CURT 31310 2-Inch Front Receiver Hitch, Select Ford F-250, F-350 , Black
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It was the right size for my 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5. 8 l v8
The front frame is different to accommodate the suspension, so it will not fit two-wheel drive.
I have an old body style 1997 Ford F250HD 4x4 that fits perfectly.
I don't believe so; I am confident that the frame from 1996 to 2019 is different.
Selected User Reviews For CURT 31310 2-Inch Front Receiver Hitch, Select Ford F-250, F-350 , Black
Fits Like a Glove! 3 Powerstroke, 4x4 For my 1997 Ford F350, it was a simple bolt-on. 3 Powerstroke, 4x4, sold as a cab and chassis at first. This was a simple task that I completed on my own. It's best to remove the grill for easier access to the mounting bolts, as you'll be able to reach all the way down to them. It's a little difficult to get wrenches in there to tighten them, but it's not impossible. If you remove the front bumper, you won't need the snake wire that came with it. Note: For the square tube of the hitch, the front plastic air dam beneath the pumper will have to be cut. This hitch cannot be installed without cutting or removing the plastic valence entirely. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off attachment. off wheel to create a space for the square tube to protrude. 'It worked perfectly! The two rings on the hitch for attaching the safety chains also interfere with the plastic valence, which surprised me. I didn't cut the plastic there, so when the rings are installed, they push up against the plastic. Only two small outward bumps are visible due to my decision to leave it as is. Loops can still be used. The height of the front bumper had to be re-adjusted, and that took some time. the setting up The height adjustment in the factory Ford mounting brackets varies quite a bit (this has nothing to do with the hitch, but it's worth mentioning). I'm a stickler for details, so getting the left and right sides of the bumper adjusted properly took some time. Before removing your bumper, I recommend taking measurements of how it was shipped from the factory. Overall, this is a great hitch that is both high-quality and simple to install. There's no need to drill or make any changes. It simply attaches to the factory bumper brackets with bolts.
Remove the front bumper completely during installation to save time and effort. Remove the four nuts holding the front bumper in place with a 21 mm socket, then remove the bumper. The fishing wire isn't required to install the receiver hitch because you can easily reach in through the front frame horns. Hold the receiver hitch in place with a couple of half-inch bolts/nuts inserted through the bumper mount brackets to keep the holes aligned and the hitch in place. Because access after the bumper is reinstalled is difficult, install and torque down the new side bolts (box wrench through the frame horns, socket for the nut) to their final position. Remove the temporary half-inch bolts and reinstall the bumper. Reinstall the bumper nuts just enough to allow for body positioning and alignment, then torque them down. It will take about an hour and a half to complete the installation.
I recommend this to anyone who owns an OBS Ford or an F super duty and wants a front hitch.
Once installed, this hitch is very attractive. Only the receiver is visible because it is tucked away behind the bumper. br>Here's an idea: Do not attempt to install it according to the instructions. Remove the bumper and secure it with the two sideways bolts before replacing it. It's so much simpler.
250 Although this front hitch will fit my 1995 Ford F-150, it will not fit my 1995 Ford F-150. On one side of the hitch, there was a gap between the hitch and the frame, which I filled with a 3/16 inch thick steel spacer from my rear hitch hardware kit. It's best to get rid of the stock bumper. I didn't like the idea of using fishing wire, but replacing the bumper was very simple, even for me. That, I believe, made the installation process go much more smoothly.
If I had read the instructions first, it would have gone on my 1993 Ford F250 4x4 in a flash, but I didn't. In addition to the two bolts that hold the front bumper on, the hitch has a third bolt that goes through the frame sideways (one on each side). I realized this after the first time I put it on, so I dismantled it and reassembled it properly. I could probably do it again in 15 minutes if I did it correctly the first time. It was supposed to take 20 minutes, but it took an hour for me to finish. I also like the hooks on the sides; apparently, Ford didn't think a 4x4 would ever need to pull or be pulled from the front, so they didn't include anything to tie onto. Curt Manufacturing is to be commended.
To keep side to side slop out while driving, I mounted a 4' x 18" underbody flatbed cargo box on a custom welded "H" beam and secured it to the safety chain hooks with turn buckles. I used it for a lower 48 drive of about 14,000 miles in three months and it performed flawlessly. I left the cargo box on the truck because it isn't noticeable for what I have inside, and I already have heavier springs from the snow plow.
I've gotten my truck stuck before, and without tow hooks on the front end, you have to crawl through the mud underneath to hook up chains, so that illuminates the tow hook issue, as well as strengthening the frame upfront, and I'm also going to do a movable winch setup now.