, I would recommend removing them first and then reinstalling them. With a vehicle lift and a stand to lift the hitch into place, it took me 2 hours to complete the installation. Because the bolts (3) must be installed first and the hitch must be lifted straight up.
The bolt-threading wires make installation a breeze. It was difficult to lift at times when I installed it by myself, but it would be very simple if you had another pair of hands. Cutting the front dust guard in the correct location was the most difficult part. TIP: Rather than trying to fit it through a square, cut it all the way to the bottom. Then you can replace the piece below it with a plastic weld - It only took a few minutes (with the help of a $10 plastic weld kit) and now it looks fantastic.
It's well-made, and it fits my Avalanche perfectly. I didn't use it, however, because it required front bumper modifications. It's currently on display in my studio. It's not their fault because the manufacturer clearly stated that some modifications would be required; I just didn't want to cut into the painted bumper.
It's a little heavier than I anticipated, which is a good thing. br>It was simple and quick to set up. It also came with a clever device for feeding bolts into the frame. br>I'll need to get an anti-rattle device, but that's to be expected. br>It's a perfect fit for my 2014 Yukon XL. br>I bought it primarily to carry an extra spare tire, but I also intend to use it to launch my boat.
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