CURT 11567 Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4-Inch Receiver, Compatible with Select Toyota Corolla, C-HR
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I'm not sure about the LE, but this is what I put on our new hatchback. I am aware of the following: This isn't a towing vehicle, dude. It's intended for use with a bike rack or cargo tray.
It's the right size for my 2020 Toyota C-HR. HR and Corolla have the same chassis, according to HR.
Selected User Reviews For CURT 11567 Class 1 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4-Inch Receiver, Compatible with Select Toyota Corolla, C-HR
I have a low tolerance for poorly designed products as a mechanical engineer who has done a fair amount of design work. On my Ford Fusion, I had a Curt tow bar that I used with my Yakima Singlespeed bike rack previously. I was disappointed with that tow hitch when I installed it, and I can say the same about this tow hitch. br>br>Here are the things I don't like:br>- The holes aren't exactly where they should be. Instead of loading the product into a jig after it has been formed and welded so that holes can be precisely positioned, the holes are punched into plate steel, which is then formed and the pieces welded together. Because steel is never exactly the same batch to batch, and the forming process is almost always done by hand, hole locations will always shift during the forming and welding processes, resulting in a product with wide tolerances and a lot of variation.
- Why not punch the center hole in a location where the bumper beam no longer requires the tabs to be bent if you're punching holes into the plates? There is a gap there, but it serves no purpose. So what's the point of punching it twice? Why not place the center hole above the tab, eliminating the need to bend it? It makes no sense the way it is currently done, and it appears to me to be sloppy design work.
- What is the significance of the M13 designation for new bolts? Despite the fact that the OE bolts are M12, Curt provides a bolt with an M12 thread and an M13 head? What causes this to occur? I'm guessing they bought these bolts on Alibaba because they were the cheapest. The OE bolts have a nice lead on them as well, which helps guide and align the bolt correctly into the hole, but the Curt hitch bolts are just plain square bolts - They were most likely cadmium plated, but they lacked a built-in lock washer and a nose like the original Toyota bolts. So I was holding the hitch and bumper beam in place with one hand while maneuvering the other to load bolts in and begin to torque, but it never quite lined up properly. It might have been easier to locate everything else if there was only one hole and the rest were slots, but because they're all slots, there's too much play in the brackets, and as a result, one of the M13 bolts started going in on an angle and began to cross thread as I torqued it down. I came to a halt and removed it, replacing it with an OE Toyota bolt - On second thought, I should have used all of the Toyota bolts because they were of higher quality than the ones Curt provided. Here's something I despise: br>br>
- Clearly, no one thought about disassembly when designing this. Because the cross beam is smack dab in the middle of the gap between the bumper beam and the car frame during reassembly, the black rear fascia will never be disassembled again. It's almost as if Curt designed this product to take up as much space as possible when installed, so you'll never be able to get your hand up and behind the bumper beam to undo the spring clips on the black fascia panel again.
- If the trailer hitch had been designed with disassembly in mind, the cross beam would have been placed right up against the bumper beam instead of smack in the middle of the gap. If the rear fascia needed to be disassembled again, there would have been enough room to get your hand up and behind the bumper.
- If the rear fascia can't be removed, the bumper beam and tow hitch will never be removed. br>br>Overall, I'm not sure I'll buy another Curt product, and I'm not sure I could ever recommend one. I tried one on the Fusion and thought it was flimsy, and this one for the Corolla appears to be similar. It appears to be functional, but after installing it and seeing all of the flaws firsthand, it is extremely disappointing. Finally, now that the wire harness clips (which had to be disassembled from the black fascia) are no longer secured in place, I'm hoping they don't start rattling, buzzing, or squeaking. It was impossible to reinstall the clips into the black fascia because there was no room to get my hand behind the bumper beam. If this starts to make noises (like a rattling sound), knowing where the noises are coming from but not being able to fix the problem because the hitch prevents me from reaching the clips will drive me insane.
It'll look great on a C-shape. You will have no problems if you follow the instructional videos on YouTube. It comes with a sheet that explains how to properly tighten it (23).
The 2019 Toyota Corolla Hatchback is a perfect match for this accessory.
I strongly advise.
Fitting the bolts and aligning them can be difficult; you'll need a second person or something to hold up one end for you. br>br>Overall, it appears to be of good quality; I've used it to tow a trailer, pull a motorcycle, and haul wood, drywall, and other materials.
Installing it was a breeze. It was even possible for me to complete it on my own. Summer is going to be great!.
Fits Toyota Corolla Hatchback from the year 2021. It's simple to set up!.
For the 2019 Toyota Corolla Hatchback, the fit is perfect and installation is simple. Simply go to Youtube and look for the installation video.
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